Ok, I'm getting fed up with turning my map light on and cupping my hand over it to direct light onto my speedo at night and i'm reopening my 'no dash lights' investigation. My blinkers don't work either, hazard lights do, don't know if they're related. Replaced - both flashers, fuses are good, all gauges work, clock works intermittently (lubricated lightly), new Headlight switch- works same, all headlights (hi/lo and hi beam ind. work) running lights, etc. dash ind. flash for hazards.

Ran hot test lead from fog light lead (not equipped) off headlight switch to get 12v w/running lights on - good- lights test lead
Removed gauge pod, attached hot 12V to #19 (blue w/red stripe wire) prong (shop manual pg. 19-24) 10B942 assembly (12 pin harness connector at dash)
Result= nothing?
Looked again at wiring, appears that blue w/red wire also runs through double pigtail blue 2prong connector that goes to left turn lamp and clock? connected blue 2pin connector>reconnected hot 12V to #19 pin= DASH LIGHTS CAME ON and I think the left turn ind. came on at same time, 1/2 second later DASH LIGHTS WENT OFF and left turn ind. stayed on? come on I'm so close .....ARRRGGHHHH!

Update - figured out that if I press the gauge bezel against the dash hard enough to get a good ground the dash lights stay on...I guess that's why the turn signal light came on alone - weak grounding point. Now to trace the connector back to see where I'm loosing juice between here and the fuse box...good to eliminate the dash ground, lights, etc. though...

Any electrical gurus know the answer this puzzle or have advice to further test? could the turn signals not working be shorting out the dash lights? I'm close to spending the $60-$80 to replace the entire turn signal switch because I've got juice going up the steering column towards it.
Hellllp! Jon

 

my first thought was were the bulbs burned out, but when you pushed on the gauge bezel they came on... I would work on the ground.

 

My thought too.

 

Thanks for the input guys, I was trying to remove the ground as the reason the lights don't work, so the gauge pod was loose from the dash and leaning on the steering column, that's why I was loosing ground during my test. I wasn't pressing it hard enough against the metal so just the turn signal light came on.
By running a seperate hot lead I proved to myself that it is the hot that is interrupted in my case vs. the ground, if I remount it and run a seperate hot again, they will come on.

I figured this out an hour after my original posting, so I went back and added the update, I just thought the fact that the single ts light coming on was indicative of a bad ground, might help someone else.

I'm continuing to try to follow the snake of dash light power wires which I believe goes through the stalk and the headlight switch of course, but they are all wrapped still. I have found some cut wires near the aftermarket installed radio but they are not hot so I'm still tracing to see where they were interrupted and see if my lack of turn signals is related to the same wires or if I have a bad ts switch as a seperate issue.
Thanks, Jon