2005 4L. V-6 Wont Start not an easy ONE!
2005 4L. V-6 Wont Start not an easy ONE!
2005 4L. Car ran choppy had trouble starting ran 2mi. Car died will crank will not turn over.
Did all the basic ran scanner NO CODES .. Checked inertia switch all related fuses and relays.
Cylinders flooding with gas. No Spark changed coil pack, gapped cleaned plugs.. replace both crankshaft and camshaft posistion sensors. Spark at plug end verified. Cylander 2 and 5 filling with gas. Tried disconnecting battery and ecu fuses.. overnight. Ran through PATS check and tried 3 good keys. Have use 5 gallons of gas tring to just start it.. had to change oil bcuz gas filled oil pan.
im out of ideas to test. HELP!
Did all the basic ran scanner NO CODES .. Checked inertia switch all related fuses and relays.
Cylinders flooding with gas. No Spark changed coil pack, gapped cleaned plugs.. replace both crankshaft and camshaft posistion sensors. Spark at plug end verified. Cylander 2 and 5 filling with gas. Tried disconnecting battery and ecu fuses.. overnight. Ran through PATS check and tried 3 good keys. Have use 5 gallons of gas tring to just start it.. had to change oil bcuz gas filled oil pan.
im out of ideas to test. HELP!
Welcome to the forums! 
I'm gonna sound a little harsh, and I'm going to repeat things, and question things. But it's just to get clarification. You're confusing me a little with the description. It's probably me.
You say it ran choppy for 2 miles. Then it died. And it then *will* crank. But *not* turn over? That doesn't sound anything close to possible. Either it can crank or it won't. Do you mean it will crank, but not run? Or do you mean it wants to crank, but cannot turn the rotating assembly (crank/rods/pistons)? If the second, it won't turn, then that's making sense, more later on that.
No codes, got that. Inertial switch and fuses and relays all indicate good.
Your cylinders are flooding with gas, and later on you specifically state 2 and 5. Interesting it's the middle of the two banks on the engine, but probably just an oddity of coincidence.
No spark, changed coil pack, cleaned and regapped plugs (or new plugs?) cam and crank sensors all replaced, and tada, we got spark again. I assume engine now cranks normally, still no start at this point, yes? But cylinders 2 and 5 filling up with fuel. I bet that stops the turning, yes?
You reset the computer, no fix, makes sense in this case actually. Keys aren't the problem. You're just using gas on top of gas now, and the oil is now compromised because there's so much of it getting in the cylinders.
---
Conclusion: Best guess, you have at least two bad and stuck open injectors. I'd suggest replacing them all, but THAT IS A GUESS. You may, alternatively, pull all the injectors, put appropriate sized tubing on them, long enough to get to a bucket or some such other vessel of containment, and JUST KEY ON, DO NOT CRANK. The fuel rail should get fuel pressure, and if the injectors are stuck open, they'll just pour gas all by themselves into the bucket/other vessel of containment. This would verify what I suspect is the truth: You need new fuel injectors. The injectors do not open unless the engine is turning, the crank and cam sensors are making sense, and you're trying to run the engine. If they're spraying fuel while nothing else is going on, that's wrong, they're bad.
Again: THIS IS A GUESS. But it sure sounds like that's the case here. The fuel being so loaded up in cylinders 2 and 5 would stop the engine turning because of hydrolock. And that's... not great...
(Note: This procedure... you need to be careful, it's gas and playing around with injectors. BE SURE those injectors are secure in the tubing, and that they won't come out. Gas is gonna get everywhere if you're not careful. Be safe. Safety glasses and maybe even a mask if you're prone, like me, to mess up.
)
Hm... the wiring could be an issue, or the computer, you may want to check those too. Be a real rarity... unless your car has an 'interesting' past... Wiring/computer chasing can be a real fun time though...
---
Hydrolock would be potentially an engine killer. It could bend valves. And you hope that's all it does. You can find heads in a junkyard, clean 'em up, and replace them fairly easily and go about your day.
But it can also cause those bent valves to stick out and hit the pistons. And/or it could cause the connecting rod from the pistons to the crank to bend/break. And/or other more deadly-to-an-engine things past that. All of these are new/rebuild engine time, how fun.
Maybe you're lucky. Only one way to find out, beyond tearing the motor apart, and at this point, I'm doing this first, before that fuel injector test setup up there. Get a compression tester. https://www.harborfreight.com/compre...-pc-62638.html (Example, notasponsor, notarecommendation.) Turn off the fuel system and depressurize it. Take out the spark plugs, all of them. Crank the motor for a few seconds, and watch as stuff comes flying out of the cylinders as the engine de-gases itself, if there's liquid fuel in the cylinders. Wait a minute or two to let the fumes go away. Install the compression tester into cylinder 1, and crank the motor for a a half dozen revolutions. You want a good average on that cylinder. Check the compression on the gauge. Write it down. Repeat for all 6 cylinders.
Here's a video for ya on that if you wanna watch, ETCG is good stuff.
In your case over 100 PSI (and probably close to 150ish?
I couldn't find a 'supposed to be' number, but I read that's what it's supposed to be, over 100...) would be good *as long as* all cylinders were within 15 PSI of each other.
So 150, 150, 145, 155, 160 would be fine, for example. 150, 80, 145, 160, 0, 155 would be bad. And wouldn't be completely unexpected in your case, potentially, given the description. I would sincerely hope not, of course, but it would be those two cylinders, 2 and 5, that something went terribly wrong, and you're looking at rebuilding something.
If you get good, 'even' compression across the cylinders, fantastic. Motor is basically ok, and at that point I'd go on with the fuel injector test I talked about earlier and hopefully salvage the situation.
---
One other thing. Having had a situation similar with my ol' '97 HoopTBird 3.8L V6, when them injectors went stupid and leaked all the time, shortly after I figured it out and got 'em fixed? Yeah. Catalytic converters were done. All three of them. The fuel got into them and burned in the substrate, and melted it. That caused the engine to choke on exhaust, and... yeah. So be sure to have those checked out too, all this fuel has me concerned for you on that.
I hope that helps. And if I'm speakin' things you already knew of, well, sorry, but I don't know levels of technical competence. I myself do ok, but I ain't no expert. All the words, all the time, is best, yes?
Good luck, let us know!

I'm gonna sound a little harsh, and I'm going to repeat things, and question things. But it's just to get clarification. You're confusing me a little with the description. It's probably me.

You say it ran choppy for 2 miles. Then it died. And it then *will* crank. But *not* turn over? That doesn't sound anything close to possible. Either it can crank or it won't. Do you mean it will crank, but not run? Or do you mean it wants to crank, but cannot turn the rotating assembly (crank/rods/pistons)? If the second, it won't turn, then that's making sense, more later on that.
No codes, got that. Inertial switch and fuses and relays all indicate good.
Your cylinders are flooding with gas, and later on you specifically state 2 and 5. Interesting it's the middle of the two banks on the engine, but probably just an oddity of coincidence.
No spark, changed coil pack, cleaned and regapped plugs (or new plugs?) cam and crank sensors all replaced, and tada, we got spark again. I assume engine now cranks normally, still no start at this point, yes? But cylinders 2 and 5 filling up with fuel. I bet that stops the turning, yes?
You reset the computer, no fix, makes sense in this case actually. Keys aren't the problem. You're just using gas on top of gas now, and the oil is now compromised because there's so much of it getting in the cylinders.
---
Conclusion: Best guess, you have at least two bad and stuck open injectors. I'd suggest replacing them all, but THAT IS A GUESS. You may, alternatively, pull all the injectors, put appropriate sized tubing on them, long enough to get to a bucket or some such other vessel of containment, and JUST KEY ON, DO NOT CRANK. The fuel rail should get fuel pressure, and if the injectors are stuck open, they'll just pour gas all by themselves into the bucket/other vessel of containment. This would verify what I suspect is the truth: You need new fuel injectors. The injectors do not open unless the engine is turning, the crank and cam sensors are making sense, and you're trying to run the engine. If they're spraying fuel while nothing else is going on, that's wrong, they're bad.
Again: THIS IS A GUESS. But it sure sounds like that's the case here. The fuel being so loaded up in cylinders 2 and 5 would stop the engine turning because of hydrolock. And that's... not great...
(Note: This procedure... you need to be careful, it's gas and playing around with injectors. BE SURE those injectors are secure in the tubing, and that they won't come out. Gas is gonna get everywhere if you're not careful. Be safe. Safety glasses and maybe even a mask if you're prone, like me, to mess up.
)Hm... the wiring could be an issue, or the computer, you may want to check those too. Be a real rarity... unless your car has an 'interesting' past... Wiring/computer chasing can be a real fun time though...
---
Hydrolock would be potentially an engine killer. It could bend valves. And you hope that's all it does. You can find heads in a junkyard, clean 'em up, and replace them fairly easily and go about your day.
But it can also cause those bent valves to stick out and hit the pistons. And/or it could cause the connecting rod from the pistons to the crank to bend/break. And/or other more deadly-to-an-engine things past that. All of these are new/rebuild engine time, how fun.

Maybe you're lucky. Only one way to find out, beyond tearing the motor apart, and at this point, I'm doing this first, before that fuel injector test setup up there. Get a compression tester. https://www.harborfreight.com/compre...-pc-62638.html (Example, notasponsor, notarecommendation.) Turn off the fuel system and depressurize it. Take out the spark plugs, all of them. Crank the motor for a few seconds, and watch as stuff comes flying out of the cylinders as the engine de-gases itself, if there's liquid fuel in the cylinders. Wait a minute or two to let the fumes go away. Install the compression tester into cylinder 1, and crank the motor for a a half dozen revolutions. You want a good average on that cylinder. Check the compression on the gauge. Write it down. Repeat for all 6 cylinders.
Here's a video for ya on that if you wanna watch, ETCG is good stuff.
In your case over 100 PSI (and probably close to 150ish?
I couldn't find a 'supposed to be' number, but I read that's what it's supposed to be, over 100...) would be good *as long as* all cylinders were within 15 PSI of each other.So 150, 150, 145, 155, 160 would be fine, for example. 150, 80, 145, 160, 0, 155 would be bad. And wouldn't be completely unexpected in your case, potentially, given the description. I would sincerely hope not, of course, but it would be those two cylinders, 2 and 5, that something went terribly wrong, and you're looking at rebuilding something.
If you get good, 'even' compression across the cylinders, fantastic. Motor is basically ok, and at that point I'd go on with the fuel injector test I talked about earlier and hopefully salvage the situation.
---
One other thing. Having had a situation similar with my ol' '97 HoopTBird 3.8L V6, when them injectors went stupid and leaked all the time, shortly after I figured it out and got 'em fixed? Yeah. Catalytic converters were done. All three of them. The fuel got into them and burned in the substrate, and melted it. That caused the engine to choke on exhaust, and... yeah. So be sure to have those checked out too, all this fuel has me concerned for you on that.
I hope that helps. And if I'm speakin' things you already knew of, well, sorry, but I don't know levels of technical competence. I myself do ok, but I ain't no expert. All the words, all the time, is best, yes?
Good luck, let us know!
Last edited by houtex; Jan 23, 2020 at 10:34 PM.
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