Griggs Suspension questions/concerns
#1
Griggs Suspension questions/concerns
I recently purchased an 88 Coupe with what was advertised as a Coilover suspension. I didn't really care as I was more concerned with the condition of the car. Well I've got it now, and it rides extremly rough. Through help from Maximum Motorsports, it was identified as a Griggs Coilover up front and a HD Lower control arm in the rear, with adjustable perch and swaybar mount.
Do the Koni 30's have a reputation of providing a harsh ride, even on the lowest adjusted setting? I've never really experienced a "harsh" ride that was mainly due to a strut, even a stiff one, like I have right now, so I'm hoping the spring rates are a large portion of the problem.
Here are some pics. The guy from MM told me I should be able to get the spring rates off the springs, but neither was legible. The fronts may have had it at the top, and the rears did have it at one point, but the metal on metal had worn it off. Here's the pics.
The car.
![](http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/2230/img6780il4.th.jpg)
The front suspension. I loosened the spring right off to try and read a stamp on the bottom, but it wasn't there, or it was at the top.
![](http://img471.imageshack.us/img471/7082/img6783qc0.th.jpg)
Rear as it was once I lower the axle.
![](http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/1882/img6784xp3.th.jpg)
If you notice in the previous photo, once down the rear spring fals out, as the bottom perch is like a hat sitting ontop of a nut. Its not secured at all and it all basically falls right out. Is that right!!!!?? I don't get it.
![](http://img471.imageshack.us/img471/7184/img6785fp9.th.jpg)
Closeup of the lower arm. I'm confident it is a Griggs setup, so I've contacted them for some tips.
![](http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/6572/img6787mh6.th.jpg)
Griggs has not gotten back to me, and the ride is now better with upper and lower isolators back there, but overall the ride is still very rough. And the lower perch will always be sitting metal on metal, which means the squeaking and creaking is destined to stay.
Can anyone shed some light on whether that setup is right as it sits? If you have an idea of proper springs rates I'd like to hear it as well. I want an improved ride over stock, but right now its ridiculous.
Finally, reading the literature for these arms, it says it allows for the removal of the quad shock. Mine is still in there but will need to come out when I get wider rear tires. Opinions on that?
Thanks,
Ryan
Do the Koni 30's have a reputation of providing a harsh ride, even on the lowest adjusted setting? I've never really experienced a "harsh" ride that was mainly due to a strut, even a stiff one, like I have right now, so I'm hoping the spring rates are a large portion of the problem.
Here are some pics. The guy from MM told me I should be able to get the spring rates off the springs, but neither was legible. The fronts may have had it at the top, and the rears did have it at one point, but the metal on metal had worn it off. Here's the pics.
The car.
![](http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/2230/img6780il4.th.jpg)
The front suspension. I loosened the spring right off to try and read a stamp on the bottom, but it wasn't there, or it was at the top.
![](http://img471.imageshack.us/img471/7082/img6783qc0.th.jpg)
Rear as it was once I lower the axle.
![](http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/1882/img6784xp3.th.jpg)
If you notice in the previous photo, once down the rear spring fals out, as the bottom perch is like a hat sitting ontop of a nut. Its not secured at all and it all basically falls right out. Is that right!!!!?? I don't get it.
![](http://img471.imageshack.us/img471/7184/img6785fp9.th.jpg)
Closeup of the lower arm. I'm confident it is a Griggs setup, so I've contacted them for some tips.
![](http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/6572/img6787mh6.th.jpg)
Griggs has not gotten back to me, and the ride is now better with upper and lower isolators back there, but overall the ride is still very rough. And the lower perch will always be sitting metal on metal, which means the squeaking and creaking is destined to stay.
Can anyone shed some light on whether that setup is right as it sits? If you have an idea of proper springs rates I'd like to hear it as well. I want an improved ride over stock, but right now its ridiculous.
Finally, reading the literature for these arms, it says it allows for the removal of the quad shock. Mine is still in there but will need to come out when I get wider rear tires. Opinions on that?
Thanks,
Ryan
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Sweet!!!
Your car looks really good. IMO, also leaning toward the spring rates being the main culprit for the uncomfortable ride. Is it possible to just swap out the springs w/something from MM, or do you have to go back to Griggs?
BTW, what kind of wheels are those? I think they go well with the car's looks.
![Headbang](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/headbang.gif)
BTW, what kind of wheels are those? I think they go well with the car's looks.
#3
I can't help you much with the suspension but I know my spring isolators are about shot and the ride is getting worse so your isolators may be the problem.
How much sidewall do those tires have? A low-pro tire is going to ride like crap, especially with a lot of air in them so check the pressures.
Those LCAs look really old.... maybe just say screw it and get new ones? At least check the bushings
Those wheels are pure hotness, are they the ROH ZR-6?
How much sidewall do those tires have? A low-pro tire is going to ride like crap, especially with a lot of air in them so check the pressures.
Those LCAs look really old.... maybe just say screw it and get new ones? At least check the bushings
Those wheels are pure hotness, are they the ROH ZR-6?
#4
Yup
ROH ZR6. From others I'm finding out these are the *****. I've only been able to find 2 single wheels on Ebay, and none unless they are private sale. Lightweight and strong.
The tires are 245/40/17, but my other ride ( Subaru Legacy ) is lowered on 225/45/18 and the ride is 10000 times smoother.
When I got the car, it had no isolaters, top or bottom!!! Metal on metal. Ford put in the tops, but I had to order two more tops to fit the aftermarket lower perch. Just having the tops in helped alot, but the front is still very stiff.
Thanks for the comments on the wheels.
As for the LCA looking old, I pointed it out to Griggs. I've got a 241000 km car, which is dead clean under there, then these lower control arms that are maybe 5 years old and they've rusted to ****. Its just surface rust but still, OEM does have some advantages as they obviously don't skimp.
The tires are 245/40/17, but my other ride ( Subaru Legacy ) is lowered on 225/45/18 and the ride is 10000 times smoother.
When I got the car, it had no isolaters, top or bottom!!! Metal on metal. Ford put in the tops, but I had to order two more tops to fit the aftermarket lower perch. Just having the tops in helped alot, but the front is still very stiff.
Thanks for the comments on the wheels.
As for the LCA looking old, I pointed it out to Griggs. I've got a 241000 km car, which is dead clean under there, then these lower control arms that are maybe 5 years old and they've rusted to ****. Its just surface rust but still, OEM does have some advantages as they obviously don't skimp.
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I guess this is up my alley....
There is a different between Rough ride and firm ride....The Koni yellows are a very firm shock but not "rough" so if you are describing things correctly this is not your problem.
One of my SVO's has a full Griggs suspension but with a Watts link rear setup...the car is very firm but not at all rough and I have no rubber bushings in the car at all...the rear control arms use spherical rod ends....I suspect the spring rates are the cause of your problem along with the lack of isolators...It is completely normal for that rear spring to come out if the car is lowered a lot.
What is your goal with the car? You can soften it up but at the compromise of handling which it looks like this car was built for originally. If the previous owner of the car bought the parts from Griggs then they might have him on file and be able to tell you exactly what he bought...if he bought them from a shop then unless you have the shop's info you might be out of luck.
There is a different between Rough ride and firm ride....The Koni yellows are a very firm shock but not "rough" so if you are describing things correctly this is not your problem.
One of my SVO's has a full Griggs suspension but with a Watts link rear setup...the car is very firm but not at all rough and I have no rubber bushings in the car at all...the rear control arms use spherical rod ends....I suspect the spring rates are the cause of your problem along with the lack of isolators...It is completely normal for that rear spring to come out if the car is lowered a lot.
What is your goal with the car? You can soften it up but at the compromise of handling which it looks like this car was built for originally. If the previous owner of the car bought the parts from Griggs then they might have him on file and be able to tell you exactly what he bought...if he bought them from a shop then unless you have the shop's info you might be out of luck.
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I guess this is up my alley....
There is a different between Rough ride and firm ride....The Koni yellows are a very firm shock but not "rough" so if you are describing things correctly this is not your problem.
One of my SVO's has a full Griggs suspension but with a Watts link rear setup...the car is very firm but not at all rough and I have no rubber bushings in the car at all...the rear control arms use spherical rod ends....I suspect the spring rates are the cause of your problem along with the lack of isolators...It is completely normal for that rear spring to come out if the car is lowered a lot.
What is your goal with the car? You can soften it up but at the compromise of handling which it looks like this car was built for originally. If the previous owner of the car bought the parts from Griggs then they might have him on file and be able to tell you exactly what he bought...if he bought them from a shop then unless you have the shop's info you might be out of luck.
Also, that 245/40 seems a bit short to me for that car and will be unforgiving but not necessarily your problem but possibly part of it. You really can't compare your Subaru to the Mustang...especially with the modifications made to the Mustang. I run 255/40 17's on my street SVO with Koni yellows and it is very firm but not rough either. My race prepped SVO rides on 275/40 17's all around.
There is a different between Rough ride and firm ride....The Koni yellows are a very firm shock but not "rough" so if you are describing things correctly this is not your problem.
One of my SVO's has a full Griggs suspension but with a Watts link rear setup...the car is very firm but not at all rough and I have no rubber bushings in the car at all...the rear control arms use spherical rod ends....I suspect the spring rates are the cause of your problem along with the lack of isolators...It is completely normal for that rear spring to come out if the car is lowered a lot.
What is your goal with the car? You can soften it up but at the compromise of handling which it looks like this car was built for originally. If the previous owner of the car bought the parts from Griggs then they might have him on file and be able to tell you exactly what he bought...if he bought them from a shop then unless you have the shop's info you might be out of luck.
Also, that 245/40 seems a bit short to me for that car and will be unforgiving but not necessarily your problem but possibly part of it. You really can't compare your Subaru to the Mustang...especially with the modifications made to the Mustang. I run 255/40 17's on my street SVO with Koni yellows and it is very firm but not rough either. My race prepped SVO rides on 275/40 17's all around.
#7
Goals
Its my daily driver. And although I'll meet from time to time to give it a straight line run, it won't be doing much else. I'm certain the previous owner was running it like this for Solo events.
I can tell with the single rubber isolator in it has already improved the ride, so I'll wait until I get the other in and go from there. What would a typical street rate be for a coilover. The front is what seems stiffer on this car. The back had was bad but the isolators have improved it.
Bigger tires will also be on the menu.
What do you think about the lower spring perch? In all the photos of current adjustable perch setups it looks like it is hard mounted on the end of the adjustable bolt, not just sitting up on top of it.
Thanks again,
Ryan
I can tell with the single rubber isolator in it has already improved the ride, so I'll wait until I get the other in and go from there. What would a typical street rate be for a coilover. The front is what seems stiffer on this car. The back had was bad but the isolators have improved it.
Bigger tires will also be on the menu.
What do you think about the lower spring perch? In all the photos of current adjustable perch setups it looks like it is hard mounted on the end of the adjustable bolt, not just sitting up on top of it.
Thanks again,
Ryan
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Its my daily driver. And although I'll meet from time to time to give it a straight line run, it won't be doing much else. I'm certain the previous owner was running it like this for Solo events.
I can tell with the single rubber isolator in it has already improved the ride, so I'll wait until I get the other in and go from there. What would a typical street rate be for a coilover. The front is what seems stiffer on this car. The back had was bad but the isolators have improved it.
Bigger tires will also be on the menu.
What do you think about the lower spring perch? In all the photos of current adjustable perch setups it looks like it is hard mounted on the end of the adjustable bolt, not just sitting up on top of it.
Thanks again,
Ryan
I can tell with the single rubber isolator in it has already improved the ride, so I'll wait until I get the other in and go from there. What would a typical street rate be for a coilover. The front is what seems stiffer on this car. The back had was bad but the isolators have improved it.
Bigger tires will also be on the menu.
What do you think about the lower spring perch? In all the photos of current adjustable perch setups it looks like it is hard mounted on the end of the adjustable bolt, not just sitting up on top of it.
Thanks again,
Ryan
I would think the lower spring perch should be fixed to that bolt...I'd feel better that way if it were my car.
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