100,000 (100K) Mile Club.
My background is as a Machinist and Tool & Die Maker for over 40 years with building cars / engines as a hobby. I actually mic'd everything and found nothing even close to out of tolerance. The finishes were still as if factory new on the crankshaft and cams. The block had a crack from the denotation when I lost a piston so I used a new block for my rebuild. I did not have to have the crank ground so used stock size bearings. As a confirmation I took the crankshaft to a automotive machine shop to have it balanced and they concurred there was no reason to grind it at all. About the only thing that will wear in these engines if properly maintained are the plastic chain tensioners and guides. Mine still look pretty good but I did replaces those on my rebuild since the plastic does wear a bit over time no matter what you do. The main and rod bearing were still in perfect shape but they are cheap so I replaced them with bearings that are even better than the stock ones. There was no reason to replace the oil pump. It was still in perfect shape with no measurable wear as was the balance shaft.
I'm interested in the FilterMAG.
FilterMAG HP-365 Magnetic Oil Filter fits the stock Motorcraft FL-820-S which is one of the best filters available for both the 4.0 V6 and the 4.6 V8:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ftm-hp365
Ooops...Looks like they have a new part number for this one RA-365:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ftm-ra365
http://www.shopfiltermag.com/index.php
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ftm-hp365
Ooops...Looks like they have a new part number for this one RA-365:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ftm-ra365
http://www.shopfiltermag.com/index.php
Last edited by Nice Pony; Feb 4, 2013 at 06:12 PM.
I have 118K on my 2006 Mustang that will be 7 years old next month. I've been in one serious accident (Rear ended an Expeiditon, was too close and nailed him with the pass side front quater panel,10K plus damage, my fault) and I've been rear ended twice in the car (first one minor, just a bumper cover) and the other one I had a nice tear put in the sheet metal on the drivers side rear quarter panel from a Cruze rear view mirror that wasn't paying attention back in December 2011.
I haven't had any major issues, just had to replace the passenger side rear caliper...kept hanging on that side and ate the pads 2x. Replaced it and its been fine since then. I had the Plugs changed out at 98K miles since I was too busy at the time to change them.
She's getting retired to weekend car status hopefully in Late March/April with a 2013 Ruby Red Taurus SHO.
I haven't had any major issues, just had to replace the passenger side rear caliper...kept hanging on that side and ate the pads 2x. Replaced it and its been fine since then. I had the Plugs changed out at 98K miles since I was too busy at the time to change them.
She's getting retired to weekend car status hopefully in Late March/April with a 2013 Ruby Red Taurus SHO.
My 06 GT just hit 124K. Runs just like it's brand new still! I hot rod it everyday have done a BBK 62mm Throttle Body and a Airaid race only CAI with a custom tune with Straight Pipes and an X pipe! Runs like a completely different beast!! Nothing wrong with the car. Not even a seep l of oil leak or anything. Like show room floor.
2006 GT - 102,000 miles purchased new September '06
Runs and drives great still but have had a few issues along the way.
1) Replaced fuel pump under warranty in '08
2) Had fuel pump reinstalled in '09 by different dealer
3) OEM Pirellis lasted 60K
4) Replaced rear pads at 65K w/Hawk HPS
5) Replaced front pads and rotors at 95K - pads still had life left! Used Hawk pads again and take-off rotors
6) Changed oil every 5K Mobil 1 full syn 5w20 and Motorcraft filter
7) Early on had a recurring rattle in the HVAC vents - after 3 visits they finally replaced the foam between the chrome surrounds
8) Most disappointing issue is the hood paint - several bubble areas that the dealer would not cover because there wasn't any perforation.
9) Replaced springs with Steeda Sports and shocks/struts with Koni's - this was not needed just a preference
10) Have to run Premium fuel because I hear a pinging under hard acceleration and the dealer kept claiming it was bad gas related. Plan to do a CAI and at least get my money's worth from the premium fuel
Need to replace plugs, change rear diff fluid, brake fluid flush, coolant flush and serpentine belt.
Having said all that I still love this car and plan to keep forever. At this point we're only driving her on weekends.
Runs and drives great still but have had a few issues along the way.
1) Replaced fuel pump under warranty in '08
2) Had fuel pump reinstalled in '09 by different dealer
3) OEM Pirellis lasted 60K
4) Replaced rear pads at 65K w/Hawk HPS
5) Replaced front pads and rotors at 95K - pads still had life left! Used Hawk pads again and take-off rotors
6) Changed oil every 5K Mobil 1 full syn 5w20 and Motorcraft filter
7) Early on had a recurring rattle in the HVAC vents - after 3 visits they finally replaced the foam between the chrome surrounds
8) Most disappointing issue is the hood paint - several bubble areas that the dealer would not cover because there wasn't any perforation.
9) Replaced springs with Steeda Sports and shocks/struts with Koni's - this was not needed just a preference
10) Have to run Premium fuel because I hear a pinging under hard acceleration and the dealer kept claiming it was bad gas related. Plan to do a CAI and at least get my money's worth from the premium fuel
Need to replace plugs, change rear diff fluid, brake fluid flush, coolant flush and serpentine belt.
Having said all that I still love this car and plan to keep forever. At this point we're only driving her on weekends.
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