Cranks but won't start
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Cranks but won't start
1992 5.0L LX Convertible. Cranks but doesn't start. I replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, distributor cap/rotor, fuel pump, and fuel filter. Tested spark successfully. Tested fuel pressure successfully. Sometimes the fuel pump runs continuously with KOEO. Sometimes it doesn't run at all. Bought an OBD1 Code Reader. Test doesn't show any codes. Pulled the EEC-IV computer and saw the capacitors were bad. Replaced those. Still no codes. Still doesn't start. I am at a loss. I have no idea what to try next.
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From: Insane
Welcome to the Forums! 
If the EEC-IV computer itself is blown... you probably need to source another one. Yes, the caps could be all there is... but it could be a problem of a greater issue. I know you can repair them, but... yeah. Just a cautionary mention. BTW, fuel pump will not run if there's pressure in the system, so that's normal.
The semi-scary one is the distributor's not spinning. You've pulled the cap off and watched that, right? Of course you did, silly me for saying such...
Beyond that... I see that you've done everything but the ignition module, which is found on the distributor. This is a known issue, they get hot and fail. They even make a relocation kit for them so they can run cooler and last longer. And nope, they do not throw a code at all, just the car doesn't run, exactly what you're describing.
All you'd wanna know about the things: https://www.americanmuscle.com/what-...fi-module.html
Here's a video to replace it:
(from there a link to a relocation kit install can be found too)
And here's a video to test it.
And this one too is important:
(I love how he hooked the coil to a plug wire, then the tester to the center, and tada, discrete test! I learned something!)
The two tests that show the coil working and the ignition module too. Doing these will ensure the spark is correct. I bet you do these and you don't get flicker on the ground of the coil, nor through the spark plug tester (however you set that up).
If it's not that/those, well... you got some diagnostics to get to, and you'll very likely need to get the shop manual for that car to do it, complete with wiring diagram and pinpoint tests. Multimeter and maybe some pins to get in connectors... or maybe take it to a shop (which'll mean a tow, of course, sorry.)
I hope that helps! Good luck!
If the EEC-IV computer itself is blown... you probably need to source another one. Yes, the caps could be all there is... but it could be a problem of a greater issue. I know you can repair them, but... yeah. Just a cautionary mention. BTW, fuel pump will not run if there's pressure in the system, so that's normal.
The semi-scary one is the distributor's not spinning. You've pulled the cap off and watched that, right? Of course you did, silly me for saying such...
Beyond that... I see that you've done everything but the ignition module, which is found on the distributor. This is a known issue, they get hot and fail. They even make a relocation kit for them so they can run cooler and last longer. And nope, they do not throw a code at all, just the car doesn't run, exactly what you're describing.
All you'd wanna know about the things: https://www.americanmuscle.com/what-...fi-module.html
Here's a video to replace it:
And here's a video to test it.
(I love how he hooked the coil to a plug wire, then the tester to the center, and tada, discrete test! I learned something!)
The two tests that show the coil working and the ignition module too. Doing these will ensure the spark is correct. I bet you do these and you don't get flicker on the ground of the coil, nor through the spark plug tester (however you set that up).
If it's not that/those, well... you got some diagnostics to get to, and you'll very likely need to get the shop manual for that car to do it, complete with wiring diagram and pinpoint tests. Multimeter and maybe some pins to get in connectors... or maybe take it to a shop (which'll mean a tow, of course, sorry.)
I hope that helps! Good luck!
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