I recently obtained my first car a 67 mustang coupe thats also a project. my dad built his first car so I have to build mine! Any tips on where to get Interior parts? The whole thing was gutted. US made would be great! Thanks!

 

Congrats on your first car! I just got my first Mustang too, a 67 as well. If you are looking for new parts, there are several reputable places to purchase online. I will let others chime in on where as I'm new to the old Mustangs.

What is missing? I'm guessing you will be better off going to a you-pull-it junk yard and getting your hands a little dirty for the bigger items. That will be the most cost effective way to get you up and running fast.

Post up some pictures, and good luck!

 

if you have a very much gutted car with perhaps good sheetmetal your first move may be to find another non gutted car with dented metal and fix it instead .. a car with missing items is most difficult to bring back ..i use mustangs unlimited in georgia .. ive used dallas mustangs a time or two also.

 

Thank you both! The metal is all solid and good however there is a small square on the drivers side floor pan. But other then that it looks pretty solid and we have all the gauges and the rear seats!

 

There is simply not much to these old cars.

Here's my suggestion: Price everything you need over at CJ Pony or National Parts Depot.

Once you have, get you a pair of seats, minimum gauges and get it running first.

Carpet and door inserts will cover most of the sins.

Ask yourself how "restored" you want it to be. With a blank slate, I'd be tempted to just go junkyard diving and find the seats you want and make it fit.

 

It turns out on closer inspection and the title it's a '68

 

remember when scrounging parts, a lot carried over from mustang to cougar...I looked for a a-pillar trim piece for a long time for my 69, found cougar was same part...dash/seats/doorpanels are different of course, but *might* just be upholstery differences, but seat tracks, steering column, etc should be same parts.

on my 69 the only bad spot in the floor is the area behind the pedals- but its bad due to torquebox rotting into it- dont be scared though if thats the case, darn near every panel for the car is available and cheap. if you dont have a welder, you can still do all the cut/drilling/prep and surely find a buddy that can buzz the spotwelds back in in the little time that part of it takes...getting the old out/fitting the new tin is where the time goes.

best advice i EVER got was use 'ospho' or whatever phosphoric acid metalprep your local paint suppliers carry... brush off all the rust and paint, acid treat before painting and youll never see blistering under the paint. brush on a lot over welds in case theres any inclusions...the acid is mild,dont get it in your eyes, but a little on your hands isnt gonna fry you like battery acid or something- just wear goggles/gloves and keep clean water handy to rinse off it you get it on you...easy and man does paint bite to the phosphate coating it leaves... it converts all iron oxide into iron phosphate, which is nearly as good as galvanized at stopping rust creep under paint if you get a smal scratch/chip...better yet is remember all bare steel beginns to rust the moment moist air hits it...this kills that microscopic rust dead in its tracks and gives a coating to protect long enough to get a waterproof topcoat over- its great stuff.

I still like POR15 for undercarriage/floor metal, but it dont stick to paint- has to be steel, best if acid etched, and topcoating requires POR special 'tie coat primer...probably ok for topcoating body stuff, but I still feel funny about putting expensive/pretty paint over brushed on stuff I LOVE PPG K-36 'prima' 3 part primer/surfacer costs near 200 bucks to mix a quart of it though, but it blocks very easily, and you can build 1/16" even in just a few coats, be blocking in a hour...acid etch/K36/block/prime, youll never have rust come back from under. POR seems to stop rust dead too, but the special primer/brushing still has me with mixed feelings...I'll find out soon- gonna try basecoat/clearcoat my undercarriage over POR/tie coat primer to see how it looks- but Ive got a long way to go before then on my 69.

good luck with it- like someone else mentioned, finding a wrecked or rusted donor would be easiest if you need all the little tidbits- PLUS taking it apart yourself would be an immense help in seeing whats missing and how it goes together- but there is a lot of mustang sites/youtube vids on just about anything mustang related to fall back on too
Tim