2005 v6 mustang windows
10/20/19, 09:32 PM
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2005 v6 mustang windows
Iv been searching the forums and cannot find a solutions. When I open the drivers side door the window goes down completely. When I try to roll the window up it only goes up about 3 inches at a time. When I try the window reset nothing works. I pulled the computer system and it seems like it wasn’t compromised due to water damage.I replaced all the fuses and that didn’t work. I also tried disconnecting the battery and that also didn’t work. The previous owner did let the battery die on it at least once a year. It’s a 2005 v6 with 1500 miles. Yes 1500 it’s basically brand new. I would love to sell it but I know the value is being killed by this window problem. I can upload a video in the morning but please send your advice.
10/20/19, 10:17 PM
#2
Legacy TMS Member
You need a new window motor. All the things that measure where the window is located, as well as the memory of where the top and bottom and drop down positions are, are in the motor assembly. You'll have to replace the motor. It can be done, but you'll have to pull the entire regulator out of the car.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=458&f=Window%...20Door.pdf&p=1
That's the procedure. You can also find youtube videos out there.
One other thing. I have, unfortunately, found out that if the battery is somewhat weakened, then the window will do this as well. So it may not be your motor, but a janky battery.
I know this because... well, currently just discovered weak battery in Awesome, it'll have to be replaced. Again. Ford really screwed up this battery thing, I've done a yeoman's job with it, but still.. fifth battery comin' up.
But I suppose that 4 years on a 2 year warrantied battery isn't asking for the moon... is it? 
Overall, though, the electrics are still MUCH MUCH better, battery included, since I did that, so if it helps/applies, there ya go. But yeah, currently my driver window's goin' nuts just now, and the starter's not happy. Definitely battery, just happened today. Well, the window started goofin' up about a week ago, and I had my suspicions... Always the driver's side, too, the passenger never 'complains'... but then I don't use it as much...
Anyway. Have the battery checked out, maybe that's 'all' it is.
Hope that helps!
And welcome to the forums! 
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=458&f=Window%...20Door.pdf&p=1
That's the procedure. You can also find youtube videos out there.
One other thing. I have, unfortunately, found out that if the battery is somewhat weakened, then the window will do this as well. So it may not be your motor, but a janky battery.
I know this because... well, currently just discovered weak battery in Awesome, it'll have to be replaced. Again. Ford really screwed up this battery thing, I've done a yeoman's job with it, but still.. fifth battery comin' up.
But I suppose that 4 years on a 2 year warrantied battery isn't asking for the moon... is it? Overall, though, the electrics are still MUCH MUCH better, battery included, since I did that, so if it helps/applies, there ya go. But yeah, currently my driver window's goin' nuts just now, and the starter's not happy. Definitely battery, just happened today. Well, the window started goofin' up about a week ago, and I had my suspicions... Always the driver's side, too, the passenger never 'complains'... but then I don't use it as much...
Anyway. Have the battery checked out, maybe that's 'all' it is.Hope that helps!
And welcome to the forums!
11/3/19, 02:12 PM
#6
I know this because... well, currently just discovered weak battery in Awesome, it'll have to be replaced. Again. Ford really screwed up this battery thing, I've done a yeoman's job with it, but still.. fifth battery comin' up. But I suppose that 4 years on a 2 year warrantied battery isn't asking for the moon... is it?
Overall, though, the electrics are still MUCH MUCH better, battery included, since I did that, so if it helps/applies, there ya go.
But I suppose that 4 years on a 2 year warrantied battery isn't asking for the moon... is it? Overall, though, the electrics are still MUCH MUCH better, battery included, since I did that, so if it helps/applies, there ya go.
11/3/19, 10:39 PM
#7
Legacy TMS Member
(There's a TL;DR at the bottom, so you're warned.)
To answer the question as put (what did I do: re this new battery issue on Awesome), I put in a Walmart EverStart battery in it. Problem solved. For now. Later, I may do something to help the situation, but it's a cheap battery and it'll do.
Now now, before you all go off on me, hear me out. There's a reason I just said '(word to mean a spiral ramp affixed to a shaft what can be used to fasten two things together) it, I'mm'a get a that Walmart battery.' I've been doing more research, as I have a motorcycle what has its issues with batteries due to less activity and is a *royal* pain to swap out. The location is just... ugh. Point is, I was looking and looking for a better battery for the inactivity issues on that one and got more information regarding these Mustangs and their battery situations. I will now proceed to learn yer selves 'bout it.
Ok, first things first: 3. It's the magic number. Yes it is. It's the magic number. There are exactly three manufacturers of car batteries (excluding them cars what use Li-ons or whatever they're doin' with them hybrids or pure 'lectrics, those don't count here. We talkin' 'regular' car batteries.) Johnson Controls, Exidy and East Penn. So you've got three choices in batteries.
Second: The brands change about for reasons(tm). Sears, for example, switched from Exidy to Johnson Controls for their Die Hard batteries (still available at Sears.com and your Sears Auto Centers if they're still about) because Exidy was doing... things. Sears sued, and end result they swapped. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. And it's not likely you'd be able to tell which was which.
Third: Motorcraft (Ford), Duralast (Autozone), Autocraft (Advance) and even Delco (GM) are made by Johnson Controls. Add to that list: EverStart (Walmart). (FWIW, Exidy makes the Super Start (O'Reilly) that just died on me, and previous to that I had another, different Super Start (less CCA, more, but prorated warranty) an Autocraft and before that a Motorcraft, which itself was a warranty swap for the original from new.) (NOTE: This is what the research indicates, and while I've done what I can, if the information I've gleaned is wrong in some way, please to correct, I don't mind. But trust me when I say there's no actual real good list, it's more cross correlation going on and trying to get latest info as best and yet fast as I can, so... ok, disclaimer over.)
Fourth: Without exception, the Walmart was 100 bucks to everyone else's 150 or more. The Walmart has a two year-no questions swap program, and they keep track (but I have my receipt anyway.) No prorating, just get one. We shall see if that holds true. And it's Johnson Controls (even has the serial number start with 'JC'!)
Fifth: Cleetus McFarland runs that Walmart battery on Leroy, the first GM stick shift car in the 7s. It starts their nasty twin turbo car in the Florida heat no problem. Good enough for me. Bought it. No ragrets.
Sixth: Just info, Johnson Controls' Power Solutions (battery division) was sold to another company, and the result is that Johnson Control Power Solutions is now called Clarios. So when you see info regarding 'X batteries are made by Johnson Controls', they're really now made by Clarios, but same thing. Just completed that process in May, so it'll start trickin' to elsewheres soon enough.
---
Ok, so that's the 'why I did it', but what about 'why they die?'
Batteries can 'age out'. Just old age. I had a '97 HoopTBird v6 that had the original Motorcraft (Johnson Controls) battery in it. It was bigger size than what goes in Awesome, but it was still in that car 11 years later when I finally traded it in for to get Awesome. The alternator died once, replaced it, battery kept going. So there's a 'good story' about a Motorcraft/JC battery for ya.
That probably can't happen on a S197. Not easily anyway. The reason? The battery is in the wrong place. And it gets hot. This kills the battery. By placing it behind the shock tower (doesn't matter which side) and not having any sort of way to mitigate the heat from the engine and the exhaust from getting to the battery, it cooks it and kills it. Blanket or not. This isn't the same as the car discharging due to the alarm or radio or some other 'always on' thing. I dang near run my car every single day. It's my work truck (unfortunately, but she's ok with it) and I drive her all the time.
It doesn't help I'm in Texas where it's hot and humid. Heat trapping atmosphere. And then I sit in traffic, or just around for reasons, and... yeah. Battery killing machine I got here.
And so... All the work I did in that other thread was helpful and did a good job at keeping the battery as happy as it can be. But it ultimately just delayed the inevitable. I therefore submit. I'm gonna have to replace these things every so often. If I gotta do that, I'm going to get the cheap ones, seeing as they're the same as the more expensive ones.
Yes, you can say 'it's Walmart, so they're made not-as-good!' and I'd have to say 'maybe', as I don't know for sure. Lots of 'maybes' in the world. But there's a definite here: I can swap that battery pretty fast. So no need to spend more on something that's gonna die anyway. And I'm not.
---
THAT said... I've got ideas(tm) on what to do next. As I said, it's a heat trapping issue due to battery placement. Batteries should go up front in the engine compartment. It's cooler there right behind the headlamps, and when the car moves the air is movin' across the battery. Unlike behind that shock tower. Or in the trunk where it's not gonna get hot. Or... get this... might have to air condition it. Like a Prius battery. They have a fan and duct work on them to keep them cool. If the fan fails, the car gets miffed and tells you to 'get that fixed or else'. And you better or it will get mad and not run. Can't have explody.
So maybe I move the battery to the trunk. I've sorta always wanted to have a trunk mounted battery. Because it's cool. Thing is, gotta vent that nasty from it, or get a sealed one.... But more likely, if I do anything, I figure out a way to push cold air in/pull hot air out with a fan and duct work/box or something. It'd be kinda trick, and I'd make it look nice. Although as I type this, I wonder if there's already something like that out there to just mod for Awesome instead of fabbing it...
I'll post something in a more appropos spot if I do.
So... there y'all go. Whether you wanted to know my thoughts/info/delusions or not.
/TL;DR: I swapped the battery for a Walmart, ain't skeert, don't @ me, bros.
//HA!!!!!!! I DID IT!!! I BEAT THE YOUTUBE AUTO-INLINE EMBEDDING THINGY!
///plz... don't fix it, mods... I want links instead, it flows better....
To answer the question as put (what did I do: re this new battery issue on Awesome), I put in a Walmart EverStart battery in it. Problem solved. For now. Later, I may do something to help the situation, but it's a cheap battery and it'll do.
Now now, before you all go off on me, hear me out. There's a reason I just said '(word to mean a spiral ramp affixed to a shaft what can be used to fasten two things together) it, I'mm'a get a that Walmart battery.' I've been doing more research, as I have a motorcycle what has its issues with batteries due to less activity and is a *royal* pain to swap out. The location is just... ugh. Point is, I was looking and looking for a better battery for the inactivity issues on that one and got more information regarding these Mustangs and their battery situations. I will now proceed to learn yer selves 'bout it.
Ok, first things first: 3. It's the magic number. Yes it is. It's the magic number. There are exactly three manufacturers of car batteries (excluding them cars what use Li-ons or whatever they're doin' with them hybrids or pure 'lectrics, those don't count here. We talkin' 'regular' car batteries.) Johnson Controls, Exidy and East Penn. So you've got three choices in batteries.
Second: The brands change about for reasons(tm). Sears, for example, switched from Exidy to Johnson Controls for their Die Hard batteries (still available at Sears.com and your Sears Auto Centers if they're still about) because Exidy was doing... things. Sears sued, and end result they swapped. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. And it's not likely you'd be able to tell which was which.
Third: Motorcraft (Ford), Duralast (Autozone), Autocraft (Advance) and even Delco (GM) are made by Johnson Controls. Add to that list: EverStart (Walmart). (FWIW, Exidy makes the Super Start (O'Reilly) that just died on me, and previous to that I had another, different Super Start (less CCA, more, but prorated warranty) an Autocraft and before that a Motorcraft, which itself was a warranty swap for the original from new.) (NOTE: This is what the research indicates, and while I've done what I can, if the information I've gleaned is wrong in some way, please to correct, I don't mind. But trust me when I say there's no actual real good list, it's more cross correlation going on and trying to get latest info as best and yet fast as I can, so... ok, disclaimer over.)
Fourth: Without exception, the Walmart was 100 bucks to everyone else's 150 or more. The Walmart has a two year-no questions swap program, and they keep track (but I have my receipt anyway.) No prorating, just get one. We shall see if that holds true. And it's Johnson Controls (even has the serial number start with 'JC'!)
Fifth: Cleetus McFarland runs that Walmart battery on Leroy, the first GM stick shift car in the 7s. It starts their nasty twin turbo car in the Florida heat no problem. Good enough for me. Bought it. No ragrets.
Sixth: Just info, Johnson Controls' Power Solutions (battery division) was sold to another company, and the result is that Johnson Control Power Solutions is now called Clarios. So when you see info regarding 'X batteries are made by Johnson Controls', they're really now made by Clarios, but same thing. Just completed that process in May, so it'll start trickin' to elsewheres soon enough.
---
Ok, so that's the 'why I did it', but what about 'why they die?'
Batteries can 'age out'. Just old age. I had a '97 HoopTBird v6 that had the original Motorcraft (Johnson Controls) battery in it. It was bigger size than what goes in Awesome, but it was still in that car 11 years later when I finally traded it in for to get Awesome. The alternator died once, replaced it, battery kept going. So there's a 'good story' about a Motorcraft/JC battery for ya.
That probably can't happen on a S197. Not easily anyway. The reason? The battery is in the wrong place. And it gets hot. This kills the battery. By placing it behind the shock tower (doesn't matter which side) and not having any sort of way to mitigate the heat from the engine and the exhaust from getting to the battery, it cooks it and kills it. Blanket or not. This isn't the same as the car discharging due to the alarm or radio or some other 'always on' thing. I dang near run my car every single day. It's my work truck (unfortunately, but she's ok with it) and I drive her all the time.
It doesn't help I'm in Texas where it's hot and humid. Heat trapping atmosphere. And then I sit in traffic, or just around for reasons, and... yeah. Battery killing machine I got here.
And so... All the work I did in that other thread was helpful and did a good job at keeping the battery as happy as it can be. But it ultimately just delayed the inevitable. I therefore submit. I'm gonna have to replace these things every so often. If I gotta do that, I'm going to get the cheap ones, seeing as they're the same as the more expensive ones.
Yes, you can say 'it's Walmart, so they're made not-as-good!' and I'd have to say 'maybe', as I don't know for sure. Lots of 'maybes' in the world. But there's a definite here: I can swap that battery pretty fast. So no need to spend more on something that's gonna die anyway. And I'm not.
---
THAT said... I've got ideas(tm) on what to do next. As I said, it's a heat trapping issue due to battery placement. Batteries should go up front in the engine compartment. It's cooler there right behind the headlamps, and when the car moves the air is movin' across the battery. Unlike behind that shock tower. Or in the trunk where it's not gonna get hot. Or... get this... might have to air condition it. Like a Prius battery. They have a fan and duct work on them to keep them cool. If the fan fails, the car gets miffed and tells you to 'get that fixed or else'. And you better or it will get mad and not run. Can't have explody.
So maybe I move the battery to the trunk. I've sorta always wanted to have a trunk mounted battery. Because it's cool. Thing is, gotta vent that nasty from it, or get a sealed one.... But more likely, if I do anything, I figure out a way to push cold air in/pull hot air out with a fan and duct work/box or something. It'd be kinda trick, and I'd make it look nice. Although as I type this, I wonder if there's already something like that out there to just mod for Awesome instead of fabbing it...
I'll post something in a more appropos spot if I do.
So... there y'all go. Whether you wanted to know my thoughts/info/delusions or not.
/TL;DR: I swapped the battery for a Walmart, ain't skeert, don't @ me, bros.
//HA!!!!!!! I DID IT!!! I BEAT THE YOUTUBE AUTO-INLINE EMBEDDING THINGY!
///plz... don't fix it, mods... I want links instead, it flows better....
Last edited by houtex; 11/3/19 at 10:59 PM.
8/28/22, 10:44 AM
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not a reply just need help this is my last option
I have a 2008 v6 and the passenger door sensor was bad and keeping my dome light on and i went ahead and replaced the sensor. Got the sensor put in and went to try and it does the exact opposite of what it’s suppose to do (Window goes down when I shut the door instead of up) . I’ve tried resetting the windows and it won’t work. It also says my door is open when it is shut, and when the door is open the car reads it as the door is shut. I haven’t seen anybody with this problem and it’s pretty annoying to say the least. Thanks in advance.
8/28/22, 10:58 AM
#9
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I have a 2008 v6 and the passenger door sensor was bad and keeping my dome light on and i went ahead and replaced the sensor. Got the sensor put in and went to try and it does the exact opposite of what it’s suppose to do (Window goes down when I shut the door instead of up) . I’ve tried resetting the windows and it won’t work. It also says my door is open when it is shut, and when the door is open the car reads it as the door is shut. I haven’t seen anybody with this problem and it’s pretty annoying to say the least. Thanks in advance.
Here is the Reset Procedure for Everybody
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...5/#post6133018
Also if you Scroll Down to Related Topics you might Read the Other Window Forums!
K
Last edited by 05stangkc; 8/28/22 at 11:16 AM.
8/28/22, 11:07 AM
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New - SW460865-0035
Old - 4L2T-14018AC
I was aware the part numbers were different but the new one was a Duralast from autozone so I was thinking the Duralast would last a little longer cuz it was a couple dollars more. I already ordered the Motorcraft one to see if it is just the sensor, I thought i’d post it on here to maybe save myself from messing up again and confirming it’s not something major.
Thanks for the quick response!
8/28/22, 11:47 AM
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What Part Number is the Motorcraft you Ordered?
It is Looking Like A Wrong Switch but Give me your Vin as Well. I wish I had Access to Ford Database and I would have Been Done By Now.
Your Part From Autozone SW460865-0035 I believe is Actually Just SW4608 a Four Digit Motorcraft Part Number.
K
It is Looking Like A Wrong Switch but Give me your Vin as Well. I wish I had Access to Ford Database and I would have Been Done By Now.
Your Part From Autozone SW460865-0035 I believe is Actually Just SW4608 a Four Digit Motorcraft Part Number.
K
Last edited by 05stangkc; 8/28/22 at 12:00 PM.
8/28/22, 12:08 PM
#13
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I Updated the Post you probably did not see I need your Vin. If you Don't want to Post you can Email to Me. clevparts@aol.com
K
K
8/28/22, 12:08 PM
#14
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8/28/22, 12:14 PM
#15
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According to the Orielly Site The Sw6121 is Driver Side and Sw 6122 is Passenger side
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...m+switch&pos=5
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...m+switch&pos=5
Rock Auto Says the Same.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...mb+switch,4360
I had Drivers Door Locked in My Brain and Thought you Had Opposite Switch. So the Sw6122 Should Do the Deed. Looks Like First Switch is an Issue!
The Autozone SW4608 Shows to be a Trunk Ajar Switch for Another Model
https://www.autozone.com/collision-b...608/909725_0_0
I would Still like to Try the Vin if you Like!
KC
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...m+switch&pos=5
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...m+switch&pos=5
Rock Auto Says the Same.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...mb+switch,4360
I had Drivers Door Locked in My Brain and Thought you Had Opposite Switch. So the Sw6122 Should Do the Deed. Looks Like First Switch is an Issue!
The Autozone SW4608 Shows to be a Trunk Ajar Switch for Another Model
https://www.autozone.com/collision-b...608/909725_0_0
I would Still like to Try the Vin if you Like!
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 8/28/22 at 01:06 PM.
8/28/22, 12:44 PM
#16
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Got Email ,It I think New Switch will Do the Deed!
Last edited by 05stangkc; 8/28/22 at 01:39 PM.
8/28/22, 12:53 PM
#18
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It's Quite a Workout Using Three Different catalogs to Cross Reference & Verify Part Numbers. Where when I was At the Dealership I could Check Anything Much Faster! Let Us Know how it Comes out. Sounds Like the First switch was Backward in How it Functioned.
Best Regards,
Kc
8/28/22, 01:26 PM
#19
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Hello,
Logan
Just Stick with one of the Screen Names from Here on Out! You Got More Posts on the First! I would stick with that!
KC
Logan
Just Stick with one of the Screen Names from Here on Out! You Got More Posts on the First! I would stick with that!
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 8/28/22 at 01:28 PM.
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