Flyinlow

Ziebart is different than the typical undercoating that dealers do.

If you are on the coast (literally) or on an island, you definitely need some type of extra rust protection. I've been to Florida many times and have actually many worse rusted out vehicles there than in Minnesota.

Dusty1

I live 20 miles from the Atlantic, so I'm planning to get rustproofing. I'm also getting it for sound-proofing. Had it done on the F150, along with the paint and leather protection program.

tryon

Recently had to reposition the exhaust and had the chance to check the underbody at the same time.

I had the impression of very poor paintwork especially in the wheelhouse of my 07 model. The axel appears only rusty cheap to me.

Does it make sense to do an additional undercoating even after 2 years?

metroplex

We've always paid the $250 or so to have the underbody coated with the undercoating until I bought the Mustang. They wanted ~$250 for JUST the undercoating which is normally part of a full sound deadening package. What killed the deal was that they said it was outsourced to another vendor that does it - I didn't want my pony being handled by an unknown 3rd party after it came from Flat Rock, so no deal. Plus I learned that the black sticky stuff is really just for sound deadening and NOT corrosion resistance.

What is more disappointing is that Ford didn't use any paint on the underbody. It's just the galvanized/hot dipped metal with a few layers of corrosion resistant coatings - no paint where the customer can't see it. Corrosion protection technology has progressed but I STILL see 2003-2005 Model Year Fords rusting away, so much for that technology.

I ended up painting the underbody, wheel wells, and exhaust with Rustoleum semi-gloss black. T409SS is strong and durable, but will rust through after 7-8 years of winter driving.

Arkady001

I got the Ziebart as standard - apparently all cars destined for Europe have this as standard - some form of undercoating is mandatory for European-manufactured vehicles. We use a lot of salt here in the Winter and even though I'll be driving it as little as possible at this time of year, even on dry days it gets covered in horrible, corrosive clag...
Mine cost me nothing extra. It does look like it was sprayed on a bit haphazardly - even the rear shocks have some overspray on them - not a drama as they'll be coming off in favour of the Eibach Pro-S kit that's going on in January. But on the plus side it does look fairly evenly applied across the whole vehicle...

metroplex

What does Ziebart use for protecting the underbody?

It says that the concept of Ziebarting has declined due to advances in corrosion protection:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ziebart

This is the first I have heard of mandatory rust proofing in Europe? I know Audi/BMW have 10+ year corrosion warranties but I figured it was due to their use of aluminium, magnesium, titanium, and other alloys for body panels.

Arkady001

Nah...we have a BMW dealer across the road from where I live and after I posted that last, I double-doubted myself for a moment and popped across the road to talk to the receptionist - who's a friend of my gilfriend - she confirmed it. All European cars have to have underbody rust-proofing as standard, not as an optional extra...I guess we just pay more on the sticker price to account for it - so It's not exactly 'free'.
Bodies are treated with an advanced galvanising that inhibits rust on the insides of body panels where steel is used; aluminium panels also have an interior treatment.

Looking at the Ziebarting on the Bullitt, it looks to be the same as is on my 2000 Cougar V6. Some kind of 'soft' bitumen-based paint. If you dig it with a thumbnail it leaves a slight depression.

metroplex

Interesting. I used to live near their Troy Headquarters but never gave it much thought to utilize their services.

Cavero

I live in VA, so no. But when my first car in NY had rust so bad you could stick your hand up inside the door, I wich somebody had at one point. Actually pretty handy when the manual window mechanism broke and I had to put the window back up.

Never wanting that to happen to my stang, I'd suck up the $100-150 to get it done to a northern car. You can save that much money easily over a month if you bring your lunch to work instead of buying it at the cafeteria, if your work has a cafeteria. Or something similar. I do just that when I need to start saving $$$ in my day-to-day budjet. Plus rust free cars up north sell for a LOT more than a car thats even starting to see corrosion.

metroplex

It's not the cost that is the problem, it's whether you are getting the proper protection. Is Ziebart the BEST stuff to get?

ford4v429

the pics are now defunct, but heres a link to the thread on mine back in 06- tore it apart with 300 miles on it to seal everything up...theres descriptions of the bad spots I found(by 'bad' meaning areas missed)...biggest concern on all three of ours is the flap in front of rear tire having a gap at the top(havent checked the 09 yet, but havent driven it yet either) I'll try to find pics to repost

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=428745

might be some stuff to look ast in there. I'm not a big fan of undercoating, but 3M Fast-N-Firm seamsealer over the gaps in wheelwell panels, then scuff and some roll-on bedliner aint too bad...warning- bedliner will lift paint if you cake it on too heavy...thin coats only.

I dont like undercoat long term as Ive stripped it off before and seen the rust sealed underneath- it can be so thick you cant see any damage till it rots and falls off. the bedliner stuff is more like that stone-chip rubbery stuff they used to spray on lower panels- thick enough to seal, yet will still blister if rust gets under