luvthe440Aroush

ok well here's the set up:

320Hp longblock from fordracingparts.com with a B303 cam
trickflow intake (2,500RPM-6,500)
MAC straight shot mass air cold air intake
75mm mass airflow sensor for 24 or 30# injectors (havent decided yet)
24 or 30# injectors
155lph or 195lph fuel pump
super HD T-5 tranny 600 ft.lbs. capacity
3:55 gears
BBK equal leangth shorty headers
BBK hi-flow off road h pipe
flowmaster cat back american thunder system with delta flow 40 series mufflers
reprogrammed ecu for max potential power and to make sure everything works apppropretly


and then in the future for the car (your second prediction):

drop forged pistions and crank in
throw on some trickflow twisted wedge heads
9 or 14 psi procharger maybe only 6 (give your opinion)
edelbrock performer 5.0 intake (2500-6500)
posiibly might throw on an X303 cam but i dont think so
and finally 42# maybe higher injectors with maybe a 255lph fuel pump

MustangFanatic

For the N/A combination, 275-285 RWHP and 320+ ft/lbs torque. For the S/C combination, 400+ RWHP.

Also, there is little difference betweent the Trickflow intake and the Edelbrock, so why go to the trouble and expense of switching? Both operate in the same RPM range and flow similar numbers on the flowbench. Besides, if you want to install Trickflow heads, keeping to the Trickflow intake only makes sense. You can always upgrade to a Track Heat or R-Series intake to match the cylinder heads.

Regarding the fuel pump, put the big 255 lph pump in now if you plan on S/C later, you are just wasting time and money to install two different pumps. With the return style pumps in 5.0L 'Stangs, the extra fuel will just be returned to the tank. If you were concerned about that issue, go ahead and install a 255 and Kenne-Bell's Boost-a-Pump and turn down the voltage to the pump making it act like a smaller pump.

63galaxie

i agree with Mustangfanatic on HP...
I have the same exhaust system on my car except i have Magnaflow's on my car and they work really well so stick with that for sure

luvthe440Aroush

how come my hp would come in low when the long block is advertised at 320hp its that with like top quality intake and mass air or somthin? if so how much would a long block advertised at 345 hp give me?


also do you think the hyper pistons would support like 9 lbs of boost or would you drop to 6 or even no S/C?

any different suggestions on the engine that wouldnt cost much more?
and would you reccomend my selcted intake or a 0-5500 RPM one?

MustangFanatic

The HP numbers I quoted were rear wheel horsepower numbers, most engines are advertised as producing flywheel HP without accessories. After you install the engine in the car with all the accessories you lose HP. It costs HP to drive the accessories and you also lose HP through drive train loss, it takes HP to turn the transmission. A manual costs a lot less HP than an automatic. The engine will be producing in excess of 320 HP but only 275 or so will make it to the rear wheels.

You should be able to run a 9 lbs kit with hyper pistons if it is tuned properly. Without the proper tune, even the best forged piston in the world won't stand up to detonation. My advice, if you really want to go the SC route eventually, spend the extra money for a quality forged piston and a good crank, it will pay major dividends later. One major lesson I have learned is to spend the money to do it right the first time rather than redoing the same thing multiple times. Build a solid foundation with a quality short block and avoid problems and rework later.

Regarding the intake, what is your plan for the car? street only? street/strip? strip only? road course? If you plan to run the car on the street with an occasional trip to the drag strip, the rpm range for the manifold should be idle to 6,000 rpm. You will rarely see over 5,000 on the street and buying a high rpm manifold will only leave you disappointed in terms of performance. The major benefit of an EFI 5.0L is the low rpm torque hit and for that a long runner EFI manifold that peaks at 5,500 is optimal.

luvthe440Aroush

well i want to thank you for your information you have helped me alot in understanding a build i thought i had all figured out.

but, i know i will lose that hp and everything but will i still lose that much with the good intake and full free flowing exhuast and cold air intake, i figured i would gain most of it back and be at about 330rwhp...and if it doesnt what would you suggest in the bolt on category to improve the perofrmance?

luvthe440Aroush

i just played arround with an online hp predictor make up some predicted #'s and it says i lose about 60hp on the way to the rear wheels...so i understand where you are comming from now

luvthe440Aroush

in that case what transmission would you suggest or just stick with the one i have planned?

and also how much rwhp do you think i'de pick up from gasket matched ported and polished intake and heads?

63galaxie

you pick up quite a bit from smoother ports...
your tranny sounds good or you could get a C4 it'll take a lot of abuse...same with a C6 if you want an auto

luvthe440Aroush

no way i wiould want an auto

MustangFanatic

At the horsepower level you are looking at, a Super HD T5 will be fine as long as you use a good shifter. A Tremec is a more durable transmission for sure but doesn't shift quite a smoothly and has heavier internals hence it takes more energy to turn.

I think you have covered most of the major bases. Long tube headers combined with an X- or H-pipe would provide a double benefit, more top end HP and more low speed torque. A light weight aluminum flywheel will also aid in reducing parasitic loss and allow more of the power produced by your engine to reach the rear tires. Underdrive pulleys will also free up a few HP but some have experienced charging issues with big stereos or lots of low speed driving. Port and polish will aid some HP but many of the heads and intakes come optimized from the manufacturer so that doesn't represent the type of gains they once did. More compression is always a way to add HP but in a daily driver that can be expensive since it requires higher fuel. Of course, there are other choices but the expense elevates exponentially. Hope that helps

MustangFanatic

One other thing to consider is a stroker short block from someone like DSS. Adding cubes will boost HP and torque. Plus DSS and others prep their short blocks so they are prepared for abuse. Just another thought.