Battery Issues
1/22/08, 05:53 AM
#1
Cobra R Member
Thread Starter
Battery Issues
Ok.....Im on my second battery. Granted the car gets driven maybe once a week but the battery is ALWAYS dead. 
Do yall know of any attachment like RV's have where I can just plug the car in to keep it charged without having a trickle or charger on the ground?
I may need to go that route.
Put a plug in jack on it
Do yall know of any attachment like RV's have where I can just plug the car in to keep it charged without having a trickle or charger on the ground?
I may need to go that route.
Put a plug in jack on it
1/22/08, 06:09 AM
#2
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Not sure what the problem is - I have seen people blame the Shaker amp not shutting down, and others blame the anti-theft system, and still others say it is just a crappy battery. Mine too will die if it sits more than a week or two.
So I got a small 2-4-6 amp charger and while the car is in storage in the rear building I put the charger on it for an hour or so whenever I am out there.
I ran two charging wires from the battery down through the fender so they dangle below the front bumper. The hot side is fused, of course. No quite a jack, but it is convenient. I disconnect the wires when I start driving it again in the spring.
No problems since. Sad that so many people have had this issue...
So I got a small 2-4-6 amp charger and while the car is in storage in the rear building I put the charger on it for an hour or so whenever I am out there.
I ran two charging wires from the battery down through the fender so they dangle below the front bumper. The hot side is fused, of course. No quite a jack, but it is convenient. I disconnect the wires when I start driving it again in the spring.
No problems since. Sad that so many people have had this issue...
1/22/08, 07:19 AM
#3
Team Mustang Source
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Welcome to the club. I use a Battery Tender and it solved the problem when I'm not driving the car on a regular basis. There is a recent thread on here regarding recommendations on trickle chargers, etc
1/22/08, 10:26 AM
#5
Team Mustang Source Legacy Member
I have my car at the dealership now, for the 3rd time, because of this. First time they replaced the battery. Second time they wanted me to bring it in dead (towed it under warrantee program) and then they charged it and did a draw test on it during the day. This time, I drove it home Friday afternoon, then saturday around 7pm when to get in it for a quick trip, and the dash flashed at me for a few seconds, then it started to turn over slowly, and finaly started. I figured the problem was back, so I took the long way to the store (6 mi round trip instead of 2). I didn't dig out the battery tender though. Next day at 2pm I went to go out again, and it wouldn't start. 3 hours on the charger got it started, so I took a nice long highway ride to try and add some more to it (50 mi), then put the charger on it over night, and took it in first thing in the morning. I told them this time to leave it there for a couple of days and check it, I shouldn't have to plug my '07 car into a charger every time i come home. It's a daily driver, although I have had to leave it sit for a week at a time, and the last time I did, the battery was dead when I got home. This all just started for me in October, and I've had the car for 18 months now. I haven't done any recent updates/mods that would correlate to this new problem, other than letting the dealership do the 15K mile service (which I don't think was much).
We'll see what they come back with, but I'm starting to get p'oed with this.
We'll see what they come back with, but I'm starting to get p'oed with this.
1/23/08, 03:40 PM
#6
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I have my car at the dealership now, for the 3rd time, because of this. First time they replaced the battery. Second time they wanted me to bring it in dead (towed it under warrantee program) and then they charged it and did a draw test on it during the day. This time, I drove it home Friday afternoon, then saturday around 7pm when to get in it for a quick trip, and the dash flashed at me for a few seconds, then it started to turn over slowly, and finaly started. I figured the problem was back, so I took the long way to the store (6 mi round trip instead of 2). I didn't dig out the battery tender though. Next day at 2pm I went to go out again, and it wouldn't start. 3 hours on the charger got it started, so I took a nice long highway ride to try and add some more to it (50 mi), then put the charger on it over night, and took it in first thing in the morning. I told them this time to leave it there for a couple of days and check it, I shouldn't have to plug my '07 car into a charger every time i come home. It's a daily driver, although I have had to leave it sit for a week at a time, and the last time I did, the battery was dead when I got home. This all just started for me in October, and I've had the car for 18 months now. I haven't done any recent updates/mods that would correlate to this new problem, other than letting the dealership do the 15K mile service (which I don't think was much).
We'll see what they come back with, but I'm starting to get p'oed with this.
We'll see what they come back with, but I'm starting to get p'oed with this.
Same issue here. I had the Car for 12 months and then it would not start after sitting one week...I had to use the battery charger as well. I do not understand this. I have the shaker 500 and the anti theft. I noticed we were to get a higher amp battery with the anti theft option...I do not think I have the higher amp battery...Not sure if we got hosed on this on not...But, the battery sucks if you leave it for more that 5 to 7 days...Now I leave it for 3 days and the battery is almost dead...I will take it in for service soon and get them to look into it as well as my still leaky brake fluid....
1/24/08, 08:06 AM
#7
Cobra R Member
Thread Starter
Shaker 500 and anti-theft here too!! Maybe thats the common denominator?
I didnt think of turning the radio off prior to shut off.
I searched and read an article from Motor Trend about battery chargers.
They liked the CTEK 3300. Rain/snow proof and has a few wires to connect it up easily. So I ordered one.
I 'll let ya know how it works.
I didnt think of turning the radio off prior to shut off.
I searched and read an article from Motor Trend about battery chargers.
They liked the CTEK 3300. Rain/snow proof and has a few wires to connect it up easily. So I ordered one.
I 'll let ya know how it works.
1/24/08, 05:15 PM
#8
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
This post is taken from an earlier thread, that I submitted.
Once again ! The batteries are not the problem. It's the microprocessors/computer modules, that are responsible for draining them.
According to the latest TSB. a fully charged battery can last up to 30 days or longer. However if the vehicle has only been driven for short distances, running only at idle while in storage, and or sitting for more than 7-10 day periods. This will not be enough to maintain a fully charged battery, thus shortening battery life.
In addition. the alternator requires at least 1500 RPM's or more, and up to 2 hours of driving. in order to fully restore a deeply discharged battery.
That being said. the only solution for those who neither run their vehicles very often, due from lack of use, and aren't driven long enough. Are recommended to run battery tender/trickle chargers, in order to maintain fully charged batteries !
According to the latest TSB. a fully charged battery can last up to 30 days or longer. However if the vehicle has only been driven for short distances, running only at idle while in storage, and or sitting for more than 7-10 day periods. This will not be enough to maintain a fully charged battery, thus shortening battery life.
In addition. the alternator requires at least 1500 RPM's or more, and up to 2 hours of driving. in order to fully restore a deeply discharged battery.
That being said. the only solution for those who neither run their vehicles very often, due from lack of use, and aren't driven long enough. Are recommended to run battery tender/trickle chargers, in order to maintain fully charged batteries !
1/24/08, 05:39 PM
#9
Team Mustang Source Legacy Member
m05fastbackGT, that might look good in print, but is not the problem here. My car is 18 months old, I drive the same route every day (30 minutes to an hour each way), and have had no problems with my battery or charging up until November, more than 16 months after I got the car. They replaced the battery with a brand new unit, and I went back to my daily commute. Friday I drove home in the afternoon, and parked the car in the driveway, just like always. Saturday afternoon I went to get into my car for a quick run to the store, which 2 months ago was never a problem, and the battery was drained enough where when I first turned the key to start, all the interior and dash lights flashed several times before the starter engaged and s-l-o-w-l-e-y started to crank the engine. I kept at it and it actually did start, but the next day it was too dead to start the car again.
The dealership found that my Ford Nav system wasn't completely shutting off, it was periodically flashing back on (the button lights would flicker every couple of minutes they said), and the overall draw with the car all shut off was .5Amps, where the manuals all say it should be at .05Amps. The strange thing is this started in November, but I've had the Nav system in the car since May, and hadn't made any changes to any of the programming, wiring, etc. since then.
Also, the 1500 rpms to provide a charge isn't correct, either. Test it out yourself. Throw a meter on your battery with the car off. Should get in the neighborhood of 12-13 Volts. Then start your car and let it settle into idle, and do it again. You'll get something over 14 volts, even at idle. I've got underdrive pullies on my car, and I get 14+ volts at idle. Check Amps the same way, you'll see that even at idle, your car is providing a charge to the battery. While short trips to the corner market won't help charge up a drained battery, my 45 minute afternoon commute last friday (which was not at idle most of the time) should have been more than enough to put more of a charge on it than it used up, yet I almost couldn't start the car 26 hours later.
As for getting my problem fixed, since Ididn't buy the nav at a Ford dealer and it didnt' come with the car, they won't fix it. What I'm going to have to do is put my shaker 500 back in for a while, and see if the problem persists, then get them to fix it under that way. I'll also send the nav unit out on my own dime to get checked out, just to make sure that really isn't the problem, however I would think if it was, it would have manifested itself immediately, not 6 months later.
The dealership found that my Ford Nav system wasn't completely shutting off, it was periodically flashing back on (the button lights would flicker every couple of minutes they said), and the overall draw with the car all shut off was .5Amps, where the manuals all say it should be at .05Amps. The strange thing is this started in November, but I've had the Nav system in the car since May, and hadn't made any changes to any of the programming, wiring, etc. since then.
Also, the 1500 rpms to provide a charge isn't correct, either. Test it out yourself. Throw a meter on your battery with the car off. Should get in the neighborhood of 12-13 Volts. Then start your car and let it settle into idle, and do it again. You'll get something over 14 volts, even at idle. I've got underdrive pullies on my car, and I get 14+ volts at idle. Check Amps the same way, you'll see that even at idle, your car is providing a charge to the battery. While short trips to the corner market won't help charge up a drained battery, my 45 minute afternoon commute last friday (which was not at idle most of the time) should have been more than enough to put more of a charge on it than it used up, yet I almost couldn't start the car 26 hours later.
As for getting my problem fixed, since Ididn't buy the nav at a Ford dealer and it didnt' come with the car, they won't fix it. What I'm going to have to do is put my shaker 500 back in for a while, and see if the problem persists, then get them to fix it under that way. I'll also send the nav unit out on my own dime to get checked out, just to make sure that really isn't the problem, however I would think if it was, it would have manifested itself immediately, not 6 months later.
1/25/08, 12:24 AM
#10
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
m05fastbackGT, that might look good in print, but is not the problem here. My car is 18 months old, I drive the same route every day (30 minutes to an hour each way), and have had no problems with my battery or charging up until November, more than 16 months after I got the car. They replaced the battery with a brand new unit, and I went back to my daily commute. Friday I drove home in the afternoon, and parked the car in the driveway, just like always. Saturday afternoon I went to get into my car for a quick run to the store, which 2 months ago was never a problem, and the battery was drained enough where when I first turned the key to start, all the interior and dash lights flashed several times before the starter engaged and s-l-o-w-l-e-y started to crank the engine. I kept at it and it actually did start, but the next day it was too dead to start the car again.
The dealership found that my Ford Nav system wasn't completely shutting off, it was periodically flashing back on (the button lights would flicker every couple of minutes they said), and the overall draw with the car all shut off was .5Amps, where the manuals all say it should be at .05Amps. The strange thing is this started in November, but I've had the Nav system in the car since May, and hadn't made any changes to any of the programming, wiring, etc. since then.
Also, the 1500 rpms to provide a charge isn't correct, either. Test it out yourself. Throw a meter on your battery with the car off. Should get in the neighborhood of 12-13 Volts. Then start your car and let it settle into idle, and do it again. You'll get something over 14 volts, even at idle. I've got underdrive pullies on my car, and I get 14+ volts at idle. Check Amps the same way, you'll see that even at idle, your car is providing a charge to the battery. While short trips to the corner market won't help charge up a drained battery, my 45 minute afternoon commute last friday (which was not at idle most of the time) should have been more than enough to put more of a charge on it than it used up, yet I almost couldn't start the car 26 hours later.
As for getting my problem fixed, since Ididn't buy the nav at a Ford dealer and it didnt' come with the car, they won't fix it. What I'm going to have to do is put my shaker 500 back in for a while, and see if the problem persists, then get them to fix it under that way. I'll also send the nav unit out on my own dime to get checked out, just to make sure that really isn't the problem, however I would think if it was, it would have manifested itself immediately, not 6 months later.
The dealership found that my Ford Nav system wasn't completely shutting off, it was periodically flashing back on (the button lights would flicker every couple of minutes they said), and the overall draw with the car all shut off was .5Amps, where the manuals all say it should be at .05Amps. The strange thing is this started in November, but I've had the Nav system in the car since May, and hadn't made any changes to any of the programming, wiring, etc. since then.
Also, the 1500 rpms to provide a charge isn't correct, either. Test it out yourself. Throw a meter on your battery with the car off. Should get in the neighborhood of 12-13 Volts. Then start your car and let it settle into idle, and do it again. You'll get something over 14 volts, even at idle. I've got underdrive pullies on my car, and I get 14+ volts at idle. Check Amps the same way, you'll see that even at idle, your car is providing a charge to the battery. While short trips to the corner market won't help charge up a drained battery, my 45 minute afternoon commute last friday (which was not at idle most of the time) should have been more than enough to put more of a charge on it than it used up, yet I almost couldn't start the car 26 hours later.
As for getting my problem fixed, since Ididn't buy the nav at a Ford dealer and it didnt' come with the car, they won't fix it. What I'm going to have to do is put my shaker 500 back in for a while, and see if the problem persists, then get them to fix it under that way. I'll also send the nav unit out on my own dime to get checked out, just to make sure that really isn't the problem, however I would think if it was, it would have manifested itself immediately, not 6 months later.
As for testing the voltage on my Stang. I took my 05GT to an independent garage, who specializes in Automotive Electronics. After running an amp meter for over an hour, with the vehicle completely shut down. The results were .01 milliamps. Which is well under the normal 20-30 milliamp current draw, specified under the workshop manual. Also the amps were between .030-.040 = 12.7 volts.
However I would still end up with dead batteies, if the vehicle sat for more than 7-10 day periods. But ever since running a battery tender.
I haven't experienced any battery issues, in almost 2 years.
All I can say...Is if you weren't experiencing any battery issues, before installing your NAV system. There's a pretty good chance, that may be your problem.
I would definitely recommend, re-installing your shaker 500 and then see what happens. And if the problem persists. It's just as you said, the dealer can then fix it under warranty.
In the meantime, I would also recommend you look over TSB 07-5-13
1/26/08, 06:16 PM
#11
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Mine had been giving me intermittent trouble during this (my second winter's) storage. All was well with weekly start ups until this past weekend. It's now completely dead. The car is 19 months old with 9,700 miles. Anyone know what the battery warranty is? Are they going to give me a new one for free in the spring, or will I need to pay a pro-rate??
1/28/08, 05:52 PM
#13
I just had to replace my battery too. Less than 3 years old and only 43k miles. I have the Shaker 500 and Anti-Theft package....hhhmmmm. I'm surprised at how soon this battery failed me. The car is driven at least 4 times a week.
The original battery was the standard Mustang issue...the new one is an upgraded Motorcraft BXT 40...wonder how long this one will last?
The original battery was the standard Mustang issue...the new one is an upgraded Motorcraft BXT 40...wonder how long this one will last?
1/29/08, 08:04 AM
#14
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Just for reference, my 06, purchased in April 06 with Shaker 500 and the Anti Theft System, has had no problems and still fires up immediately. Its my daily driver also.
I HAVE heard that the anti theft system will drain the battery, but I have had no problems with it thus far.
I HAVE heard that the anti theft system will drain the battery, but I have had no problems with it thus far.
1/29/08, 08:35 AM
#15
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Part of the problem I think is all the crap they put on them these days. My 1982 G.T. had a four speed, power brakes, steering, am/fm cassette and not much else. Nav systems, theft systems, Shaker radios, they all make a draw and a source for potential headaches. I wish Ford would get back to basics with these cars. In 1982, they were supposed to be simple, bare bones fast cars. And relatively inexpensive. All that added on junk just makes them cost over thirty grand today. C'mon Ford, give us something simple. I'm not talking old technology, just eliminate nav systems, power everything, heated seats, and other b.s. Just a bare bones musclecar.
1/29/08, 10:35 AM
#16
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I've had a battery issue once. The car had sat about 2 weeks without use and the batt was low enough not to flip the motor. It has happened only once and as I travel lots leaving the car for 10 days - 2 weeks is pretty normal. I have the Shaker500 and anti-theft ("Hey, we can't steal this car, battery's dead!" - wow! I guess it works.) It's possible that my alarm had gone off and although it's supposed to reset itself may have some lingering batt drain.
1/30/08, 10:08 AM
#17
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Do you have the active alarm with a mobile tracking device? My car was doing the same as yours, battery dead after a week or 2. Had it in the first time and they just replaced the battery saying that I must have just gotten a bad one. Happened again about 5 months down the road so I took it back again. This time they went through it alittle more thoroughly and found that the mobile tracking device was drawing more miliamps than it should and that was killing my battery. They swapped out my unit for a different one and problem solved. Havent had any issues since then.
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2/1/08, 05:32 AM
#18
Mach 1 Member
i usually park my 06 for the winter and the battery has died before. i took out one of the fuses i think #56 in the fuse box under the hood. this controls the radio and such. i can drive without clock, radio, etc. but it seems to have helped control the dead battery issue. when i took the fuse out for the winter, the car started up after about 4 months of sitting. not the perfect fix but maybe temp.
2/1/08, 12:37 PM
#19
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Since I've had my car I've driven it daily but have left in the garage for periods of two weeks straight when I was gone each year on vacation. It had no problems starting up after the two weeks of inactivity. I only have the Shaker 500 and no active anti-theft.
My old '98 Mustang had an aftermarket alarm system and the battery would be dead in two weeks of it sitting without being driven with the alarm enabled.
My old '98 Mustang had an aftermarket alarm system and the battery would be dead in two weeks of it sitting without being driven with the alarm enabled.
2/1/08, 10:47 PM
#20
Shelby GT500 Member
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I got new battery for my 2005 V6 Mustang my die after 2 1/2 years old and my Mustang has over 40,000 miles on it and I had pay $122.00 for new Motorcraft from the dealership.