1964-1970 Mustang Member Tech & Restoration Discussion

How to eliminate body roll..

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Old 7/3/06, 10:01 AM
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How to eliminate body roll..

I want to get my car to want to slide instead of rolling over...and I dont know what the steps would be to make that happen...I would assume coil springs have a lot to do with it, but I dont know which ones are good. I know a lot of the S197 guys are getting the Edibach Pro Kit, but I dont know what the equivelent is for a '65...any help would be much appreciated....I want to do an autocross sometime, but my current setup just isnt going to cut it....
Old 7/5/06, 03:24 PM
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anyone?...I would think subframe connectors would help too?...I know nothing about suspensions here folks...I need someone to learn me some stuff... I can't find magazines that do a lot of (realistic or practicle) 1st generation mustang builds....
Old 7/5/06, 07:23 PM
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Poly bushings, bolt up a rear sway bar, subframe connectors, tubular controls arms, etc.

Shelby-style strut tower bracing, a simple roll bar, 17" wheels and tires, and there's some companies that make rack & pinion steering conversions for 1st gen Mustangs...

All of those things should help, together or stand alone.
Old 7/8/06, 04:49 PM
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OK, so it seems that I can do a lot of bracing for the least money, so I was looking at Monte Carlo bars...and some are straight, and some are curved...is there any advantage to a curved one?


or

Old 7/9/06, 12:59 AM
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Um, it has better clearance around the air cleaner? That's all I can think of... Either way, it helps and that's what matters.
Old 7/9/06, 10:17 AM
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I found this one that goes from tower to tower....and I think this would be the best route to go....but its the difference of $120..
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Old 7/23/06, 11:01 PM
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As far as the Monte Carlo bars...

From pure physics, the straight one will provide better handling. How much better can be debated, but I don't think there is much of a difference. The curved one is designed to fit around some air filters.

If clearance wont be a problem, go with the straight one...
but once again, i don't think there is really that much of a difference.

just my $0.02

p.s.
Have you tried talking to aftermarket companies like Maier racing?
Old 7/26/06, 02:23 PM
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yeah..I have....but its all pretty expensive comparred to other stuff
Old 12/8/11, 08:13 AM
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I have a upgraded sway bar new bushings and edlebrock shocks and she handles like she's on rails.
Old 12/8/11, 10:16 PM
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Get some nice stiffer rate coils. It helps a tonnnn, nice shocks of course, Monte bar ad one piece export brace or the full kit tcp sells. Thicker front sway bar. Full poly bushings as said. Upgrade tie rods. For rear get a good thickness sway bar but not as thick as front, sticker springs, I liked the 5 leafs I had, shocks, maybe trac bars. Stiffer the better in my opinion. Sub frame would be good, just depends if body rolls all your looking to rid or gain overall better handling. Came in a little late sorry
Old 12/13/11, 12:26 PM
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stiffer coils, subframe connectors, monte carlo bar, bigger front sway bar, rear sway bar, good set of shocks.
Old 12/13/11, 05:43 PM
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http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

It states its for a 65, a bit pricey but for your car it would be worth it.
Shocks and sway bars first then see how it feels to you.
Here's a weird rear bar well weird to me anyway.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/addco-swa...5-1966/p/RSB1/
http://www.suspensionconnection.com/...y_vehicle.html

I think you will like it. Do you like your ride height? Pictures would be cool too.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/maier-rac...-1970/p/SFC40/
I think they will help but not as much as a good strut tower brace to start out with.
Old 12/13/11, 05:54 PM
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/299081...ng#29908140002
just ran acoss this while googling around
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