Paint Job for a 65 Mustang
OK, I'd like to see some pics of it after it's painted! 

I just sanded it smooth, waiting for it to be primered then painting. As I sanded found areas like rings on a tree. In some areas I hit primer and other areas hit other colors. as said in other threads, previous owners tried to restore but failed. At the moment still under my $10k limit, but will go over that with the paint and some engine work.
So to answer your question, no not to bare metal but down enough to look good with a fresh coat of paint.
So to answer your question, no not to bare metal but down enough to look good with a fresh coat of paint.
Well, my Mustang got back from soda blasting and most of the panels looked pretty good. One area on the RH fender/door/sill, along with some of the back will need some work, but otherwise the body panels are in good shape with no bondo present. Here's just a few of the pics that I took today along with the link to my online photo album where I have over 30 pics. 
One area of concern is that it looks like the engine may not have been protected like they said they were going to do, and I've heard that the soda is bad for the engine? What do you guys think?
Link to my photo album
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/e...20paint%20job/



One area of concern is that it looks like the engine may not have been protected like they said they were going to do, and I've heard that the soda is bad for the engine? What do you guys think?

Link to my photo album
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/e...20paint%20job/


Well, it's painted! Looks pretty good too! 
I went with the 2011 "Race Red" when the sample for the 65 "Rangoon Red" came out too dark.......
More pics here......
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/e...20paint%20job/

I went with the 2011 "Race Red" when the sample for the 65 "Rangoon Red" came out too dark.......

More pics here......
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/e...20paint%20job/
Last edited by Falchion; Sep 15, 2010 at 04:42 PM.
WOW! Shiny!
Finally got my car, it looks good, maybe slightly with more orange then I wanted. It's painted in the 2011 color "Race Red."




The rest of the pics are here!
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/e...20paint%20job/




The rest of the pics are here!
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/e...20paint%20job/
Last edited by Falchion; Sep 28, 2010 at 08:23 PM.
Did you re-use the stock trim pieces or get new ones? (emblems, bumbers, rocker panels, trim moldings, etc..) If so, did they polish them up for you? Car came out great and I love that color. What did the final cost run you (approx?) if you do not mind me asking. I am thinking about going your route and contacting a local Maaco to repaint my '66 coupe.
Last edited by creedog; Sep 28, 2010 at 09:37 PM.
I reused most of the trim and replaced some of the chrome like door handles, etc. They didn't polish the trim, but you probably could.
The total cost was just over $7000 since I had some body work, soda blast, disassembly, reassembly done at the same time. You could save off that figure by doing some of that yourself.
The total cost was just over $7000 since I had some body work, soda blast, disassembly, reassembly done at the same time. You could save off that figure by doing some of that yourself.

Did you re-use the stock trim pieces or get new ones? (emblems, bumbers, rocker panels, trim moldings, etc..) If so, did they polish them up for you? Car came out great and I love that color. What did the final cost run you (approx?) if you do not mind me asking. I am thinking about going your route and contacting a local Maaco to repaint my '66 coupe.
In my opinion, you get what you pay for. I had my bike repainted at Maaco, and to save money, I did the basic prep myself. $500 is what it cost me for their 'premium' package. Primer, sanding, base, and clear. Premium automotive paint, same stuff any reputable shop would use. Had it done in Belize Blue Pearl.
Here it is initially:

Looks great, right?
Look closer and you can see sanding lines, specks in the paint, etc:

Plus, this:

Does NOT match Belize Blue Pearl:

Especially in person. They got it in the neighborhood, but it doesn't reflect light the same way, it's not quite the same hue.
You really get what you pay for. I should have spent the extra $200 for a real shop. It would have looked so much nicer.
So I think for your restoration project, you should go get it painted at a real shop. Otherwise I think you'll regret it.
Here it is initially:
Looks great, right?
Look closer and you can see sanding lines, specks in the paint, etc:

Plus, this:

Does NOT match Belize Blue Pearl:

Especially in person. They got it in the neighborhood, but it doesn't reflect light the same way, it's not quite the same hue.
You really get what you pay for. I should have spent the extra $200 for a real shop. It would have looked so much nicer.
So I think for your restoration project, you should go get it painted at a real shop. Otherwise I think you'll regret it.
Last edited by Cavero; Oct 3, 2010 at 04:46 PM.
Maaco is a franchise and so the business is paying for and benefiting from national advertising, also unfortunately, they take the flack for the bad businesses using the same name. Prep is the key to good paint. In the case of sand scratches, too many people rely on high build primers to cover up scratches they put in or the previous body man did. I stripped a roof on a '65 last week that was painted so long ago that it had laquer on it, and there are deep grinder marks from where someone stripped the paint and/or were grinding off surface rust. It will be an involved process of rust conversion, primers, fillers, primers, blocking, primer... before the surface is ready to be topcoated. I was impressed immediately when you mentioned that your Stang would be stripped by soda blasting as that meant the shop was taking the body down to bare metal instead of just covering up what was already there. kennyg









