UPDATE I did it three times coming to work today and stalled twice at a light.

 

That explains the CEL, but does not explain why the car is stalling.

As I understand it, the rear/downstream O2's main function is to detect whether the cats are working as part of the emissions controls; they have zero or near-zero affect on how the car runs. The upstream O2's are used to trim the air/fuel mix.

So I'm thinking it's one of the other potential issues that is making it stall.

 

As previously mentioned, it's more than likely the OP's throttle body causing the rpm's to fluctuate and stall the vehicle, otherwise, there's something in his tune that might not be calibrated properly and requires a tune adjustment/revision

 

You did what three times? Trying to get a straight answer from you, is like trying to pull teeth.. Be more specific for Christ sake

 

lol sorry man I was at work and had grease all over my gloves and typo’d. My car did the bog down twice this morning and when I parked it in my bay at work it continuously did it with almost no hesitation. It’s seeming like it’s idling for a little bit then loses its correct idle, and try’s to find it and when it fails to find it the pcm or ecm cuts the car off of power. What I was saying in earlier reply’s is that I did some recleaning of the throttle body and it worked well for that day and had 0 issues. Then today was a completely different story.

 

I’m leaning toward this solution of replacing the throttle body assembly from Ford. Luckily I can get a pretty good discount on it as I work for a dealership myself so it seems I’ll try to pick one up pretty soon here and give you an update if that ends up fixing anything. Just have to wait for a paycheck because even with a discount it’s still 350 including gasket.

 

My bad for jumping the gun, as I had no idea that you were at work and had grease all over your gloves which caused the typo errors. Therefore, I now stand corrected.

Being as your car bogged down twice after cleaning the throttle body, It appears more than likely that it's time to replace it. Just this past summer a friend of mine also had the same issues with his 2008 Shelby GT500 Super-Snake and was also informed it's the throttle body that's responsible for causing the engine to bog down and shut down into fail safe mode. Knowing that you work at a dealership, talk with one of the service techs first to find out if they recommend replacing the throttle body before purchasing, just to make certain for your own piece of mind

 

yeah I work directly under the shop foreman I’m his apprentice actually and we’ve been really going through this problem even with a frontier now obviously that car is different and works differently but he seems to agree with you and what we’ve gone through here. So we will see how things come along in the future I appreciate the help man! Will definitely update with a reply when I’ve replaced the throttle body.

 

Will definitely be looking forward to your next update/follow-up.

 

well ****. So I haven’t come up with the funds for the throttle body yet and now my car went into limp mode my codes are P2106 and P061B

 

DTC Decoded: P2106

Ford DTC Code: P2106

Code Meaning: Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power

What’s Wrong: The throttle actuator control system is in FMEM mode of force limited power. This DTC indicates that the FMEM action is taking place because of a failure in the ETC related components or module.





Possible Causes:

• Throttle actuator control motor is either stuck open or stuck closed
• The throttle actuator control is faulty
• Harness for the throttle actuator motor harness is open or has a short
• There’s a poor electrical connection with the throttle actuator control circuit
• Damaged PCM

How To Diagnose and Fix Possible Causes

This code has been set as an informational trouble code to tell the vehicle owner that the vehicle has entered into a failure mode due to a problem in the throttle actuator control system. Due to the nature of the part, this is a problem you’ll likely need to visit a certified Ford mechanic to diagnose. However, there are a few things you can check on your own before taking the time to visit a mechanic for help with diagnosis.

Commonly, Ford owners will experience this code as a result of changing rear axle ratios or wheel and tire sizes — if you have recently changed these, this is most likely your problem. In this case, your computer will need to be updated to accommodate for the size changes. This can be done at any certified Ford repair shop.

You can also check a few different things like making sure the spring on your throttle body is in tact and that it’s properly tightened down. Also, check to make sure the throttle is opening and closing all of the way when the accelerator pedal is depressed. Faults could also exist in the MAF, throttle position sensor, the idle air control valve, and various other related sensors. Voltage testing will need to be done to determine where the fault is in the system.

What does P061B mean?

CHRISTINE2365

• MEMBER
• 2006 FORD E-SERIES VAN
• 5.4L
• V8
• RWD
• AUTOMATIC
• 117,000 MILES

Wrench light and engine light came on. I changed the app sensor and the other sensor cant think of the name right now. It cost me $273.00 and it is not fixed. It was stalling while driving before I changed the two sensors. Now it just seems like it is choking and it is not running smooth. What does that code mean now? Ugh
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THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH, 2017 AT 6:22 PM

4 Replies

HEYMAN1104

• EXPERT

All I can see about that code is that it indicates that a calculation error occurred in the power-train control module. And to look up P2016 for causes. I am doing that now.

Aids Check for sensor and circuit related DTCs. Do not install a new electronic throttle body (ETB) for this DTC. Straight out of the ford manual
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THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH, 2017 AT 6:51 PM

HEYMAN1104

• EXPERT

When I look up p2106, it is indicating that the system has detected some sort of fault in the throttle Actuator System (the throttle body area). It is not specific as to what the fault might be. It goes on to say that there probably is other codes that will point you in the right direction.

So, take it to AutoZone, Advance Auto, Oreilly Auto Parts, or wherever you got it scanned before, and get it scanned again. Be sure to either write down everything that it says or get a complete printout. Come back with whatever that says and we will go from there on troubleshooting.

If you want to check some things before going to get it scanned, you can raise the hood and look observe the throttle body (should be at the end of the air duct that is on the engine) and see if any of the wires look loose, shorted, or burnt up.

Let us know.
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THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH, 2017 AT 7:02 PM

CHRISTINE2365

• MEMBER

This is the second time I had my code printed out. First time from Autozone, so I replaced the two sensors, app and another above the app sensor for the throttle problem we thought that would fix it. But two days later it was running rough like choking. I put in injection cleaner and water removal in gas tank hoping that would help. Nope today it choked and wrench light and engine light came on so the third picture is from Advanced auto and the p061b code came up this time. I just need to know how to fix this problem.
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THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH, 2017 AT 7:38 PM

STEVE W.

• EXPERT

Your codes are all related to the throttle body. Ford wants you to replace the entire thing but you can usually buy just the Throttle Body Position sensor. Either way if you replaced the TB or sensor did you do an idle relearn? It's simple to do.

1 - Start with a cold vehicle and turn off everything in the vehicle like lights, heater, and anything else that draws battery power.
2 - Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery. And make sure it cannot touch the post.
3 - Use a jumper lead to connect the disconnected cable terminal to the positive battery cables terminal.

DO NOT ALLOW IT TO SHORT TO THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST.

4 - Leave it connected for about a minute. This will drain the power from the PCM and wipe it's memory of idle and shift settings.
5 - Remove the jumper wire and reconnect the negative cable to the battery.
6 - Turn the ignition key to the on position and let the gauges/lights run their test.
7 - Wait twenty seconds and start the engine. The PCM will now use the various sensors to learn the idle control for the replacement TB unit.
8 - Let the van warm up to full operating temperature. The PCM will continually adjust the idle as the engine warms up.
9 - Shut off the van and let it cool down. Overnight is good.
10 - Start the cold van and drive as you normally do for about five to ten miles. This will allow the PCM to relearn the shift points and throttle positions for the new parts.
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FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH, 2017 AT 12:16 AM

P061B FORD Possible Causes
Faulty Throttle Valve Control Servo
Throttle Valve Control Servo harness open or shorted
Throttle Valve Control Servo circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
There is some foreign matter around air flow sensor
Software incompatibility issue
Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

 

THIS IS AMAZING information thank you so much

 

Both codes are related to the throttle body!

 

perfect I got a chance to order it today sadly it’s a couple days out.

 

What matters most, is knowing it was the throttle body all along. Meanwhile, let us know how everything works out after you get the new TB installed.

 

My car has been pretty much trouble free for years since I bought it. I have a tune and a programmer/code reader. I had the same thing how you described a fluctuating idle I cant remember the codes now. I think I had 2 codes one for the throttle actuator and one for the throttle sensor. I got a brand new Ford Racing throttle body for around $150. The throttle body from Ford was around $350...never could figure that one out. The Ford Racing throttle body came with new actuator and sensor. The problem was fixed. Apparently some of the throttle sensors were bad from new.

 

I just replaced the throttle body today did you do anything special after you replaced it? Drive cycle etc?

 

Its been 4 or 5 years since I replaced the throttle body. I dont believe I did anything special, I probably cleared the codes and that is it.

Did that fix your problem?...I hope it did.

 

I just looked in my old thread and I had P2106 and P2135

 

New TB installed I’ve driven 53.5 miles probably half highway. I don’t seem to have the codes anymore and no limp mode. Sadly the idle still fluctuates I’m completely stumped at this point really don’t know what’s left to make it idle correctly.