Can the dealer align the rear end?
#21
Sorry I can't answer your second question about whether Ford can straighten things out without the use of an adjustable bar. If not, they should - with them picking up the price for a new bar if they can't play around with or adjust the old bar.
#22
Originally posted by StangNut@June 19, 2005, 6:49 AM
What springs did you use to only lower it 3/4"? Or did you cut them?
What springs did you use to only lower it 3/4"? Or did you cut them?
Funny these cars are so off from the factory. So far that is really the only issue I have had with the cars build quality.
#23
Team Mustang Source Legacy Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Thread Starter
So are there any techs out there that know if the rear can be adjusted?
I know an adjustable panhard bar can be installed, but I know the dealer isn't going to put one in.
If I take it in and prove that it's off center, what can they do to correct it?
I know an adjustable panhard bar can be installed, but I know the dealer isn't going to put one in.
If I take it in and prove that it's off center, what can they do to correct it?
#24
Originally posted by StangNut@June 21, 2005, 12:45 AM
So are there any techs out there that know if the rear can be adjusted?
I know an adjustable panhard bar can be installed, but I know the dealer isn't going to put one in.
If I take it in and prove that it's off center, what can they do to correct it?
So are there any techs out there that know if the rear can be adjusted?
I know an adjustable panhard bar can be installed, but I know the dealer isn't going to put one in.
If I take it in and prove that it's off center, what can they do to correct it?
Personally, I'm buying an adjustable one, and putting it on when I replace the LCA's with BMR's.
#26
Team Mustang Source Legacy Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Thread Starter
Mark,
If your rear was already off center, are you saying the springs made in worse? I've read where some people are saying the springs shifted the rear to the right. In my case (the left tire sticks out more than the right) wouldn't the springs make it better?
If your rear was already off center, are you saying the springs made in worse? I've read where some people are saying the springs shifted the rear to the right. In my case (the left tire sticks out more than the right) wouldn't the springs make it better?
#27
Hi Guys,
I owned a 99 GT that the rearend was offset by 1/2" to the passenger side. I took it to the dealer and they said they didn't know if they could do anything about it that it was a production issue! Well they got the body shop manager involved and he ended putting the car on a frame straightening machine! One pull was all it took! The rearend was centered and then it was off to check the alignment which fortunately was ok too! The boby shop manager said that was the only way to fix it!
I owned a 99 GT that the rearend was offset by 1/2" to the passenger side. I took it to the dealer and they said they didn't know if they could do anything about it that it was a production issue! Well they got the body shop manager involved and he ended putting the car on a frame straightening machine! One pull was all it took! The rearend was centered and then it was off to check the alignment which fortunately was ok too! The boby shop manager said that was the only way to fix it!
#28
Since you have not changed your suspension I recommend putting your stock tires back on and checking the gap on both sides. If it is still out have the dealer look at it. I know mine is off by 1/2" but that is because I lowered my car and have not put an adjustable panhard rod on it yet.
#29
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
I can't tell from just looking at my car if it's off either way. However, I did notice that the passenger side rear sits almost 3/8" lower than the driver's side.
#30
Shelby GT500 Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
I believe this is called "thrust angle" and the symptom is one wheel further to left or right from the other. I had this problem on my '97 and it was from worn suspension bushings. They were replaced under warranty and it solved the problem.
#31
Folks, a few things...
1) Side to side position of the axle on an '05 Mustang is not adjustable with factory components, as has been noted by some. You'd need an adjustable panhard rod.
2) Think about the way a panhard rod suspension works.... as the the axle travels from max jounce through normal ride heights to max rebound, the axle moves side to side because of the way the panhard is fixed to the body on one side and swings the axle like a pendulum when it goes up and down. The shorter the panhard rod, the more this occurs. Happens on everything from old beam axle Honda CRXs to GM F-cars to Minivans. At some point in its up-down travel, the axle will be centered, but that isn't necessarily the ride height your own car may be at when you're looking at it. I'd be willing to bet if you looked at this misalignment on a whole bunch of '05 Mustangs that were at the same ride height, you'd find that the lateral offsets were remarkably similar. Certainly when you lower the car, you will further skew the axle. There's a reason adjustable length panhard rods have been a common addition to 3rd and 4th gen F-cars.
3) Typical manufacturer ride height variability is +/- 5 to 10 mm per corner. If you happen to have one on the high side on one side, and the low side on the other, it can be 1/2 to 3/4 inch difference. This is because of variability in springs themselves, in the weight of options on the car, minor variation in suspension components, etc. Some ride height variability is typical on most cars, it's just that the average Camry owner isn't looking at it. And of course, when lowering cars, the closer you get the fender lips to the tires, the easier it is to "read".
cheers,
k
1) Side to side position of the axle on an '05 Mustang is not adjustable with factory components, as has been noted by some. You'd need an adjustable panhard rod.
2) Think about the way a panhard rod suspension works.... as the the axle travels from max jounce through normal ride heights to max rebound, the axle moves side to side because of the way the panhard is fixed to the body on one side and swings the axle like a pendulum when it goes up and down. The shorter the panhard rod, the more this occurs. Happens on everything from old beam axle Honda CRXs to GM F-cars to Minivans. At some point in its up-down travel, the axle will be centered, but that isn't necessarily the ride height your own car may be at when you're looking at it. I'd be willing to bet if you looked at this misalignment on a whole bunch of '05 Mustangs that were at the same ride height, you'd find that the lateral offsets were remarkably similar. Certainly when you lower the car, you will further skew the axle. There's a reason adjustable length panhard rods have been a common addition to 3rd and 4th gen F-cars.
3) Typical manufacturer ride height variability is +/- 5 to 10 mm per corner. If you happen to have one on the high side on one side, and the low side on the other, it can be 1/2 to 3/4 inch difference. This is because of variability in springs themselves, in the weight of options on the car, minor variation in suspension components, etc. Some ride height variability is typical on most cars, it's just that the average Camry owner isn't looking at it. And of course, when lowering cars, the closer you get the fender lips to the tires, the easier it is to "read".
cheers,
k
#32
Team Mustang Source Legacy Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Thread Starter
So since there's already a large tolerence allowed by the factory, what's the big deal if lowering the car stays within those tolerences?
Especially, as in my case, if there's the possibility that lowering it would improve things by bringing it closer to center.
Especially, as in my case, if there's the possibility that lowering it would improve things by bringing it closer to center.
#34
Originally posted by Machnu2@June 24, 2005, 8:02 AM
Hi Guys,
I owned a 99 GT that the rearend was offset by 1/2" to the passenger side. I took it to the dealer and they said they didn't know if they could do anything about it that it was a production issue! Well they got the body shop manager involved and he ended putting the car on a frame straightening machine! One pull was all it took! The rearend was centered and then it was off to check the alignment which fortunately was ok too! The boby shop manager said that was the only way to fix it!
Hi Guys,
I owned a 99 GT that the rearend was offset by 1/2" to the passenger side. I took it to the dealer and they said they didn't know if they could do anything about it that it was a production issue! Well they got the body shop manager involved and he ended putting the car on a frame straightening machine! One pull was all it took! The rearend was centered and then it was off to check the alignment which fortunately was ok too! The boby shop manager said that was the only way to fix it!
actually, ANY mods or alingments done to the car WITHOUT a frame alignment first is not a sound idea. any changes made to an out of spec frame alignment will compund any problems that already exist, or cause new ones, now that some of the components are non-standard. jackg 90seville 97k
#35
Originally posted by justgreat@June 25, 2005, 1:36 AM
this is probably the best advice given. with any new car or after any suspension mod, having the car put on a modern alignment jig with laser/computer controls is a must for the very best alignment and tracking.
actually, ANY mods or alingments done to the car WITHOUT a frame alignment first is not a sound idea. any changes made to an out of spec frame alignment will compund any problems that already exist, or cause new ones, now that some of the components are non-standard. jackg 90seville 97k
this is probably the best advice given. with any new car or after any suspension mod, having the car put on a modern alignment jig with laser/computer controls is a must for the very best alignment and tracking.
actually, ANY mods or alingments done to the car WITHOUT a frame alignment first is not a sound idea. any changes made to an out of spec frame alignment will compund any problems that already exist, or cause new ones, now that some of the components are non-standard. jackg 90seville 97k
suspension pulled to one side to allign on the '05 if it has not been in a wreck
the last gen mustangs had a different rear suspension design that made centering the axle a thing of chance (hence the frame rack and pulling the axle to align)
a modern frame rack (at body shop) could be used for checking track front to rear only, and if you have the adjustable bar, adjust it at that time
but a good tec w/ a 4 wheel allignment rack can check the track and adjust everything while up there
bottom line, IMHO, if your not racing or a big track time type person the rear track being out a bit from the factory is not going to be noticed by most
if for lowering, racing, looks or clearance (wider rims/tires) go for adjustable panhard/track bar
#36
it's always a good idea, imo, to take baselines before any mods are done. i'm not a big fan of modifying or cutting components on a car or using non oem parts. i always feel that i'm being the testing mule for the parts manfr and therefore, don't know what the results will be until it's too late. jackg 90seville 97k
#38
Team Mustang Source Legacy Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Thread Starter
Originally posted by over's GT@June 25, 2005, 6:24 AM
bottom line, IMHO, if your not racing or a big track time type person the rear track being out a bit from the factory is not going to be noticed by most
if for lowering, racing, looks or clearance (wider rims/tires) go for adjustable panhard/track bar
bottom line, IMHO, if your not racing or a big track time type person the rear track being out a bit from the factory is not going to be noticed by most
if for lowering, racing, looks or clearance (wider rims/tires) go for adjustable panhard/track bar
#39
Originally posted by StangNut@June 17, 2005, 9:48 PM
Was it evenly centered BEFORE you lowered it?
Was it evenly centered BEFORE you lowered it?
Late post, wasn't following with you, sorry.
Paul
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post