Tech Question: 86 5.0 wont start/run. Details inside
#1
Tech Question: 86 5.0 wont start/run. Details inside
Here goes...The car was sitting for quite some time and the last time I parked it it ran/started just fine. Obviously the battery had died so I installed a new one. When I went to start it so I can move it/sell it it would crank and crank but not run. After some troubleshooting I found that I didn't have spark at the distributer nor did the fuel pump energize. The next day I decided to try again but the new battery was stone dead. I get another new battery and intall it and now I get nothing...no lights, accessories...nothing. Test light shows power but nothing...
Cables/Terminals are in great shape
Few Ideas/questions.
Is the solenoid cabable of prevening accessory power from making it to the car? Test light shows power.
I know the fuel/spark issues prevented it from running but now I have no power getting into the car at all.
Any ideas?
Cables/Terminals are in great shape
Few Ideas/questions.
Is the solenoid cabable of prevening accessory power from making it to the car? Test light shows power.
I know the fuel/spark issues prevented it from running but now I have no power getting into the car at all.
Any ideas?
#4
after I put the new battery in the first time it cranked but never ran. No fuel no spark. I left it for the next day to do more analysis but the new battery was drained/dead. I just bought another battery and hooked it all up but now it doesn't even crank now...nothing no lights or accessories either.
Test light shows voltage at the solenoid but I have nothing in the car. I'm stumped.
Test light shows voltage at the solenoid but I have nothing in the car. I'm stumped.
#5
Check your coil. Had a similar problem with my car a couple of weeks ago. Pulled it out of the garage and backed it in to adjust the headlights, finished with that, went inside to get ready for work and came back to the car and all it would do is turn over. I also replaced the control module but it turned out it was the coil.
#9
I had a similar problem with my last '86 5.0 Capri, and it was indeed the ignition control module (as far as cranking and not starting), but it didn't drain my battery. That's were I'm drawing a blank. If it's not even cranking now, then yeah Skip I agree with you. Heck, I'd even replace the Starter Solenoid for good measure.
#10
redfire....one last stab! do you have a small wire going from the ground on your battery terminal to the inside fender? If so, unhook it from the inner fender and clean it up good with either sandpaper, or a small file. make sure there's no paint from the fender in behind the connection. That will even stop it from getting a proper ground. make sure it's metal to metal. Sometimes from sitting, the end will get corroded just enough that your car won't start, but you can't see it. When you turn your ignition there's nothing. It's happened to me before. Beside what everyones mentioned here, there's not to much left.
#11
Originally Posted by Merlot
redfire....one last stab! do you have a small wire going from the ground on your battery terminal to the inside fender? If so, unhook it from the inner fender and clean it up good with either sandpaper, or a small file. make sure there's no paint from the fender in behind the connection. That will even stop it from getting a proper ground. make sure it's metal to metal. Sometimes from sitting, the end will get corroded just enough that your car won't start, but you can't see it. When you turn your ignition there's nothing. It's happened to me before. Beside what everyones mentioned here, there's not to much left.
Now I'm still stuck on no cranking right now...unless the new battery is dead. I gotta put a voltmeter on it.
#12
try the ignition switch. i had the same problem on my 90 4 cly. sometimes t would try to crank and other times it wouldnt turn over and sometimes it would start just fine. if you wiggled the key just right it would start everytime
#13
Sounds to me like a bad battery cable has corroded on the inside with green nasty looking stuff.
It could also be that the main wire harness thru the fire wall has shorted some how. Moving wires around gently with a good battery and everything on at the same time. may give you a way to find what is shorting. Does the horn work? You'll need a second person to watch for things such a dom lights and such while the other wiggles around wires esp battery cables.
a 12 volt test light could also be of help
CAUTION make the tranny is in park with automatic and nuetral with a standard
Back in the day cars were real easy to hot wire.
once upon a time you had a single coil with three wires .
1 big wire in middle that went to the distributer
this left 2 little wires on the coil.
1 little went to the distributer.
this leaves one little one left
It went to the ignition or battery ( This is the one that you put an extra jumper wire on direct to the positive post on the battery) This should turn on your dash pre ignition lights on. You may also hear a click sound as you hook it up under your hood. Than all you needed was either a push start (standard tranny) or a screw driver to short the fire wall cylinoid.
hope this helps keep us posted
CAUTION make sure tranny is in nuetral with a standard.
and park with an automatic
It could also be that the main wire harness thru the fire wall has shorted some how. Moving wires around gently with a good battery and everything on at the same time. may give you a way to find what is shorting. Does the horn work? You'll need a second person to watch for things such a dom lights and such while the other wiggles around wires esp battery cables.
a 12 volt test light could also be of help
CAUTION make the tranny is in park with automatic and nuetral with a standard
Back in the day cars were real easy to hot wire.
once upon a time you had a single coil with three wires .
1 big wire in middle that went to the distributer
this left 2 little wires on the coil.
1 little went to the distributer.
this leaves one little one left
It went to the ignition or battery ( This is the one that you put an extra jumper wire on direct to the positive post on the battery) This should turn on your dash pre ignition lights on. You may also hear a click sound as you hook it up under your hood. Than all you needed was either a push start (standard tranny) or a screw driver to short the fire wall cylinoid.
hope this helps keep us posted
CAUTION make sure tranny is in nuetral with a standard.
and park with an automatic
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