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Was intending to join something like this at some point but it's now got urgent.
I have a 2001 V6 convertible here in England that's been sat around in storage a lot and been fiddled with by idiots.
I'm hoping the collective experience here will point me in the right direction
I've been using it the last couple of days and it's been fine but something doesn't seem quite right
To start it, you have to turn the ignition to on or run but at this point the gauges do nothing - you then have to turn it off and on again quickly
then the all the needles do the sweep and return thing - it will now start and run fine - this can't be right can it?
Today - did this as usual and all was fine - went to the supermarket and when I got back in it, could not get the gauges to do the sweep and back thing
and it won't start
Winds over fine but the fuel pump doesn't run exactly as happens if it's immobilised but no flashing theft light - gave up and got it recovered
Just hoping someone has experienced something like this and can offer some advice
Hello,
Have you Checked out the Ignition Switch? This Particular Part Number Switch was Problematic back in the Day. They would Separate and Cause all kind of Issues and they are Plastic. They really failed a lot on Vehicles which had Extra Accessories tied into switch. They would usually have Hot spots on some of the Terminals upon Inspection. This Switch was used from the Early 80's to Probably Mid 2000's I sold a Lot of them. Ford Number F4DZ-11572-B
Interesting you should point to the ignition switch
Have already had it apart and cleaned all the contacts when it first arrived - nut that there looked to be anything wrong
A bit of colour on some of the contacts but nothing like burns or corrosion
Any way - have ordered a new one but will have the column apart again and have a look
What do you think to the idea of replacing most of it with relays which can be triggered with much lower current?
This idea occured when I first saw what a total crock of sh** the whole design was - not just the switch, but the way the lock barrel is connected to it
So the flicking the key off then on again is not how it should be?
I'll get into it later and let you know how it goes
Thankfuly, I got hold of a set of factoy workshop manuals so went through the various check and measurements
and borrowed a diagnostic tool that comunicates with the various modules.
Turns out the instrument pack appears to be the problem - is this a common issue?
Seems that replacing this means I need a matching key as well - woud I need anything else?
Seriously conssidering going to a "stand alone" self programable ECU to get away from this stupidity
Anyone have any experience in this area?
Thank you - that gives a little hope and some incentive to get it apart and have a look.
It may well be the circuit board as it is completey shut down - only warning lights working and
does not respond to the scan tool at all
Just to be sure, I checked the other modules and the tool worked ok
My plan is to replace the V6 with a Jaguar XJR supercharged V8 - also have a 53 F100 pickup which is also going to have the Jag engine
Thought as I have to learn all about programing a stand alone ECU - I would split the learning experience over the two projects
Allthough there are some different labels, it is all at the heart of it, still Ford
I'm not quite ready to get into it so I need to try and keep this thing going without spending too much just for a couple of months
Looks like there are dash packs for sale at realistic prices so if that's how it goes, it's not the end of the world
Any idea what's involved in getting a new unit programed?
On A Side Note,
Consider your Self Lucky you can do the Engine Swap! Here in Commifornia! We Still Have to SMOG check our Vehicles back to 1976. So No Engine Swaps Unless 1975 Prior. Laws are different here in Ca. It Sucks! No Mods Unless Exempted by CARB# California Air Resources Board. Lucky if you can Do a Cold Air & Tune!
Last edited by 05stangkc; Jul 30, 2022 at 06:41 AM.
I did about 6 years in the Royal Air Force pretty much straight out of school so I had some good teaching
Done a lot of different things since - almost always in engineering and mostly with cars or trucks
more or less retired now - spent the last 20 years restoring vintage Bentley's mainly repairing priceless bits or making new ones
Over the years i've gathered a lot of tools and equipment as well as the skills to use them
Guess it's the same there - all the propper people know eachother so if it's something I can' t do - can usually find someone who can
As for solving the current problem - time will tell
Are problems with intrument packs common - given the quantity for sale - lookslike there is a demand?
I've had a couple of SN95's in the past - both 4.6 GT but 96 I think - would I be right in thinking they do not have PATS?
never had a momet's trouble from either of them
On an entirely different subject - does anyone have a LHD steering rack to suit a Jaguar XJ8 X308?
The Clusters are Fairly Problematic. FOMOCO usually Stops Servicing them at the Dealer Level around 15 Years.
Pats Started in 1996 But Not on All Cars Produced. A Lot of Fleet Vehicles Such as Police Did not Use it Cause they Needed One Key Code to Fit all Cruisers! My 06 Police Interceptor Does not Have it!
Sorry Don't Know about a Jag Rack!
Oh and As We Say to Our Military in the States!
{THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE}
SALUTE!
See Pics For Key Styles! Ez Way to See if it was PATS!
KC NON PATS KEY Top EARLY PATS KEY Middle 2005-2009 PATS KEY MUSTANG Bottom
Last edited by 05stangkc; Aug 4, 2022 at 06:13 AM.
Oddly enough - the one with the off centre hole which I think you say is none PATS is what all 3 of my keys look like
I have 2 genuine keys and one that has no logo - pattern?
On the genuine keys, you can clearly see where the chip is hidden - the coppy must be moulded in - you can't see anything
On another subject - you all probably know this already - got a couple of Chines remote fobs and they work well
Swapped a genuine circuit board into the chines case and that work well too - guess we'll see how long that remains the case
This thing needs lowering - any body have any words of wisdom - stuff that's good - stuff to avoid?
Top is Non Pats, Center is Early Pats and Bottom Is 05-09 Pats. Relabeled Pics to be Clearer.
Sorry on the Lowering Question not something I have done Personally on That Vintage Stang. But I would Consider the Weight of the Engine Swap Before Lowering if you are going to proceed, May Solve itself at Least Partially.
Anybody with Some Good LOWERING Tips Please Chime in!
I Used to Sell Steeda Back in the Day and They are Worth a Check Out!
The Jag engine is all aluminium so would bet it's lighter than the V6
It's 375bhp as is with poor headers and catalists - should be able to coax it closer to 450 without too much trouble
so you see why I'm doing this
Don't know if you guys know this but the engine Jaguar inhereted originally came from the Lincoln LS
It's part of the family that includes the TDV6 and TDV8 engines as well as the petrol 4 litre - 4.2 and 5 litre
Had a better look at the front suspension and the geometry is shocking - lever lengths and angles are poor to start with
and lowering would make this worse
I'm thinking that swapping this for the Jag set-up which is not a million miles away might be the way to go
It's twin wishbone and the coil spring is in the sub frame just like the Mustang - width is about right too
Jag engine is front drop sump - oil pan - which would be an issue with the existing sub frame and rack set-up
changing the sub frame would solve this too - the rack runs across the back
Thing is - needs to be a LHD which I'm not going to find here - plenty there just expensive to ship due to the size and weight
It's loads of work but the end result should justify it
We'll see if I still feel the same once I get into it
Still waiting for the dash to arrive but the scan tool is here
Looks like you have to register it so we'll see what kind of a game that is
If it all works ok - I'll stick all the info on here because it''s not expensive and it could prospectively save a lot of cash and hassle
If I can get it fixed - want to use the car for what's left of summer and get into the swap over the winter
There is something that might interest people which I can share and sort some pictures
This thing came with masive wheels - 19" - 8" front and 10" rear - and not especially attractive
I already have a set of 7 1/2 x 18 - new with tyres which look much better but the off-sets are 40 - no where near what the Mustang needs
So bought some spacers - the cheapest I could find the right thickness then machined the centres to suit
Couldn't get an exact fit here - had to sleeve and machine 2 of them and swap studs
Got to go - will see what I can do on the pictures
You'd think buying some wheel spacers would be easy but not to suit the Mustang in the UK
Didn't want to spend a fortune so got some near enough and modified them to suit
Wanted 40mm on the rear but was looking at £115 ($135) for a pair - found a set of 4 at 35mm for £60 ($70) which is close enough and had the correct 70.5 centre location.
Had UNF studs so had to change to M12x1.5 because that's what the fancy sleeve nuts that came with the wheels are
This one is 35mm with the 70.5 centre for the rear so just had to change the studs - yea - right!
Turns out the new studs need a slightly lager hole - so pressed all the studs out - drilled them to 14mm - about half a mm larger but enough to be a problem - pressed the new metric studs in
This one is 20mm for the front with the correct 114 PCD but with a 67mm centre location - best I could find - £70 ($84) for these two
To get the centre from 67 to 70 - machined up a ring then pressed it on with green "never to move again" thread lock
Let it go off over night to be sure then machined to the 70.5 required
This thick wall alloy tube is absolutely brilliant for this kind of thing - it's readily available and just buying a short length is easy on ebay - well handy for hose adaptors too
You can see the difference here between the original 67mm bore and the 70.5 I bored it out to
On to the next challenge - can't get spigot ring the correct size to fit the stock 73mm in the wheel to the 70.5 on the hub
Had to go with 73 to 70.3 - you'd think that might be close enough but no - when it's in the wheel the hub doesn't go in and if you stretch it over the hub, the wheel won't go on
Yep - you guessed it - more alloy tube machined very accurately so the plastic ring fits snug - then with a shiny new tip in the boring bar - take very gentle cuts - and that's all there it so it folks!
Been waiting for bits to turn up ~ dash arrived all good thanks to "Jessie's auto recycling"
Have managed to get the keys programmed but can't do the milage ~ yes it was a right drama but we'll come back to that
Today's problem ~ sorry ~challenge is the rear window defrost switch
It seems to have failed but it's permanently on? even with the ignition off
Anyone have any experience of this? Reading the gospel according to Ford seem like it's just the switch and a new one will fix it
Great Attention to Detail on the Wheel Adapters! I can only Imagine the Fab Skills you will Use to do that Engine Swap! Sorry I have no Personal Experience on the Defog Issue. The Mileage Change on the Cluster would most Likely be a Send out to a Specialist such as these Guys!
