buzz_s281

My check engine light came on today so I took it to AutoZone to have the tech tell me what it was. I think it was code P4430 or something like that and he said it means a "Manufacture's emission control" problem. Does anybody have any idea what this means? The tech said he had never heard of this before. Any help would be appreciated. By the way it is a '96 Saleen S-281, non-SC.

Fordracing200

any recent mods?

GoofNOff

I just went through the same thing 2 weeks ago. This seems to be affecting all 96's right now because I have 3 friends with the same code. I'm pretty sure you're getting a P1443 code which is your EVAP system. If you look at the upper plenum from the passenger side, you will see an air hose coming out the back of it (black with red stripe). Follow the hose to the first sensor it goes to. This sensor is never mentioned in any touble faults but may actually be the original cause of the P1443. It's approx. 20 bucks. 2 hoses, an electrical connection and 20 min. and you're done. Next, continue to follow the hose to it's next connection. This is most probably the bad part. It's the EVAP sensor ($70-80) for the cannister which collects gasses and stores them when you shut the engine down, then reuses those gases on start for pressure. It sits behind the right strut tower. If the solenoid stays open, then the cannister will not store anything and you will soon have start problems occuring i.e the car will start but will immediately shut down. Another part which is probably on the way out because of these items is your IAC ($135.00) which is bolted to the front of your upper plenum. This will cause some serious idle problems after you start the car. Keep in mind the IAC is electrical and cannot be cleaned on the inside so dropping it into a cleaner of somekind is guaranteed to kill it.

I took the long way around and changed the EVAP solenoid first. The car started but idled wildly. So I changed the IAC next and the car ran for a week until the check engine light came on again. That's when I followed that hose and ran into that sensor between the plenum and EVAP solenoid, when I changed that, I test drove the car and the computer cleared itself. I have an OBD II scanner so I can check codes and clear them at home ($150 at Autozone or Advance depending on brand). Hope this helps.

EVAP solenoid - $70-2 hoses, elec tape, electrical connection-time: depends on if you can get your hands down in there.

Air sensor - $20-2 hoses, electrical connection - time: 20 min

IAC - $135-1 hose, 2 bolts, electrical connection - time 20 min

Just make sure you soften the hoses with lubricant before you disco them because they may tear if you don't. Lastly, these parts are not available through Autozone or Advance. They told me it's a Ford only part # and I had to go to Ford. Luckily I've been going to my parts counter for 5 years so theve hooked me up with wholesale prices. Also, I recommend doing this stuff yourself because it's at least $65 an hour anywhere you go.

Eric

buzz_s281

Thanks. I'll see what I can do.

Fordracing200

wow, i was thinking u deleted the cats or something, nice job Eric!

GoofNOff

Thanks, I just don't want to see anybody pay more than they need to for small parts. I met someone who had her IAC changed by Ford and they charged her $85 for the diagnostic, $135 for the part and $400 for time in the garage. 6 bills for two bolts, an electrical connection and an air tube? And we thought gas prices were a problem. :notnice:

Eric

Shea

Goofnoff had good advice. For myself, I had the P1443 code as well on my 98. I did some online research, and it seems the most common part to need replacing was the solenoid (also called a purge valve). In the service manual it talks about how you can test this by applying 12V to the solenoid and then seeing if you can blow through it.

I did this and I could not blow through it. Because it was a dealer only part and the dealer was closed, I figured that I would see if I could get it working. I stuck a nail inside the thing and move the diaphragm up and down. I then beat on it with a wrench, just to knock the motor around a bit. I then reapplied electrical power from the battery, and whaddya know, it worked! I cycled the power off and on a buncha times, blowing through the solenoid the whole time. I then reassembled it, and I have yet to have starting problems or a check engine light since. Hope that helps.