DIY Oil Changes
Originally Posted by steevr
No washer or gasket on the oil drain plug. The end of the plug is flattened like a built-in washer.
Only thing I wasn't ready for when I pulled the plug is there is a reinforcement bar going east-west behind the oil pan (might just be there on the convertibles). The oil hit the bar for a bit. I just wiped it down afterward.
Only thing I wasn't ready for when I pulled the plug is there is a reinforcement bar going east-west behind the oil pan (might just be there on the convertibles). The oil hit the bar for a bit. I just wiped it down afterward.
Oh, and my dealership also gives a free automatic car wash (I definitely pass on that one!) and a sandwhich (that one I never pass up!).
Originally Posted by steevr
Now for the cool trick (thanks to Bob99b5's Ford Mechanic). You know how when you have an new empty oil filter, it takes a few seconds of the engine running to build up pressure?? The trick is after the oil change, you floor the accelerator pedal before you turn the key to crank the engine. Flooring the pedal kills the fuel injectors, so the car will turn over, but won't start. The cranking will help fill the filter with oil and prime the system. After about 5-10 seconds of cranking, I turned the key to off and released the pedal. Turned the key again and she fired right up with instant oil pressure reading on the gauge. Anyone think that every Ford Mechanic follows this process??.....probably not. That's why I'm glad I changed it myself. Thanks again Bob for the great tip!!!
That’s a great tip but what I do is pre-fill the oil filter before I install it and that way it has at least 1/2 qt of oil in it to begin with. The trick to that is to fill it slowly. Once the oil gets to the top let it settle, basically gets the air bubble out. It may take 4 – 6 times of slowly filling and letting it settle. You don’t need to fill it all the way up and thus let some pour out while you put it on but mark your 1qt oil bottle so you know when you’ve used 1/2 qt. 1/2 qt will not bring the oil to the top and therefore you won’t lose any when you put it on unless you tip it to far but the angle needed to install it will not let any of the oil spill out of the filter.
Some dealerships give you free oil changes for the life of the car if you buy it from them. I bought a Transam from Carl Black Pontiac a few years ago and had free oil changes. If you wanted synthetic oil instead you paid a minimal fee. Does anyone know of any Ford Dealerships that do the same?
Wal-mart has 5w20 in the 5qt jugs? havent seen it myself yet. I'll have to look again I guess. If I can find them ill buy a few jugs I always try to have the maintence items I need ahead of time so maintence gets done right on time.
Originally Posted by flashfearless
More like 6.5
However, as of late, I've been using Royal Purple which is imported and in quart bottles. The first time I changed oil with that, I only bought 6 (like I normally would) and it didn't fill it all the way up. I didn't release until that point that it was sold in quarts, and 6 quarts isn't quite enough.
Some dealerships give you free oil changes for the life of the car if you buy it from them. <snip> Does anyone know of any Ford Dealerships that do the same?
Speaking of, I gave my Mustang her 3rd oil change today. 15K miles, Motorcraft synth-blend and filter. Stang is pretty easy to change, but not as easy as my 95 Jeep Wrangler though. Having 24" of ground clearance is nice!
Thanks Rondosa. That Cndn. Tire Channel Lock Oil Filter Wrench (58-4509-2) is great (and it's only $20 Cndn).
The Ford Manual states that the Oil pan drain plug torque is 26 Nm (19 lb-ft). For the engine oil filter it also states, "To install, lubricate the oil filter gasket with clean engine oil and tighten until the seal makes contact. Using an oil filter strap wrench, tighten the filter an additional 270 degrees." That's 3/4 of a turn which will probably collapse it.
Because the K&N Performance Gold Oil Filter HP-2010 comes with a 1" nut welded to the top of the canister, it's much easier to install (not to mention replace). Yes, it's also a high quality filter.
As far as Ford's specs for the oil (Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W20-QSP [in Canada Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12] or equivalent) - I'll be using Mobil 1 5W-50 oil. I simply believe that it's superior for this application.
By the way, it felt like the oil filter on my last car was welded on, when I replaced it after 500 miles. They must really torque them down (without lubricating the oil filter gasket) at the plants . . . I'm sure that it's an inside joke
The Ford Manual states that the Oil pan drain plug torque is 26 Nm (19 lb-ft). For the engine oil filter it also states, "To install, lubricate the oil filter gasket with clean engine oil and tighten until the seal makes contact. Using an oil filter strap wrench, tighten the filter an additional 270 degrees." That's 3/4 of a turn which will probably collapse it.
Because the K&N Performance Gold Oil Filter HP-2010 comes with a 1" nut welded to the top of the canister, it's much easier to install (not to mention replace). Yes, it's also a high quality filter.
As far as Ford's specs for the oil (Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W20-QSP [in Canada Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12] or equivalent) - I'll be using Mobil 1 5W-50 oil. I simply believe that it's superior for this application.
By the way, it felt like the oil filter on my last car was welded on, when I replaced it after 500 miles. They must really torque them down (without lubricating the oil filter gasket) at the plants . . . I'm sure that it's an inside joke
Originally Posted by MrLatte
A good (and last resort) way to get those factory-tight oil filters off is to drive a screwdriver through and use that as a handle. I haven't heard of this technique used on these Mustangs however.
In 30 years of changing oil in old cars I've never done this (heard about it in the '70s).
I know they are really hard to get off from the factory, but a strap wrench is all you need.
Originally Posted by Verted
As far as Ford's specs for the oil (Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W20-QSP [in Canada Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12] or equivalent) - I'll be using Mobil 1 5W-50 oil. I simply believe that it's superior for this application.
Originally Posted by karman
...I know they are really hard to get off from the factory, but a strap wrench is all you need.
Originally Posted by jcopin
i use full synthetic which should be good for 10-15k but if i change at this pace will it create a problem with the warranty?
Here is the lab I use to test my oil http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ went 10k on Royal Purple 5w20 and it was pretty worn out.
Earlier somebody said that Motorcraft brand oil is made by Texaco/Havoline. Thought I'd chime in since this is not the case. Motorcraft oil is actually made by ConocoPhillips for those who are interested.
Originally Posted by jsaylor
Earlier somebody said that Motorcraft brand oil is made by Texaco/Havoline. Thought I'd chime in since this is not the case. Motorcraft oil is actually made by ConocoPhillips for those who are interested.



