K punched a hole in cylinder 2,installed new head,re-installed everything EXACTLY as it came off. I went as far as to take pictures of areas I may have problems with. Car now has no power,has a noticeable miss. I have replaced every coil pack and alternated with known functioning packs,wiring harness has no kinks or pinches. There isn't a vacuum leak as I have checked every vacuum line twice. Swapped plugs with known good plugs. I don't know what to check next. This car would rip rubber thru 3 gears now I can barely get a chirp with a 1st gear dump. What do I do next

 

Get a compression test set bro. Check compression first man. There may be a valve leaking by.

 

Ha.....I just bought one. How exactly do I screw it in. **** sohc heads. And honestly the heads I put on were in tip top shape. I bought new cams. Install in a couple weeks. I will give it a shot. Thanks al. Love ya

 

Kill the ignition source and the fuel. Spin it with the gauge in a cylinder and just compare. Shouldn't have to be running to test it. This test alone should give answers enough to go from.

 

K...heading outside

 

Make sure you hold the throttle wide open when you do the test. You need to have an unrestricted flow of air to the cyl to get a true reading. 3-4 revolutions of the engine should be enough to.

 

Throttle position shouldn't make any difference. Honestly no offense 197.

 

Oh but it will, a closed throttle plate will restrict air flow to the cylinders and not allow as much into the cylinder as when it is wide open. The more air in the cyl the higher the pressue. Let me put it this way, does the same amount of air enter the cylinder at idle as at WOT?

 

True it won't hurt at all. Just not really necessary as long as all cylinders are tested the same and the engine is just cranking. Won't hurt either way though.

 

Agreed, if you don't know the spec. range then it really doesn't matter. You can compare good cylinder to bad ones and if they are all similar than it can be assumed you are good. However if you know the spec range for a 2000 4.6 is say 150-180psi and you get 130 with the throttle closed then you may believe you have an issue where with it open you may see 160 and then the cyl would be considered healthy depending on engine mileage etc.

As a side note you should also have all spark plugs removed... you want the engine spinning at the highest RPM possiable

 

Yep agreed. Hoping that compression is not your issue anyway Ev. Good luck bro.

 

Beat me to the punch.

Cam timing one tooth off...

 

K 162 in cylinders 1 and 2 173 in 3 and 4. Finishing a beer and gonna check the other side. I am thinking it's gotta be some retarded sensor

 

Ha....I got smart and unplugged the injectors too.

 

Hope so too man. And beer always helps.

 

Do you know what the codes mean?

Cam & crank sensors can go bad. That could trigger an error code, but the miss implies something more than a bad/unplugged sensor.

 

Ya...p300 is random misfire,p301 is misfire in cylinder 1 p302 is misfire in cylinder 2. Sometimes p304 pops up too. I checked the other bank and 5-8 are between 170-175. So I am going to eliminate compression as a problem. And I rechecked 1 and 2 and they are just under 170. Next idea

 

Cam timing. I marked the cam gear and chain and turned it over by hand. That is a possibility. Oh god I hope not tho

 

I'm sticking with cam timing. The engine does run which shows fuel and fire are good.

 

Possible. However painful an idea. I am putting in stage 2 cams in a few weeks. I guess I will get a chance to try again. Thanks Charlie.