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Defogger Question...and more

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Old 7/7/06, 04:04 PM
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Question Defogger Question...and more

Ok so my first question is: Does the defogger use the air conditioner? I thought it did, but then I thought: here are cars with defoggers that dont have air conditioning right?

Another Question: The cabin air for a fox mustang is Ducted in in the cowl on the passenger side, correct? Can i just get a Charcoal filter for a mask, or something of the kind, that i can put in the plastic grate that covers the duct, so i can have filtered air? Is there anything better/any other idea as to how i can filter the air coming in?

I have to change the sealsin y a/c system, and the hose/accululator assembaly, and i wanted to change it to R-134a. Can I get the old oil out just by having it evacuated somewhere, and how much would it cost?

I would also like to charg this myself to save money, so can i just add refrigerant to the low side of the system, or do i need to use a manifold gauge set to add it to both sides?

What is the best/fastest way to flush rust out of a cooling system?

Are there any ford 130 amp alternators that will fit the 2.3l mustang, or what would be required to adapt one to a 2.3. I know that later model 94 - up mustangs had them, and 93ish and up t-birds, and cougars, and maybe others
Old 7/7/06, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinspann
Ok so my first question is: Does the defogger use the air conditioner? I thought it did, but then I thought: here are cars with defoggers that dont have air conditioning right?
They use the A/C Compressor to dry the air, so yes your compressor will engage/disengage when you use the Defroster. (At least on all the cars I have ever owned)
Old 7/12/06, 09:28 PM
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Temperature is adjusted all year around via adjustments of the door flaps on both the heater core and cooler core.

Knowing this I have been able to use two water cutoff valves to turn off the water that goes to the heater core in the summer time.

This makes my air conditioner even colder than normal in the summer time.
I would not reccomend this or cars that are only a couple years old.

However, as we all know when cars get older door seals and such do tend to go bad.

As for the do it your selfer and 134 a

Do you have a air compresser?
Thay make an evacuater box that sell for under fifty bucks.


Or I suppose any shop could do the evacuation for you .

Or I suppose you could in therory waiste a full can o 134a flushing the entire system a little at a time. Not sure if this method is legal when using 134a. However, I do know that you don't want to get caught purging system with R12 . HELLO EPA

Oh and 134a uses a different type of oil and is very important that it be used otherwise you may burn up your compressor. If I remember rignt?
R12 oil was thinner oil however the newer thicker 134a oil can be mixed right with it NO PROBLEM


On the third switch from the driver you'll note it can be set at:

NORM AIR

or

MAX AIR.

These two settings are very different and can best be viewed from the passenger floorboard while looking under the glove box.

The norm air setting allows outside air in to be heated or cooled as needed.
However the max air setting recycles inside cabin air only (and is much louder sounding) It also makes it easier to cool the air even cooler since its already cool to begin with.

I suppose you could put filters in place But I am not sure it would be worth all the effort?

Many times these fox bodys will run low on radiator water and cause the heater cores to rust shut. resulting no heater in winter. Sometimes they can be flushed out with a garden hose and water pressure. Be careful tho to much pressure can make hole in your heater core.

As or charging the system yourself?
As I recall Auto Zone as well as Oreillys makes a 134a retrofit kit to switch your system from R12 to 134A

Rule one
Know the difference between the high side and low side

NEVER CHARGE FROM the high side. The can can become a shrap metal bomb if you do.

Rule two once you hooked up to the low side DO NOT POUR can of liquid into it like you do with your lawnmower.
The task at hand is to load only vapor NOT LIQUID this will help to keep you from desroying your compressor.

I have probably said to much already on a subject that is some what to very complex.

Since your a beginner let me reccomend you take your car to a repairmen that will let you watch as he works. I learned a lot about cars, this way. As well as to NEVER do repair business with a new car dealership. Since they have some kind of problem with there insurance companies.
Old 7/12/06, 10:33 PM
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-the flaps on the heater box are called bilar doors I believe


-low coolant does not cause the heater core to rust shut, fox heater cores are notoriously fragile and just plain old leak, which causes the coolant to get into the heater box and sometimes out in the passenger side of the interior

-I bought an Interdynamics brand retrofit kit from Advance Auto for 35 bucks. It includes the the new fittings for the high and low sides (which is the only real "conversion" parts), 2 cans of r134a, and a spiffy connector hose with a useless gauge. The high and low side ports are different so its impossible to charge the wrong side. Holding the can upright causes mostly vapor to charge, but I've never heard of liquid refrigerant in the compressor destroying it.
Old 7/19/06, 01:08 PM
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Thank you all... very informative
Old 7/28/06, 07:05 PM
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Just wondering Valentino
have you turn a can of 134a upside down while the compressors on?
It may have been safety as opposed to compresser breakage.
Just NOT sure.
It was awhile back.
Old 7/28/06, 07:24 PM
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I did turn the can upside down while I was charging it, and I held it upright also, I was also shaking the can as it was charging... didn't really notice a difference with anything. At the time I was still working in a garage and a fellow mechanic who has an associates degree in automotive technology and around 15 years experience told me turning it upside down will charge liquid and it will be cooler. He never mentioned anything about holding the can a certain way will hurt anything. Again, thats what I was told, I didn't read that first hand in an automotive refrigerant book.

Why did you link my name to my profile??
Old 7/28/06, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Daysleepin

Or I suppose you could in theory waiste a full can o 134a flushing the entire system a little at a time. Not sure if this method is legal when using 134a. However, I do know that you don't want to get caught purging system with R12 . HELLO EPA

Since your a beginner let me reccomend you take your car to a repairmen that will let you watch as he works. I learned a lot about cars, this way. As well as to NEVER do repair business with a new car dealership. Since they have some kind of problem with there insurance companies.
I have done the flush with R-134a. It works.It is EPA legal (not freon).
Remember also to change your dryer element in the system whenever it is redone whatever way you do it.
Old 7/29/06, 09:24 PM
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Yea uh Val, I guess sometimes my copy and paste is faster than my typing from memory, Er well, more accurate anyway.

Er also I have heard that placing the can in warm water will help speed up the process sometimes as well. Altho again you might want keep your face and critical body parts at a bit of a distance
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