mustanglindsey

Hello! I need some advice for the problem that I'm having with my 2006. It usually happens once a month - I go to start my car and it just won't turn over. It makes a little click and sad noise, and it won't start. The lights and everything else come on, but it doesn't start until the 4th or even the 20th time. It stopped happening for about 5 months, and now its happening again.

I replaced the battery, and the dealership is unable to replicate the issue so they cannot find the problem. Has anyone else had this, or do you have any advice? This is so frustrating :/

Here is the video from today:
**Edited to say the car finally starts at 1:33 in the video**

Paris MkVI

Maybe the mechanics couldn't duplicate it, but now they don't have to. You can show them the video.

ford4v429

a few things- try with headlights on- if they go out, could be a busted battery- I had one with a broken post internally- if i pushed on the post it would crank...

most likely, a corroded cable connection- at this age, likely at the starter, but could be at battery or block ground. after a few 'clicks' they often get hot tightening them temporarily, or the arc welds it up, works for a while

lastly, the ford PMGR(permanent magnet gear reduction) starters have a exposed braided copper conductor from the starter solenoid to the brushes- they are notorious for corroding...imagine that, very fine braided bare copper exposed to road salt/water/etc... if you want to save big bucks, get a new PMGR brush holder off ebay for 10-20 bucks and change it yourself- clean up the starter, put a few drops of oil on the bushings/bendix pop new brush holder(includes brushes and the braided lead) and good to go...takes 15 minutes more than swapping the starter, but saves a couple hundred bucks...similarly for diode blocks/regulators for alternators. autozone wanted 200 for a chinese windstar starter, fixed the ford one for 1/10 that. our 65 galaxie still has its original starter, I cleaned/painted/flipped the solenoid disc, oiled bushings...still crankin 50 years since ford first put it on the car...ive never had a parts store replacement last as long as original- one local junkyard used to offer rebuilding service for like half price of new, and they always lasted longer than replacements...

edit- these can be found as cheap as $5- and can be beter than original, due to tinned wire instead of bare... I pack the exposed wire with vaseline, it pretty much stops corrosion for a few years minimum- but will melt/drip a bit first few starts- use at own risk, could probably burn, but ive never had one light up yet...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STARTER-BRUSH-HOLDER-BRUSH-ASSEMBLY-Ford-PMGR-Starters-Rebuild-Repair-/261211976320?fits=Model%3AMustang&hash=item3cd1727280&vxp=mtr

ford4v429

just watched the video- i didnt hear the click - is it like a little relay click, or louder, like the starter solenoid(little electrical click vs hammer sound)?

could be just a starter relay, clutch or 'park' switch(manual or auto) or a bad PATS relay...from what I saw in the schematics, the PATS (passive anti theft sys) chip-key thing ONLY inhibits the cranking circuits...I never tried yet, but eventually want to get a non-chipped key and see if I could roll/push start the car- pretty sure it will run.
on the PATS, having too many chip keys or metallic stuff n the rings can potentially block or confuse the RFID reader- sounded like there was a lot of stuff on that key ring- that can cause mechanical damage to the keyed part of the switch too- i hit a bump one day in my f150, keys fell out, never ever needed a key to start after that day

houtex

My guess is the PATS sensor in the ignition cylinder, or the ignition cylinder itself, is shot. Not to be an irritant, but likely due to the extra weight of all those extra keys you have hanging on that poor thing.

Get the car's keys on a separate key ring to avoid overstressing the ignition cylinder and/or PATS sensor, and also get the correct part replaced.

Here's a hopefully helpful video for ya:


Good luck!

05YellowGT

I was having random problems where the starter wouldn't do anything when I turned the key on. It turned out to be the board in relay box in the engine compartment, sometimes the starter relay wasn't making contact because of it. Prior to that I also had problems with the switch on the clutch pedal, might check that too.