Need opinions on a 69 Mach 1 value
#1
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I was contacted by a friend about a 69 Mach 1 for sale. Private owner. Not advertised for personal reasons. So, he called me and asked me if wanted to take a look at it.
It comes with a bunch of new parts. Trim pieces, 2 sets of stripes. interior stuff, door panels, new alternator, carpet, original intake and carb, plus another set of original wheels and (regular) tires.
Its an original 4-spd 'H' code (2V) car. What's odd though, is that its has 4 wheel drum (no power) brakes, and no front and rear spoilers. Anyway, its in nice shape. The motor obviously has some work done to it. Sounds nice.
Miscellaneous Vehicle Data
Body: 63C SportsRoof, Mach 1, Deluxe Interior
Color: B5 Royal Maroon w/Flat Black Hood
Trim: 3A Black Vinyl and Black Knitted Vinyl, Mach 1 Luxury
Date: 23A January 23, 1969
D.S.O: 16 Philadelphia
Axle: 6 3.00:1, Conventional
Trans: 5 4-Speed Manual
Engine: H 351 2v V8
What is it worth? I was asked to make an offer, but I don't want to insultingly low price, but this is probably the best shot I'll have for a while at getting a complete one that doesn't need body or engine work.
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-1.jpg)
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-2.jpg)
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-3.jpg)
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-4.jpg)
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-5.jpg)
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-6.jpg)
It comes with a bunch of new parts. Trim pieces, 2 sets of stripes. interior stuff, door panels, new alternator, carpet, original intake and carb, plus another set of original wheels and (regular) tires.
Its an original 4-spd 'H' code (2V) car. What's odd though, is that its has 4 wheel drum (no power) brakes, and no front and rear spoilers. Anyway, its in nice shape. The motor obviously has some work done to it. Sounds nice.
Miscellaneous Vehicle Data
Body: 63C SportsRoof, Mach 1, Deluxe Interior
Color: B5 Royal Maroon w/Flat Black Hood
Trim: 3A Black Vinyl and Black Knitted Vinyl, Mach 1 Luxury
Date: 23A January 23, 1969
D.S.O: 16 Philadelphia
Axle: 6 3.00:1, Conventional
Trans: 5 4-Speed Manual
Engine: H 351 2v V8
What is it worth? I was asked to make an offer, but I don't want to insultingly low price, but this is probably the best shot I'll have for a while at getting a complete one that doesn't need body or engine work.
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-1.jpg)
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-2.jpg)
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-3.jpg)
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-4.jpg)
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-5.jpg)
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-6.jpg)
![](http://www.hoofbeat.net/images/69mach1-7.jpg)
#2
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http://www2.nadaguides.com/uv/viewresults....&wPr=1&wPg=2032
Found this on the NADA site. Hope it helps. Now if I was buying that care my list of future mods would be : Front & Rear spoilers, rear window slats, Holley 600 & intake, headers(if they're not already there), 5sp. tranny and a posi rearend w/3.90 gears.
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Found this on the NADA site. Hope it helps. Now if I was buying that care my list of future mods would be : Front & Rear spoilers, rear window slats, Holley 600 & intake, headers(if they're not already there), 5sp. tranny and a posi rearend w/3.90 gears.
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#3
That looks like an excellent choice for a driver. It doesn't have A/C or disc brakes. Does any of that matter to you? After I took a very careful look with a magnet (DSO PA smells like rust to me), I'd start with "You must have some idea of what you'd like to get for the car." Let him know you're a serious buyer and don't want to insult him, but everyone's got a budget to work with. See if he'll give you an asking price.
When it's all said and done, tell him you'll take it, AFTER you have a professional mechanic do a pre-purchase inspection, which includes compression test, tranny check, etc. You'll pay for the inspection, and it should cost you about an hour's worth of shoplabor. Well worth the money for a car like this.
When it's all said and done, tell him you'll take it, AFTER you have a professional mechanic do a pre-purchase inspection, which includes compression test, tranny check, etc. You'll pay for the inspection, and it should cost you about an hour's worth of shoplabor. Well worth the money for a car like this.
#5
I'll SWAG and say low-to-mid teens if its in good shape. Mber's right - have a shop check it out. It looks nice, would love to own it myself ![Banana](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/banana.gif)
On negotiations, the rule of thumb is, the first party to mention a figure loses B)
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Last edited by LMan; 8/20/11 at 08:13 AM.
#6
I'd agree with the low to mid teens. You'd still have to have the underside checked out by a knowledgable Mustang fanatic. None of the pictures show the frame that well. Floor pans are pretty easy, frame rails are pretty hard to replace. The paint is hard to judge in the picture too, but it looks pretty good.
Just a story for you. I talked to this guy because he'd talked to my brother-in-law. The guy had bought a 65/66 coupe, great paint job. Didn't know what he was looking at. Paid $4-5,000 for it. Took it in and the shop put it on the rack (probably getting alignment or exhaust or something). The floors and frame rails were rusted through. The leaf springs in the back were ready to come up through the trunk. The car was unsafe to drive. The shop estimated $4-6K to fix it. I think they parted it out and took a bath.
This car isn't nearly that bad, and you are doing right by asking for an opinion of others first instead of buying it by yourself.
Just a story for you. I talked to this guy because he'd talked to my brother-in-law. The guy had bought a 65/66 coupe, great paint job. Didn't know what he was looking at. Paid $4-5,000 for it. Took it in and the shop put it on the rack (probably getting alignment or exhaust or something). The floors and frame rails were rusted through. The leaf springs in the back were ready to come up through the trunk. The car was unsafe to drive. The shop estimated $4-6K to fix it. I think they parted it out and took a bath.
This car isn't nearly that bad, and you are doing right by asking for an opinion of others first instead of buying it by yourself.
#7
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys, I've had a rusted out 69 in the past, so I know what and where to look. This one is solid. Shock towers are good, the rear frame is good, and the floors/torque boxes are good. No rust problems anywhere, in fact I think someone already did the floors.
The only thing that concerns me is the lack of power disc brakes and no spoliers. I wonder how much that detracts from the value.
The only thing that concerns me is the lack of power disc brakes and no spoliers. I wonder how much that detracts from the value.
#8
The lack of disc and the spoiler should detract very little. If you want a spoiler, it would cost <$300 I would guess (haven't priced a spoiler lately). The brakes would be a little more expensive, but drum brakes will stop the car. You're still talking around $1K or so to do it all depending on how fancy you want to get.
Those two points are rather minor for a solid car.
Those two points are rather minor for a solid car.
#9
Last edited by LMan; 8/20/11 at 08:14 AM.
#10
VA Mustang (http://www.vamustang.com/) has a kit. To go power, you'd need a new pedal. Here:
http://catalogs.google.com/catalogs?hl=en&...970&catpage=176
http://catalogs.google.com/catalogs?hl=en&...970&catpage=176
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