2007 v6 mustang cranks no start
2/20/22, 04:42 PM
#1
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2007 v6 mustang cranks no start
So, on my original post I couldbt get it to start, I figured out that it was an issue of me forgetting a seat on the cylinder 2 injector, I had it running for about a day or so, and then it died on the road, sounded just fine then everything suddenly stopped, now its making this noise:
2/20/22, 05:15 PM
#2
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Howdy, welcome to the forums!
Your video cut off a bit early, I suspect... but still I think I have enough to ask...
What the heck is goin' on with those needles? Every single one of them went negative right as the sputter happened. This makes me think there is a short/ground issue with the wiring.
You need to get the shop manual for your particular year so you can go through the 'Engine cranks but does not start' diagnostic procedures. The two I know of online are incomplete regarding the diagnostics, some of them are there, and some of them... well, aren't. They just didn't scan those. If you can't get the manual, or are simply not in the mood to chase down electrical stuff, you might have to submit the car to a mechanic to do the work.
Now.. the problem is your car is not stock. That is a *huge* issue with diagnosing anything. Mods screw things up, no advice is helpful when a mod may throw a monkey wrench in the works. My advice is to put it back stock, upload the stock tune to it, and start over from there. You can put the mods back when you get the basic stock setup running. Otherwise, you need to be a tuner with a full laptop setup and not use that little block device to fix it.
I would have liked to hear the engine turn over a bit longer, to be honest, to see if the compression sounded right. That stutter messed up the turning sounds enough I can't tell if it was smooth or not. If it's rough, or trying to retrograde or such, the timing might be off, like you jumped a tooth somewhere, but one would ordinarily think the crank/cam correlation code would happen.
The fact that it stuttered at all means it wanted to start, so the computer ostensibly sees all the sensors it needs to and thinks they're ok, seems...
I'm sure that's not the exact advice you were hoping for, but that's what I got. Good luck, and hope it helps anyway.
Your video cut off a bit early, I suspect... but still I think I have enough to ask...
What the heck is goin' on with those needles? Every single one of them went negative right as the sputter happened. This makes me think there is a short/ground issue with the wiring.
You need to get the shop manual for your particular year so you can go through the 'Engine cranks but does not start' diagnostic procedures. The two I know of online are incomplete regarding the diagnostics, some of them are there, and some of them... well, aren't. They just didn't scan those. If you can't get the manual, or are simply not in the mood to chase down electrical stuff, you might have to submit the car to a mechanic to do the work.
Now.. the problem is your car is not stock. That is a *huge* issue with diagnosing anything. Mods screw things up, no advice is helpful when a mod may throw a monkey wrench in the works. My advice is to put it back stock, upload the stock tune to it, and start over from there. You can put the mods back when you get the basic stock setup running. Otherwise, you need to be a tuner with a full laptop setup and not use that little block device to fix it.
I would have liked to hear the engine turn over a bit longer, to be honest, to see if the compression sounded right. That stutter messed up the turning sounds enough I can't tell if it was smooth or not. If it's rough, or trying to retrograde or such, the timing might be off, like you jumped a tooth somewhere, but one would ordinarily think the crank/cam correlation code would happen.
The fact that it stuttered at all means it wanted to start, so the computer ostensibly sees all the sensors it needs to and thinks they're ok, seems...
I'm sure that's not the exact advice you were hoping for, but that's what I got. Good luck, and hope it helps anyway.
2/20/22, 09:40 PM
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Howdy, welcome to the forums!
Your video cut off a bit early, I suspect... but still I think I have enough to ask...
What the heck is goin' on with those needles? Every single one of them went negative right as the sputter happened. This makes me think there is a short/ground issue with the wiring.
You need to get the shop manual for your particular year so you can go through the 'Engine cranks but does not start' diagnostic procedures. The two I know of online are incomplete regarding the diagnostics, some of them are there, and some of them... well, aren't. They just didn't scan those. If you can't get the manual, or are simply not in the mood to chase down electrical stuff, you might have to submit the car to a mechanic to do the work.
Now.. the problem is your car is not stock. That is a *huge* issue with diagnosing anything. Mods screw things up, no advice is helpful when a mod may throw a monkey wrench in the works. My advice is to put it back stock, upload the stock tune to it, and start over from there. You can put the mods back when you get the basic stock setup running. Otherwise, you need to be a tuner with a full laptop setup and not use that little block device to fix it.
I would have liked to hear the engine turn over a bit longer, to be honest, to see if the compression sounded right. That stutter messed up the turning sounds enough I can't tell if it was smooth or not. If it's rough, or trying to retrograde or such, the timing might be off, like you jumped a tooth somewhere, but one would ordinarily think the crank/cam correlation code would happen.
The fact that it stuttered at all means it wanted to start, so the computer ostensibly sees all the sensors it needs to and thinks they're ok, seems...
I'm sure that's not the exact advice you were hoping for, but that's what I got. Good luck, and hope it helps anyway.
Your video cut off a bit early, I suspect... but still I think I have enough to ask...
What the heck is goin' on with those needles? Every single one of them went negative right as the sputter happened. This makes me think there is a short/ground issue with the wiring.
You need to get the shop manual for your particular year so you can go through the 'Engine cranks but does not start' diagnostic procedures. The two I know of online are incomplete regarding the diagnostics, some of them are there, and some of them... well, aren't. They just didn't scan those. If you can't get the manual, or are simply not in the mood to chase down electrical stuff, you might have to submit the car to a mechanic to do the work.
Now.. the problem is your car is not stock. That is a *huge* issue with diagnosing anything. Mods screw things up, no advice is helpful when a mod may throw a monkey wrench in the works. My advice is to put it back stock, upload the stock tune to it, and start over from there. You can put the mods back when you get the basic stock setup running. Otherwise, you need to be a tuner with a full laptop setup and not use that little block device to fix it.
I would have liked to hear the engine turn over a bit longer, to be honest, to see if the compression sounded right. That stutter messed up the turning sounds enough I can't tell if it was smooth or not. If it's rough, or trying to retrograde or such, the timing might be off, like you jumped a tooth somewhere, but one would ordinarily think the crank/cam correlation code would happen.
The fact that it stuttered at all means it wanted to start, so the computer ostensibly sees all the sensors it needs to and thinks they're ok, seems...
I'm sure that's not the exact advice you were hoping for, but that's what I got. Good luck, and hope it helps anyway.
2/24/22, 03:42 PM
#4
Legacy TMS Member
I'm with Houtex on this one. More video time for the cranking segment.
My first thought is fuel pressure. OP, have you checked the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve? I'm thinking you have less fuel pressure than required. Just because your tank says full, you still need fuel pressure to the injectors. I'd start there.
Another could either be a crank or cam sensor is dying. 4.0s seem to have this problem for some reason. I traced one down recently in an Exploder and that's where I ended up. We replaced crank sensor on that one.
My first thought is fuel pressure. OP, have you checked the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve? I'm thinking you have less fuel pressure than required. Just because your tank says full, you still need fuel pressure to the injectors. I'd start there.
Another could either be a crank or cam sensor is dying. 4.0s seem to have this problem for some reason. I traced one down recently in an Exploder and that's where I ended up. We replaced crank sensor on that one.
Last edited by akdoggie; 2/24/22 at 03:44 PM.
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