fog lights on with high beams?
#21
Which tab are you breaking off, and which relay?
The foglamps give off quite a bit of residual light above the beam pattern of the foglamps and headlamps. This light could increase the backdazzle in environments where you need a "fog" lamp.
The foglamps give off quite a bit of residual light above the beam pattern of the foglamps and headlamps. This light could increase the backdazzle in environments where you need a "fog" lamp.
#22
I did the 'bent prong on the relay' trick on my 2002 Ranger, but to my knowledge, the Mustang is wired way differently. I'll be interested to hear if anybody has purchased the wiring harness shown earlier in the thread.
Brian
Brian
#23
I'm looking at the wiring diagrams, and the SJB has almost full control over the highbeam relay and foglamp relay.
Which relay are you bending a tab/connector, and which connector/tab is this? Pics and more information would be appreciated. The fog and high beam relays have 4 connectors: 30, 85, 86, 87 (standard Bosch setup). Which connector are we talking about, and on which relay?
Which relay are you bending a tab/connector, and which connector/tab is this? Pics and more information would be appreciated. The fog and high beam relays have 4 connectors: 30, 85, 86, 87 (standard Bosch setup). Which connector are we talking about, and on which relay?
#24
Well, here's the write-up on the 01 - 03 Ranger Fog Light mod...
http://www.generation-edge.info/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1644
Brian
http://www.generation-edge.info/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1644
Brian
#25
I'm looking at the wiring diagrams, and the SJB has almost full control over the highbeam relay and foglamp relay.
Which relay are you bending a tab/connector, and which connector/tab is this? Pics and more information would be appreciated. The fog and high beam relays have 4 connectors: 30, 85, 86, 87 (standard Bosch setup). Which connector are we talking about, and on which relay?
Which relay are you bending a tab/connector, and which connector/tab is this? Pics and more information would be appreciated. The fog and high beam relays have 4 connectors: 30, 85, 86, 87 (standard Bosch setup). Which connector are we talking about, and on which relay?
I bet someone finds a way around it.
#26
Well, here's the write-up on the 01 - 03 Ranger Fog Light mod...
http://www.generation-edge.info/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1644
Brian
http://www.generation-edge.info/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1644
Brian
It uses a foglamp relay and a foglamp isolation relay. The DIY tells you to bend terminal #2 on the isolation relay because that is the connection to the headlamps. If the isolation relay does not receive a signal, it won't break the circuit (NC = Normally Closed Relay) for the foglamps.
#27
INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS FOR
05 &UP FORD MUSTANG
HIGH BEAM FOG LIGHT KIT
1) OPEN HOOD & MOUNT THE CONVERSION BOX TO THE FRONT SIDE OF THE POWER DISTRUBITION BOX AT THE 10MM NUT, JUST BEHIND THE WASHER BOTTLE. IF THIS LOCATION IS NOT ON YOUR VEHICLE, THEN MOUNT THE BOX TO A CLOSE LOCATION FOR THE WIRES TO REACH THE NEEDED PLUGS. BE SURE TO CONNECT THE GROUND WIRE (SHORT WIRE WITH RING TERMINAL) BEFORE YOU MOUNT THE BOX, MAKE SURE YOUR WIRES WILL REACH THE NEEDED HARNESS OR OTHER WIRING!
2) REMOVE THE HEAD LIGHT WIRING ON THE PASSENGERS SIDE, CLEAN THE WIRING BACK FROM THE HEAD LIGHT SOCKET, AND INSTALL A SINGLE RED T-TAP ON THE YELLOW WIRE WITH THE WHITE STRIPE (OR THE HIGH BEAM POSITIVE IF YOUR WIRE COLOR IS DIFFERENT THEN LISTED). USE A PAIR OF PLYERS TO CRIMP IT IN PLACE. NOW PLUG IN THE GREEN WIRE FROM THE CONVERSION BOX TO THIS RED T-TAP.
3) REMOVE THE UPPER PLASTIC COVER PLATE WITH THE 6 PUSH SCREWS. UNPLUG THE FOG LIGHT SOCKET AND CLEAN THE WIRING BACK. PLUG THE OTHER RED T-TAP INTO THE TAN WITH ORANGE WIRE ON THE FOG LIGHT HARNESS. PLUG THE LONG LOOMED TAN WIRE WITH THE BLUE MALE CONNECTOR FROM THE CONVERSION BOX TO THIS RED T-TAP. USE A PAIR OF PLYERS TO CRIMP IT IN PLACE.
4) NOW RUN THE LOOMED WIRE WITH THE FUSE LINK TO A 12V POWER SOURCE LIKE A POWER DISTRUBITION BLOCK. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THIS BOX, ANY POWER SOURCE WILL BE FINE!
TUCK IN ANY EXTRA WIRE WITH SUPPLIED ZIP TIES.
5) CHECK YOUR WORK AND INSTALL THE LIGHT(S) AND YOUR DONE!
REMEMBER, IF YOU SEND US A PHOTO OF YOUR RIDE WITH THIS KIT INSTALLED, WE MAY BUY YOUR PICTURE FOR $10 IF WE USE IT FOR ANY FORM OF ADVERTISING ON OUR WEB SITE, OR TRUCK MAGAZINE ADDS!!
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, OR NEED HELP WITH THIS INSTALL
PLEASE CONTACT US AT: MrTailLight 419-947-6955
www.HighBeamKits.com
#28
It sounds like kit is a relay that uses the high beam power to switch the power to the foglamp relay causing the foglights to work with your high beams. Is there any delay or interruption of the foglamps when you switch between high beams and low beams?
#29
Yep, I think your right and if thats the case you would not be able to turn your fog lights off when the high beams are on regardless of whether or not the headlight/fog light switch is pulled out. You would have to add another switch to manually control them if you wanted to be able to turn them off separately.
#30
to make this happen you need a relay kit like metroplex was talking about, and to install an on off switch,
or a ford dealer friend said "you can just wire them to a fuse and run a power switch to the fuse" No idea what he was talking about but try the realy kit and a new switch
or a ford dealer friend said "you can just wire them to a fuse and run a power switch to the fuse" No idea what he was talking about but try the realy kit and a new switch
#31
#33
You got to read the fine print...
""KEEP IN MIND, WITH THIS KIT INSTALLED AS IS
ANY TIME THE HIGH BEAM LIGHTS ARE ON
SO ARE THE FOG LIGHTS IF YOU WOULD LIKE THE OPTION OF CONTROLLING THE FOG LIGHTS
THEN YOU CAN CHOOSE THE OPTIONAL INTERIOR HIDE AWAY SWITCH!
THIS HIDE AWAY SWITCH HIDES EASILY IN THE INTERIOR, AND GIVES
YOU THE OPTION OF WHEN YOU WANT THE FOG LIGHTS ON, OR OFF!
THE HIDE AWAY SWITCH IS SUGGESTED IF YOU DO ALOT OF HIGHWAY DRIVING
OR IF YOU WANT MAXIMUM CONTROL OVER YOUR NIGHT TIME DRIVING & VISION!
HIDE AWAY SWITCH KIT INCLUDES HIGH QUALITY SWITCH, WIRING AND NEEDED CONNECTORS
PLEANTY TO GIVE YOU THE BEST INSTALL POSSIBLE, BY MAKING IT THE BEST INSTALL POSSIBLE!!""
""KEEP IN MIND, WITH THIS KIT INSTALLED AS IS
ANY TIME THE HIGH BEAM LIGHTS ARE ON
SO ARE THE FOG LIGHTS IF YOU WOULD LIKE THE OPTION OF CONTROLLING THE FOG LIGHTS
THEN YOU CAN CHOOSE THE OPTIONAL INTERIOR HIDE AWAY SWITCH!
THIS HIDE AWAY SWITCH HIDES EASILY IN THE INTERIOR, AND GIVES
YOU THE OPTION OF WHEN YOU WANT THE FOG LIGHTS ON, OR OFF!
THE HIDE AWAY SWITCH IS SUGGESTED IF YOU DO ALOT OF HIGHWAY DRIVING
OR IF YOU WANT MAXIMUM CONTROL OVER YOUR NIGHT TIME DRIVING & VISION!
HIDE AWAY SWITCH KIT INCLUDES HIGH QUALITY SWITCH, WIRING AND NEEDED CONNECTORS
PLEANTY TO GIVE YOU THE BEST INSTALL POSSIBLE, BY MAKING IT THE BEST INSTALL POSSIBLE!!""
#34
You got to read the fine print...
""KEEP IN MIND, WITH THIS KIT INSTALLED AS IS
ANY TIME THE HIGH BEAM LIGHTS ARE ON
SO ARE THE FOG LIGHTS IF YOU WOULD LIKE THE OPTION OF CONTROLLING THE FOG LIGHTS
THEN YOU CAN CHOOSE THE OPTIONAL INTERIOR HIDE AWAY SWITCH!
THIS HIDE AWAY SWITCH HIDES EASILY IN THE INTERIOR, AND GIVES
YOU THE OPTION OF WHEN YOU WANT THE FOG LIGHTS ON, OR OFF!
THE HIDE AWAY SWITCH IS SUGGESTED IF YOU DO ALOT OF HIGHWAY DRIVING
OR IF YOU WANT MAXIMUM CONTROL OVER YOUR NIGHT TIME DRIVING & VISION!
HIDE AWAY SWITCH KIT INCLUDES HIGH QUALITY SWITCH, WIRING AND NEEDED CONNECTORS
PLEANTY TO GIVE YOU THE BEST INSTALL POSSIBLE, BY MAKING IT THE BEST INSTALL POSSIBLE!!""
""KEEP IN MIND, WITH THIS KIT INSTALLED AS IS
ANY TIME THE HIGH BEAM LIGHTS ARE ON
SO ARE THE FOG LIGHTS IF YOU WOULD LIKE THE OPTION OF CONTROLLING THE FOG LIGHTS
THEN YOU CAN CHOOSE THE OPTIONAL INTERIOR HIDE AWAY SWITCH!
THIS HIDE AWAY SWITCH HIDES EASILY IN THE INTERIOR, AND GIVES
YOU THE OPTION OF WHEN YOU WANT THE FOG LIGHTS ON, OR OFF!
THE HIDE AWAY SWITCH IS SUGGESTED IF YOU DO ALOT OF HIGHWAY DRIVING
OR IF YOU WANT MAXIMUM CONTROL OVER YOUR NIGHT TIME DRIVING & VISION!
HIDE AWAY SWITCH KIT INCLUDES HIGH QUALITY SWITCH, WIRING AND NEEDED CONNECTORS
PLEANTY TO GIVE YOU THE BEST INSTALL POSSIBLE, BY MAKING IT THE BEST INSTALL POSSIBLE!!""
#35
This is a WHOLE lot harder than you think. This is NOT like all the older Chryslers that used a special fog light relay to turn them off when the high beams were on (which ment a normal relay kept them on when ever the fog light switch was on).
Why?
Because the Smart Junction Box CONTROLS the lights. Not you! That little fog light switch on the dash? It is just an input to the SJB that says "Please turn on the fog lights if all the conditions are met and you feel like it. Please." The SMB also gets inputs from the other light swiches (headlights on/off and high/low beam mainly) then decides if the fogs should be allowed on. If they ARE allowed on (headlights off or headlights on low beam) THEN it will energize an output that goes to the relay box under the hoot and energizes the fog light relay (which, naturally, turns the fogs on!). But the signal never gets TO the fog light relay unless and until the SJB decides to send it.
Now, you CAN work your way around this. I have high/low beam 7" driving lights installed in my car where the fogs used to be. And I wanted FULL control of my fogs (on/off as well has high/low). But here is the rub: If you want to be able to turn your fog lights on via the factory switch (critical to me), then you have be able to intercept that signal BEFORE it gets to the SJB.
And you better have a VERY light electronic "touch" because the inputs to the SMJ are what is called "normally high". When the switch is in the "off" state, there is 12v sitting from the switch to ground. This 12v is provided by the SMJ and it can NOT source much current. So when you turn the switch "on", it just grounds the signal from the SMJ which "pulls down" the input to the SMJ to ground.
The problem arises if you pull it down a "little bit" by loading down this circuit. The input is not in the "off" position (high ast 12v) OR the "on" position (ground). Instead, it is floating somewhere inbetween. And that REALLY screws with the SJB's mind! It will do weird things like not turn off the assorted accessory power feeds after you take the key out of the ignition and get out of the car. Or turn off power to the ECU. So your battery will only last about 18 hours tops. If it is in good shape that is.
Ask me how I know...
The first interface circuit I built had input impedence measured in the kohm range (about 45kohms to be exact). Even with that much impedence, it was STILL enough to pull down the SMJ and feak it out!
For the second circuit, I went all out and switched over to CMOS circuit with REAL high input impedence (in the range of 100 Mohms or so). And I used a buffer to drive my output driver to make SURE I couldn't pull any appriciable current from the SMJ.
And that circuit has worked perfectly for the last year, 18 months or so. To actually control the lights I installed two new relays. One is the on/off relay and it is wired to my control circuit (which is wired up to the same input to the SMJ that is connected to the fog light swich). The second one is wired in series with the first relay and it's control comes from low beam feed from the head lights. If the input is off, then the power is fed to the high beams. If it is on (low beams are one and the headlights are on), then the power is fed to the low beams on the driving lights.
So, I can turn my "fogs" (which are now driving lights) on or off independently of the headlights (same as your stock fog lights) AND I can control the high beam/low beam of the driving lights with the cars stock high beam/low beam selector switch. The only thing I CAN'T do is turn the driving lights on to low beam with the main lights OFF. The driving lights will ONLY go to low beam if the main lights are on and on low beam.
Oh, while I was at it, I also wired up the "flash to pass" signal from the control stock to my interface circuit as well. So when I "flash to pass", all four of headlights fire up on high to make sure the person saw me!
What you want to do can be done. But's it not easy. If you want easy, install a new switch somewere and go that route. Otherwise you are going to need to fire up the old soldering iron and make a few careful splices in your car's wireing harness.
Why?
Because the Smart Junction Box CONTROLS the lights. Not you! That little fog light switch on the dash? It is just an input to the SJB that says "Please turn on the fog lights if all the conditions are met and you feel like it. Please." The SMB also gets inputs from the other light swiches (headlights on/off and high/low beam mainly) then decides if the fogs should be allowed on. If they ARE allowed on (headlights off or headlights on low beam) THEN it will energize an output that goes to the relay box under the hoot and energizes the fog light relay (which, naturally, turns the fogs on!). But the signal never gets TO the fog light relay unless and until the SJB decides to send it.
Now, you CAN work your way around this. I have high/low beam 7" driving lights installed in my car where the fogs used to be. And I wanted FULL control of my fogs (on/off as well has high/low). But here is the rub: If you want to be able to turn your fog lights on via the factory switch (critical to me), then you have be able to intercept that signal BEFORE it gets to the SJB.
And you better have a VERY light electronic "touch" because the inputs to the SMJ are what is called "normally high". When the switch is in the "off" state, there is 12v sitting from the switch to ground. This 12v is provided by the SMJ and it can NOT source much current. So when you turn the switch "on", it just grounds the signal from the SMJ which "pulls down" the input to the SMJ to ground.
The problem arises if you pull it down a "little bit" by loading down this circuit. The input is not in the "off" position (high ast 12v) OR the "on" position (ground). Instead, it is floating somewhere inbetween. And that REALLY screws with the SJB's mind! It will do weird things like not turn off the assorted accessory power feeds after you take the key out of the ignition and get out of the car. Or turn off power to the ECU. So your battery will only last about 18 hours tops. If it is in good shape that is.
Ask me how I know...
The first interface circuit I built had input impedence measured in the kohm range (about 45kohms to be exact). Even with that much impedence, it was STILL enough to pull down the SMJ and feak it out!
For the second circuit, I went all out and switched over to CMOS circuit with REAL high input impedence (in the range of 100 Mohms or so). And I used a buffer to drive my output driver to make SURE I couldn't pull any appriciable current from the SMJ.
And that circuit has worked perfectly for the last year, 18 months or so. To actually control the lights I installed two new relays. One is the on/off relay and it is wired to my control circuit (which is wired up to the same input to the SMJ that is connected to the fog light swich). The second one is wired in series with the first relay and it's control comes from low beam feed from the head lights. If the input is off, then the power is fed to the high beams. If it is on (low beams are one and the headlights are on), then the power is fed to the low beams on the driving lights.
So, I can turn my "fogs" (which are now driving lights) on or off independently of the headlights (same as your stock fog lights) AND I can control the high beam/low beam of the driving lights with the cars stock high beam/low beam selector switch. The only thing I CAN'T do is turn the driving lights on to low beam with the main lights OFF. The driving lights will ONLY go to low beam if the main lights are on and on low beam.
Oh, while I was at it, I also wired up the "flash to pass" signal from the control stock to my interface circuit as well. So when I "flash to pass", all four of headlights fire up on high to make sure the person saw me!
What you want to do can be done. But's it not easy. If you want easy, install a new switch somewere and go that route. Otherwise you are going to need to fire up the old soldering iron and make a few careful splices in your car's wireing harness.
#37
Why not just install some Sylvania Silverstars in your driving lights and a set of Sylvania Xtra Visions in the regular headlights. Then you won't need to do all this by-pass junk. It works for me, I hardly ever use my high beams.
I understand since my mods they have come out with a brighter hi-low beam in Silverstar for the H-13's. Enjoy........
Just my thoughts
#38
I've been wondering about this myself since i got the GT500 front fascia and my foglights are now at the bottom of the bumper..
does the GT500 also switch off Fogs when the high beams are on?
for a moment i assumed this was only the case with the GT, due to the headlight/foglight formation
does the GT500 also switch off Fogs when the high beams are on?
for a moment i assumed this was only the case with the GT, due to the headlight/foglight formation
#39
I've been wondering about this myself since i got the GT500 front fascia and my foglights are now at the bottom of the bumper..
does the GT500 also switch off Fogs when the high beams are on?
for a moment i assumed this was only the case with the GT, due to the headlight/foglight formation
does the GT500 also switch off Fogs when the high beams are on?
for a moment i assumed this was only the case with the GT, due to the headlight/foglight formation
I do not have the FSM in front of me now, but when I checked it, I don't recall seeing a separate wiring diagram for the GT500 foglamps so I assume they are wired the same.
#40
Well I don't really have a problem seeing at night, I got saleen hids and nokya yellow fog bulbs right now. I am going to swap the whole foglight housings out for the new piaa lamps that are made for our cars, and these are driving lights. I will keep the yellow bulbs tho. I tried a bunch of different bulbs in the fogs, and the hids make them all look like crap except the yellow. Me and almost all of my boys have yellow fogs in all our cars/trucks anyways. Kind of the nyc style lol.