Fox Mustangs 1979-1993 Mustangs Member Tech & Restoration Discussion

fuel pump for my 88 GT

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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 01:13 PM
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fuel pump for my 88 GT

I know this will probably sound dumb, but I wasn't sure if the fuel pump on my 88 was in the tank or not...I think it is, but just wanted to make sure because mine crapped out. I was going to replace it this week, and didn't know how involved of a project this is since I have never done it on a Mustang before...

Also, does anyone recommend any specific fuel pump to buy? I didn't know if a pump that pushed out more fuel than the stock one would benefit me at all since my car is pretty much stock...any advice would be appreciated.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 04:01 PM
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Yes your pump is in tank and I would go ahead and upgrade to a little larger for probably the same price. Your stock pump is 88 lph so you could step up to a 110 lph for about the same price probably. You can talk to svopaul on here and he can help you out with a lot of the "fox body" questions I am sure.

Last edited by Racin Jason; Mar 24, 2008 at 04:02 PM.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 11:02 PM
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step up to a bigger fuel pump - most 5.0s don't stay stock for long! =) saves the hassle of dropping the tank again.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 08:52 AM
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Thanks for the info!

I think I am going to order the one BBK makes from Summit...how difficult should this operation be? Should it take an hour or two?
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 01:55 PM
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Just had to ask, but did you make sure that the circuit breaker in the trunk didnt just trip?
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 08:09 PM
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There's a circuit breaker in the trunk? Did not know that existed...
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 01:49 AM
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That's the inertia (fuel pump shut-off) switch that normally trips off if the car suffers an impact - experienced it the hard way... : / IIRC, that switch is located to the left of the trunk latch inside the trunk on the panel where the taillight assemblies are mounted. Should be a white or red switch - just push down to reset it if it did trip. Do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the ignition switch to the engine "on" position w/out cranking/engaging the starter? x21's suggestion also brings to mind the fuel pump relay - there should be one located under the driver's seat. May want to check the contacts for corrosion or replace the relay itself, if necessary.
Doing the work should not be difficult, a extra set of hands and a (nearly) empty fuel tank makes things much easier! =) Just observe common sense safety precautions plus replace the fuel filter & filler neck to gas tank seal while you're at it.
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 05:39 AM
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I'll check that later today then, and see...I think I do hear the pump priming when turn the key to on before cranking the motor, but I haven't driven it since the problem occurred last Friday...I'll let ya know what I find out. Thanks!
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 04:19 PM
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yeah, I just checked the relay and the breaker...everything is normal, so I guess I am going to get a fuel pressure gauge and take the car down the road and watch the gauge and see where my fuel pressure is at...
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 01:56 PM
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Summit has their own brand of fuel pump as well. Check it out, it may save you a couple of bucks. I have one in my SVO. It's made by Walbro and works fine.

Last edited by WaltM; Apr 24, 2008 at 01:57 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 02:41 PM
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yeah, ended up checking and the problem that i am having with my car isnt even related to my fuel pump...I am not getting the right amount of spark, I think my coil is bad
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by GT5088
yeah, ended up checking and the problem that i am having with my car isnt even related to my fuel pump...I am not getting the right amount of spark, I think my coil is bad
If you're looking to upgrade the coil instead of just using a stock replacement I highly recommend the Screamin' Demon coil from Performance Distributors. I have it and and along with their entire ignition kit (cap & rotor, TFI module, 10.4mm Livewires) it DOES make a difference.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Valentino
If you're looking to upgrade the coil instead of just using a stock replacement I highly recommend the Screamin' Demon coil from Performance Distributors. I have it and and along with their entire ignition kit (cap & rotor, TFI module, 10.4mm Livewires) it DOES make a difference.
Thanks for the advice, Valentino...my dads friend does ignition work, and I brought him the car today...if that is indeed whats wrong, I may just order that stuff....what did it cost roughly?
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 05:27 PM
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http://www.performancedistributors.com/coils.htm

$70, well worth it over an MSD coil in my opinion. You can also buy the entire "firepower" kit from them and save some money
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 05:32 PM
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really...thats not too bad...I am waiting to hear from the guy tomorrow to see what the deal is...even if I don't do it tomorrow, it does look pretty cool...I am hoping to get my problem solved by the weekend because I was hoping to take my car to the Mustangs Unlimited Show in CT, but it's not looking good..
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Valentino
http://www.performancedistributors.com/coils.htm

$70, well worth it over an MSD coil in my opinion. You can also buy the entire "firepower" kit from them and save some money
Wow, that is pretty good. I had no issues with the ACCEL coil on my '88 5.0LX, currently (no pun intended) have a MSD coil sitting around waiting to go on but IMO, it looks like crap in comparison. Doesn't look very well-made.

At least you don't have to drop the fuel tank!
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 10:02 PM
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I've read quite a few posts at stangnet about the MSD coil making some kind of whining noise or something and besides that I couldn't find another coil that put out as many volts as the Screamin' Demon so thats what I got it.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Valentino
I've read quite a few posts at stangnet about the MSD coil making some kind of whining noise or something and besides that I couldn't find another coil that put out as many volts as the Screamin' Demon so thats what I got it.
You know what the problem ended up being with my car? The computer went bad! And I thought it was the coil all along...this is why I leave it to professionals...

I think I will still buy that kit you recommended and do it myself..it shouldn't be too involved, right? I am somewhat mechanically inclined...somewhat

Should be getting my car back today

Last edited by GT5088; Apr 29, 2008 at 06:21 AM.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 04:40 PM
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Yeah thats why I still take my car to the pros sometimes, glad you got it figured out. You still have speed density right? Just wondering since it seems A9Ls and A9Ps are kinda pricey nowadays.

The coil is the easiest to do; 4 little bolts, the wire to the distributor and the wiring harness plug- about 5 minutes to swap.
For the TFI ignition module you will need a special hex-type tool that can be found at any auto-parts store. It will be easy to find since it will say right on it "Ford ignition module tool/key" (something to that effect anyway). It can be a little tricky to reach and you may have to rotate the distributor to access it so make sure you have a timing light ready to reset your timing.
I'm sure you know how to swap the cap & rotor and plug wires. Just make sure you put the new dizzy cap back in the right spot, I changed one wire at a time instead of ripping all 8 old ones off at once just to make sure I didn't screw anything up.

Most guys will say you don't need to worry about high output ignition until about 300hp but I figured it'd be good to have a strong ignition before I was making lots of power. You know like, build a good foundation before you build a good house.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Valentino
Yeah thats why I still take my car to the pros sometimes, glad you got it figured out. You still have speed density right? Just wondering since it seems A9Ls and A9Ps are kinda pricey nowadays.

The coil is the easiest to do; 4 little bolts, the wire to the distributor and the wiring harness plug- about 5 minutes to swap.
For the TFI ignition module you will need a special hex-type tool that can be found at any auto-parts store. It will be easy to find since it will say right on it "Ford ignition module tool/key" (something to that effect anyway). It can be a little tricky to reach and you may have to rotate the distributor to access it so make sure you have a timing light ready to reset your timing.
I'm sure you know how to swap the cap & rotor and plug wires. Just make sure you put the new dizzy cap back in the right spot, I changed one wire at a time instead of ripping all 8 old ones off at once just to make sure I didn't screw anything up.

Most guys will say you don't need to worry about high output ignition until about 300hp but I figured it'd be good to have a strong ignition before I was making lots of power. You know like, build a good foundation before you build a good house.
As far as I know, I don't think I have speed density, mine is an '88...well, the way you describe it, it shouldn't be too involved...I have been wanting to get this squared away because I purchased the Trick Flow Street Heat top end kit (upper and lower intake, heads, cams, roller rockers, etc.) and I don't want to install that kit until I square everything else away. So, I figure installing a new ignition, cap, rotors, wires, alternator and radiator would be the right way to prepare for such an addition. I replaced my fuel pump with the one Trick Flow dynoes that kit with, and they dynoed it with a 306 block and pulled 360 horse, so I know I will be over 300HP...I haven't and will not install that kit until everything else under the hood is ready for such a modification...
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