65 tail lights
1/14/12, 10:36 PM
#2
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Ok so I figured out that it only pulses when both tail light wires are hooked up. Both turn signals can be Hooked up and the one won't pulse. But once I plug both tail lights in they start to pulse. Anybody know of any solutions?
1/16/12, 11:27 AM
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No, every 3 seconds they get a little bright then dull down then get brighter and etc. And it doesn't matter if the car is off running or revving it still pulses at that rate
1/16/12, 01:12 PM
#7
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.......
1967 Coupe Converting to Sequential Taillights (old school version) this thread may or may not provide any help .. the elspeth fellow i think did this aslo ..
1967 Coupe Converting to Sequential Taillights (old school version) this thread may or may not provide any help .. the elspeth fellow i think did this aslo ..
1/16/12, 04:18 PM
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These are supposed to plug and play not a pieced together kit, although that might have been better. And it's not the turn signal because I can unplug the turn signal wire and just have the tail and running light wire hooked up and they still pulse. I'm thinking the last thing it could be is the headlight switch itself. Because their is no external fuse for the lighting system there is a breaker I believe in the switch itself and it may be corroded but I think that is the last thing it could possibly be. It's just wierd how it only does it when both lights are plugged in not when only one is. Leads me to think it's not getting enough juice but I already tested both alt and batt
1/16/12, 08:48 PM
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http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/...m/viewall.html
Read the section on turn signal switch...
LEDs are alot more sensitive to voltage drop than traditional incandescent lights... It appears that your having too much of a voltage drop at the light panels... What is the voltage measured at the actual light panels...the combined load appears to be causing too much of a voltage drop that your voltage regulator can't keep up with so its probably too much resistance in the wire leading to the back of the car or in the turn signal switch....
Read the section on turn signal switch...
LEDs are alot more sensitive to voltage drop than traditional incandescent lights... It appears that your having too much of a voltage drop at the light panels... What is the voltage measured at the actual light panels...the combined load appears to be causing too much of a voltage drop that your voltage regulator can't keep up with so its probably too much resistance in the wire leading to the back of the car or in the turn signal switch....
1/17/12, 06:46 PM
#13
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Easiest solution: Run a fused power wire to the trunk, and put relays on the lights. That will solve the problem. The 45 year old wiring in that car is causing the issue, lightening the load on it by bypassing it will get rid of the problem. Similar to a horn relay idea.
Safer: Run a keyed, fused power wire... and the rest.
Safer: Run a keyed, fused power wire... and the rest.
1/18/12, 07:38 PM
#16
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I mean this:
Find a keyed source. Run a wire from it to a 30 amp relay ACC input (85)
Example of relay: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062477
Example of how to wire it: http://www.angelfire.com/ok4/wingman...cessories.html
Run the ground from the Ground connector (86) to a CHASSIS Ground. This can be the bolt that you mount the relay with to the chassis if you like.
Run a **FUSED** wire from the battery to the input side of the relay (30). The fuse should be appropriate to the use, say the 7A to 15A, but NO MORE than 30A. If you need more than 30A (say, an Amp for a subwoofer?) you *MAY* need to get something more beefy than this setup. Please do your research.
Continuing on, run from the Output (87) terminal, outside one, btw, not the inside one, a wire to the trunk. You can get to it however you choose, simply BE CAREFUL that you do not run it where it could be chafed, or if there's a hole it could chafe, then deal with that hole and put a grommet in it first, or use silicone, or mastic tape. You do not want this grounding out.
You can terminate the power in the trunk however you choose at that point. A screw terminal isn't a bad idea in this case, it can allow you to do other things if desired. It would be a good idea to put it where the terminals will not touch ground, of course, or make sure it's covered up/taped or something.
You now have a power location in the trunk to run the LEDS. You can then use the same relays, in the same configuration, to get the input from the original light harness (however you choose to do that) and completely bypass the original wiring for actually lighting up the LEDS.
You'll need a total of three relays, one fuse, and various connectors thereto, and a 14-18GA wire to the trunk. Bigger will handle a bigger load, so there's that. 18 is probably ok for this application.
Please note: If you are NOT comfortable with doing any of this, then DO NOT DO IT. It's not hard, but if done wrong, you can have Bad Things(tm) happen.
Please note pt 2: All components are assumed to be adequate to the load. If you need 30 amps, then **RUN 30 AMP MATERIALS** Wires, connectors, relays, terminals, whatever. DO NOT skimp, DO NOT assume. And if can't decide GO BIGGER. 14ga instead of 18ga if you're unsure. Sure, it's huge, but it will handle anything, pretty much, that you'll need. Youare running a 'backbone' power wire. Be a shame to run one too small and then have to run it again when you added something else.
You have been warned, and I have therefore performed the perfunctory CYA that any instructible-ish thing should have.
Now... go do it.
Find a keyed source. Run a wire from it to a 30 amp relay ACC input (85)
Example of relay: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062477
Example of how to wire it: http://www.angelfire.com/ok4/wingman...cessories.html
Run the ground from the Ground connector (86) to a CHASSIS Ground. This can be the bolt that you mount the relay with to the chassis if you like.
Run a **FUSED** wire from the battery to the input side of the relay (30). The fuse should be appropriate to the use, say the 7A to 15A, but NO MORE than 30A. If you need more than 30A (say, an Amp for a subwoofer?) you *MAY* need to get something more beefy than this setup. Please do your research.
Continuing on, run from the Output (87) terminal, outside one, btw, not the inside one, a wire to the trunk. You can get to it however you choose, simply BE CAREFUL that you do not run it where it could be chafed, or if there's a hole it could chafe, then deal with that hole and put a grommet in it first, or use silicone, or mastic tape. You do not want this grounding out.
You can terminate the power in the trunk however you choose at that point. A screw terminal isn't a bad idea in this case, it can allow you to do other things if desired. It would be a good idea to put it where the terminals will not touch ground, of course, or make sure it's covered up/taped or something.
You now have a power location in the trunk to run the LEDS. You can then use the same relays, in the same configuration, to get the input from the original light harness (however you choose to do that) and completely bypass the original wiring for actually lighting up the LEDS.
You'll need a total of three relays, one fuse, and various connectors thereto, and a 14-18GA wire to the trunk. Bigger will handle a bigger load, so there's that. 18 is probably ok for this application.
Please note: If you are NOT comfortable with doing any of this, then DO NOT DO IT. It's not hard, but if done wrong, you can have Bad Things(tm) happen.
Please note pt 2: All components are assumed to be adequate to the load. If you need 30 amps, then **RUN 30 AMP MATERIALS** Wires, connectors, relays, terminals, whatever. DO NOT skimp, DO NOT assume. And if can't decide GO BIGGER. 14ga instead of 18ga if you're unsure. Sure, it's huge, but it will handle anything, pretty much, that you'll need. Youare running a 'backbone' power wire. Be a shame to run one too small and then have to run it again when you added something else.
You have been warned, and I have therefore performed the perfunctory CYA that any instructible-ish thing should have.
Now... go do it.
Last edited by houtex; 1/18/12 at 07:44 PM.
1/18/12, 08:18 PM
#17
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That is the most confusing thing ive ever read. If I doodoo (lol) this would I have to do this for each tail light. And If for each tail light would I have to do it for the tail light wire and the turn signal wire?
1/19/12, 08:25 PM
#18
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No.
You run a power wire to the back. Use a relay. Use a fuse. Run it off the "Key on", as you don't want it to be hot all the time, only when the car is on.
At the back: Use a terminal. Place to branch off and run other wires. Whatever will work. A screw terminal is advisable.
From the terminal: Two more power lines to the lights each.
At the lights: Two relays each light. One for brakes. One for running.
Splice into the brake/running light original harness, and use those to turn the relays on/off as needed, and run your lights from the new power source instead of the original wiring.
---
I... don't know how to make it simpler. I'm sorry. Have you never heard of the horn relay wiring for your vintage car? Where you run a power wire from the battery to the horns, using a fuse and relay, and run the relay off the original wire to turn it on and off? This is done because the horn wiring in a 40+ year old car can't actually blow the horns anymore, they're too used up and old.
This is the same idea for the lights. Your running the power directly with a new wire from the battery, and using the old wire to turn them on and off with relays, which the old wiring can handle with ease.
You run a power wire to the back. Use a relay. Use a fuse. Run it off the "Key on", as you don't want it to be hot all the time, only when the car is on.
At the back: Use a terminal. Place to branch off and run other wires. Whatever will work. A screw terminal is advisable.
From the terminal: Two more power lines to the lights each.
At the lights: Two relays each light. One for brakes. One for running.
Splice into the brake/running light original harness, and use those to turn the relays on/off as needed, and run your lights from the new power source instead of the original wiring.
---
I... don't know how to make it simpler. I'm sorry. Have you never heard of the horn relay wiring for your vintage car? Where you run a power wire from the battery to the horns, using a fuse and relay, and run the relay off the original wire to turn it on and off? This is done because the horn wiring in a 40+ year old car can't actually blow the horns anymore, they're too used up and old.
This is the same idea for the lights. Your running the power directly with a new wire from the battery, and using the old wire to turn them on and off with relays, which the old wiring can handle with ease.
Last edited by houtex; 1/19/12 at 08:27 PM.
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