timing and vacuums
#41
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hmmm. check 10 pin connectors, we call them the salt/pepper shaker looking plugs located behind the intake on the fire wall side. They can cause issues when moved around, they are temperamental.
Disconnect the neg. battery cable. To disconnect them squeeze the side clips and pull apart. Use a small pick to squeeze the female terminal slightly closed ( this will help tighten teh connection). next slightly spread the male terminals open. spray the plugs with electric parts cleaner and then add dielectric grease. reconnect.
This may or may not help but the 10 pin can be a source of quirks and are known for having a poor connection.
we will keep going if needed just be patient.
Keep the chevy motor out of the mustang.
Disconnect the neg. battery cable. To disconnect them squeeze the side clips and pull apart. Use a small pick to squeeze the female terminal slightly closed ( this will help tighten teh connection). next slightly spread the male terminals open. spray the plugs with electric parts cleaner and then add dielectric grease. reconnect.
This may or may not help but the 10 pin can be a source of quirks and are known for having a poor connection.
we will keep going if needed just be patient.
Keep the chevy motor out of the mustang.
#42
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hmmm. check 10 pin connectors, we call them the salt/pepper shaker looking plugs located behind the intake on the fire wall side. They can cause issues when moved around, they are temperamental.
Disconnect the neg. battery cable. To disconnect them squeeze the side clips and pull apart. Use a small pick to squeeze the female terminal slightly closed ( this will help tighten teh connection). next slightly spread the male terminals open. spray the plugs with electric parts cleaner and then add dielectric grease. reconnect.
This may or may not help but the 10 pin can be a source of quirks and are known for having a poor connection.
we will keep going if needed just be patient.
Keep the chevy motor out of the mustang.
Disconnect the neg. battery cable. To disconnect them squeeze the side clips and pull apart. Use a small pick to squeeze the female terminal slightly closed ( this will help tighten teh connection). next slightly spread the male terminals open. spray the plugs with electric parts cleaner and then add dielectric grease. reconnect.
This may or may not help but the 10 pin can be a source of quirks and are known for having a poor connection.
we will keep going if needed just be patient.
Keep the chevy motor out of the mustang.
Lol. Yeah i was just joking :-P
#44
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#45
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Still sounds like timing to me.
When you set the crank to 10 btdc make sure you are not atdc. It will be the 10* mark before you get to 0* rotating the motor clockwise. You must make sure you are on the compression stroke when setting this. You can pull the number 1 plug (closest front on passenger side) and put your finger over the hole. You will feel the compression when you are on the proper stroke.
Now stab the dizzy so the the rotor is pointing at the number one plug. Keep in mind that the rotor will move slightly when stabbing the dizzy.
Once you see its going to be the right tooth and the dizzy starts sticking on the oil pump. You can turn the crank a hair more by hand and the dizzy will drop down when the it aligns with the oil pump shaft.
Now you can turn the dizzy a bit if u need to to make sure its pointing exactly at the #1 plug wire. It would also be a good idea to make sure all the wires are on correct by the pic you posted. It only takes 2 of them mixxed up to cause havok.
Now make sure the spout connector is removed and hook up your timing light.
Fire it up and set the timing. Then shout the car back off. Re-install the spout and viola!!
P.s. this procedure is about identical on a 305 besides the dizzy is in the back and the firing order is different. But same steps.
When you set the crank to 10 btdc make sure you are not atdc. It will be the 10* mark before you get to 0* rotating the motor clockwise. You must make sure you are on the compression stroke when setting this. You can pull the number 1 plug (closest front on passenger side) and put your finger over the hole. You will feel the compression when you are on the proper stroke.
Now stab the dizzy so the the rotor is pointing at the number one plug. Keep in mind that the rotor will move slightly when stabbing the dizzy.
Once you see its going to be the right tooth and the dizzy starts sticking on the oil pump. You can turn the crank a hair more by hand and the dizzy will drop down when the it aligns with the oil pump shaft.
Now you can turn the dizzy a bit if u need to to make sure its pointing exactly at the #1 plug wire. It would also be a good idea to make sure all the wires are on correct by the pic you posted. It only takes 2 of them mixxed up to cause havok.
Now make sure the spout connector is removed and hook up your timing light.
Fire it up and set the timing. Then shout the car back off. Re-install the spout and viola!!
P.s. this procedure is about identical on a 305 besides the dizzy is in the back and the firing order is different. But same steps.
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#46
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Right. Yeah i know how to do it. Its just not firing up. I didn't mess with any of my plug wires or anything like that and it ran fine before so i know that's not the problem. Im going to try to get a friend of mine who is a big time ford guy to come over and set me straight
#47
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It means Key on Engine off. Also curios are you looking at the pointer through the hole or setting along the straight edge of the pointer? the pointer does confuse some people.
you want the timing mark along the top edge like this..
![](http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g303/AdderMk2/properindication.jpg)
some guys have gotten the timing off by putting the timing mark on different spots of the pointer.
you want the timing mark along the top edge like this..
![](http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g303/AdderMk2/properindication.jpg)
some guys have gotten the timing off by putting the timing mark on different spots of the pointer.
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It means Key on Engine off. Also curios are you looking at the pointer through the hole or setting along the straight edge of the pointer? the pointer does confuse some people.
you want the timing mark along the top edge like this..
some guys have gotten the timing off by putting the timing mark on different spots of the pointer.
you want the timing mark along the top edge like this..
some guys have gotten the timing off by putting the timing mark on different spots of the pointer.
#49
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Think i may have figured it out but won't know til i get home and give it a try tomorrow.
I think i may be pulling vacuum through the upper plenum.
I didn't get bolts with my trick flow intake manifold. So i used my stock bolts. Well the heads on them are too big so i could only get 3 in and i have 3 that aren't in. Gonna go buy new bolts and tighten them down and give it a whirl.
I think i may be pulling vacuum through the upper plenum.
I didn't get bolts with my trick flow intake manifold. So i used my stock bolts. Well the heads on them are too big so i could only get 3 in and i have 3 that aren't in. Gonna go buy new bolts and tighten them down and give it a whirl.
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Wasn't it... still wants to fire but won't. Timing is 10* btc on compression stroke, rotor button is pointing at #1 plug on dizzy. Tried a tooth advanced and a tooth retarded, also tried 180* out. No luck. Gotta have a ford mechanic come check it out on Saturday.
#53
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Finally got the mechanic to come over... i didn't have a vacuum on my map sensor. Now it's running and driving but it is flooding itself while driving at a steady idle every once in a while. Probably still have some vacuums mixed up. Still gotta work out the kinks, but i can drive it
#57
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Good call... ill check it tomorrow. im sure more than one is soaked. Haha i just gave away some spare 19lb injectors too from a 4.6 i pulled from my derby car.
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