The only area you might have trouble if you don't have air tools is the front struts...otherwise installation is easy...the rear shocks are easy as well.

If you are looking for used springs or swaybars just PM me, I have many take-off parts in stock here in my shop and can get you the right parts you need.

 

you guys know of any install tuts out there for the shocks/struts?

 

im going to work on the rear since there easy,but where do i start. Can someone explain the process thanks

 

first I would pop out the access panels to the top of the shocks in the rear hatch area and remove the nut

jack the rear up and support it with jack stands, you'll see where the bottom of the shock mounts to the axle, take those bolts out and your shock should come out

guide the threaded rod of the new shock up through hole in the wheel well so it pops up into that access panel in the hatch

you'll probably have to compress the shock by hand a little to fit the bottom mounting hole in the bracket on the axle tube, once you have the holes lined up put your bolt through it and tighten it

go back to the top of the shock through that access panel and tighten the nut down on top of the shock and you're done


its been 3 years since I did my shocks so I may have forgotten some details but I'm pretty sure thats enough to guide you through it. Be prepared for possibly rusty/stripped bolts so make sure you have another car if you need to run to the parts or hardware store for anything

 

hatch meaning notch? so get it from the trunk?

 

um, a hatchback car has a rear hatch, a notchback is a trunk model fox, if you have a notch the access panels should be inside the trunk



see the wheel wells in the rear hatch area?? see those circles on the wheel wells? pop those out and you have access to the top of your shock

 

Oh, and make sure the threaded rod/shaft on the shock doesn't rotate while you're tightening the nut and securing it to the mounting point in the trunk area. You'll want that as seated as can be - otherwise the nut could work itself loose, something like that recently happened to someone I know...

 

Since when do people call a trunk a hatch? anyway, finished the install and it took 10min for both sides

The struts that were on before were dead!! and i mean dead!! My 3 year old girl compressed it and it just stood compressed!!! no spring back, it just stood compressed!!

O.K so now for the front, how much harder is it for it? thanks

 

The front struts are also simple, but you should get a good spring compressor for the job since there is the danger of having the springs suddenly come flying out and seriously injuring someone - or worse - if the front control arm should suddenly be released from tension after loosening the strut retaining nut on the top or the ones securing it to the spindle. Definitely use something to prevent the rubber brake lines from getting stretched (don't let the caliper/spindle assembly hang). They may look fine externally, but the inside of the lines could get damaged. Get the car aligned afterward.

 

OK I've tried to understand you through all your posts but I can't bite my tongue anymore. A hatchback is like that picture of my car, its got a giant "door" in the back which includes the rear window, a notchback mustang has a short steep angled rear window and has a trunk... what do you not understand about that???

Shocks in the rear, struts in the front. That was the same exact condition of my front struts that I described earlier, they froze up and had no rebound....

We already told you the struts are easy, just do 'em.

 

WTF are you talking about,you think i dont know the difference between a notch and a hatch? Do me a favor and dont reply to any of my threads or posts.

 

Your lack of grammar and coherent sentences make it hard to understand your posts. I'm not trying to be mean, I'm just stating that the way you type I can't understand what you're talking about... and then just what exactly did you mean with all that talk about hatches and trunks???

You came into the fox section and asked for our opinion on if you should even buy that car, we all told you its not worth it and you bought it anyway and look at all the money and work you've had to put into it already. That salesman was laughing all the way to the bank. We all tried to help you and you asked the same questions over and over and even SVOPaul came in and guided you but you act like none of our advice was good enough. So if you don't want to learn about foxbodies just stick with your s197

 

If you love to tinker on your day off on your car like I do, just pick some warm day with your favorite beverage , some ambition , and tools in hand and just enjoy the small challenge that it is. While you are there, if you haven't done it already, change your sway-bar links too. It will make the job go faster and smoother with them out of the way .Support the car at the frame rail under your feet with jack-stands and leave the jack at the lower control arm ( lower " A " frame ) and lift it just enough at the control arm to contact it so as to prevent the loss of the brake hose and spring.But if you choose to replace the springs too, just lower the jack slowly and let the weight off the control arm to get the travel needed to remove the spring. Don't worry about the spring flying out and hurting you. It won't do that. When the control arm is all the way down, the spring has maybe 1/2 inch of travel left in it. Just take your foot and push further down on the arm and with your hands, jerk the spring out of the lower spring pocket at the control arm . Before doing this, take note of where the end of the coil spring seats in the control arm. Place the end of the new coil as close to the same location as the old one. When setting the new spring next to the old one, don't panic if the old spring is longer than the new one. Ride height will be stock because the new spring is stronger despite being shorter.

 

Depending on where your budget is at after buying the aforementioned parts, I would also replace your rubber bushings (if hey are worn out) with polyurethane ones. That will also help the ride to a degree...

 

I couldn't agree with Valentino more...While everyone has their own opinion, you have to remember where you are getting your advice from. SVOPaul is extremely educated when it comes to fox bodies and more...this is what he does for a living! Plus, don't forget everyone else that is a member of this forum that have dealt with the same stuff you are with your car...most of us have been in the same boat and have done what you are looking for advice towards, hence why each era of Mustangs is separated by section. This is the most informative forum that I have ever been a part of, and the people on here are very nice. This isn't your typical car forum where people who don't know what they are talking about give bad advice.

With that being said, it doesn't mean you have to take all of the advice everyone on here gives, but I would at least take it all in and consider it, then make your own decisions. And be courteous to everyone because they are going out of their way to help you by taking time out of their day to look at these posts.

 

Thanks for all your help

 

sure how many miles are on your car .....oh never mind