Lowering a Classic Mustang
1) How low do I go? What looks best &/or works best? 
2) Front end? New springs, cutting springs, re-drill mounting holes???? :scratch:
3) Rear end? New springs, blocks, shackles??? :scratch:
4) What about airbags???
5) Will 17" rims lower the car? :bang:
6) what about cost???

2) Front end? New springs, cutting springs, re-drill mounting holes???? :scratch:
3) Rear end? New springs, blocks, shackles??? :scratch:
4) What about airbags???
5) Will 17" rims lower the car? :bang:
6) what about cost???
Originally posted by GT350Clone@October 12, 2004, 7:37 AM
1) How low do I go? What looks best &/or works best?
2) Front end? New springs, cutting springs, re-drill mounting holes???? :scratch:
3) Rear end? New springs, blocks, shackles??? :scratch:
4) What about airbags???
5) Will 17" rims lower the car? :bang:
6) what about cost???
1) How low do I go? What looks best &/or works best?

2) Front end? New springs, cutting springs, re-drill mounting holes???? :scratch:
3) Rear end? New springs, blocks, shackles??? :scratch:
4) What about airbags???
5) Will 17" rims lower the car? :bang:
6) what about cost???
3) Springs or blocks both work. I'm using 4 leaf mid-eye leaf springs that give a 1" lower stance(from stock).
4) There are some rear airbag setups out there for early Mustangs but I have yet to see anything in a "kit" for the front. Shouldn't be too difficult to fab up then you can "lay frame" all day long.
Out of order but quick points...
17" wheels will do nothing to affect the height, the tires you select for those wheels will. This due to the fact that the original wheel and tire combos were taller than 17" to start with
Blocks in the rear are the quickest way to find the lowering stance you like, from there it's playing with spring options to achieve it. I like blocks because they are simple and proven. Just don't go to Home Depot to make your own blocks
You can also achieve lowering with the shackles you choose. I have a set that give me two settings in the rear and I'm pretty sure the "factory height" would actually fall between the two so one is lower.
Air Ride Tech. sells all you need to make the front conversion. It replaces the coil spring and the shock and is rather straight forward. For the rear you can also adapt one of their leaf spring kits or use the Gearwood setup we have seen here before.
17" wheels will do nothing to affect the height, the tires you select for those wheels will. This due to the fact that the original wheel and tire combos were taller than 17" to start with

Blocks in the rear are the quickest way to find the lowering stance you like, from there it's playing with spring options to achieve it. I like blocks because they are simple and proven. Just don't go to Home Depot to make your own blocks
You can also achieve lowering with the shackles you choose. I have a set that give me two settings in the rear and I'm pretty sure the "factory height" would actually fall between the two so one is lower.
Air Ride Tech. sells all you need to make the front conversion. It replaces the coil spring and the shock and is rather straight forward. For the rear you can also adapt one of their leaf spring kits or use the Gearwood setup we have seen here before.
1) How low do I go? What looks best &/or works best?
For cosmetics, most prefer either the top of the tire even with the fender lip or an even concentric "gap" all around. Froma preformance standpoint, Global West recommends that the LOWER arm be used as a reference point, and that it be within 1/8" of perfectly level. lowering beyond that point adversely affects the roll center. :nono:
2) Front end? New springs, cutting springs, re-drill mounting holes????
Springs are usually the first choice, simply because after 35-40 years, the stocker are "worn out" anyway. Even then, you sometimes end up trimming the new springs to get the stance "just right". Since cutting the spring raises the rate, you should only cut up to one coil as a "fine-tuning" aid. If you need to cut more than one full coil, you should consider starting with a different spring. A full coil cut = approx 2" of ride height! Cut ONLY 1/4 coil at a time with a cutoff wheel, never a torch. Lowering the upper a-arm mounting point is a common mod, done mainly for the geometry improvement, NOT for ride height. A 1" lowered mounting does change the ride height by ~ 1/2".
3) Rear end? New springs, blocks, shackles???
For up to 1" of lowering, blocks are fine. For more than 1", change the springs to either Mid-Eye (1.25" lower) or reverse eye (2" lower). Some shackle have alternate (high/lower) mounting holes that can be used for "fine-tuning".
4) What about airbags???
Front and rear air ride systems ARE available for vintage Mustangs. Budget about $3000 for everything. Air bag systems have come a long way, and can offer great handling and easy ride height changes. Remeber though, the Mustang wacky suspension geometry can bite you with excessive camber and toe changes at varying ride heights! :shock:
5) Will 17" rims lower the car?
NO... Not if the tires are properly sized. Ride height will stay the same if the tire's overall diamater is the same as your stockers.
6) what about cost???
Anywhere from free to thousands of $$$.
For cosmetics, most prefer either the top of the tire even with the fender lip or an even concentric "gap" all around. Froma preformance standpoint, Global West recommends that the LOWER arm be used as a reference point, and that it be within 1/8" of perfectly level. lowering beyond that point adversely affects the roll center. :nono:
2) Front end? New springs, cutting springs, re-drill mounting holes????
Springs are usually the first choice, simply because after 35-40 years, the stocker are "worn out" anyway. Even then, you sometimes end up trimming the new springs to get the stance "just right". Since cutting the spring raises the rate, you should only cut up to one coil as a "fine-tuning" aid. If you need to cut more than one full coil, you should consider starting with a different spring. A full coil cut = approx 2" of ride height! Cut ONLY 1/4 coil at a time with a cutoff wheel, never a torch. Lowering the upper a-arm mounting point is a common mod, done mainly for the geometry improvement, NOT for ride height. A 1" lowered mounting does change the ride height by ~ 1/2".
3) Rear end? New springs, blocks, shackles???
For up to 1" of lowering, blocks are fine. For more than 1", change the springs to either Mid-Eye (1.25" lower) or reverse eye (2" lower). Some shackle have alternate (high/lower) mounting holes that can be used for "fine-tuning".
4) What about airbags???
Front and rear air ride systems ARE available for vintage Mustangs. Budget about $3000 for everything. Air bag systems have come a long way, and can offer great handling and easy ride height changes. Remeber though, the Mustang wacky suspension geometry can bite you with excessive camber and toe changes at varying ride heights! :shock:
5) Will 17" rims lower the car?
NO... Not if the tires are properly sized. Ride height will stay the same if the tire's overall diamater is the same as your stockers.
6) what about cost???
Anywhere from free to thousands of $$$.
Originally posted by GT350Clone@October 12, 2004, 1:07 PM
Trying to stir some traffic, but it looks like nobody is awake....
Trying to stir some traffic, but it looks like nobody is awake....
If you really really want it lowered, go down to the south side of town and find a good hop shop. You know, get that car juiced. Empty the trunk, buy some batteries, weld some 1/4 inch plate all the way around the frame, add some hydraulics and let it rip baby!!!!
OK. I so, I am awake, I do pay attention, but just don't have anything good to add. You restomod guys are way over my head.
Comon' ask me a concours question!!!
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