1964-1970 Mustang Member Tech & Restoration Discussion

289 engine help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 7, 2006 | 10:06 AM
  #1  
mongooztt's Avatar
Thread Starter
V6 Member
 
Joined: July 6, 2004
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
I've recently started working on my '68 coupe again and I would like to get her running in time for spring and summer. I'm not doing anything major until I graduate college in May, but like I said I just want it running so I can drive it.

I've got a coolant leak between the block and the timing chain plate. I've already dissassembled the front of the engine and it looks like I have to drop the oil pan to pull the plate off. Is this correct? I'm wondering if this is possible with the engine in the car? Would it be 10x easier just to buy an engine stand to do this with the motor out of the car?

Also, my pass. quarter window will not roll up, is it hard to remove and fix?

I'll post pics later. Thanks.
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2006 | 01:39 PM
  #2  
Big D's Avatar
FR500 Member
 
Joined: January 4, 2005
Posts: 3,371
Likes: 2
From: Ontario Canada
For the passenger side window all u have to do is take out the rear seats and theres a rubber moulding on the side nearest to the door u have to take off...take off the window handle and it should come off...
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2006 | 03:42 PM
  #3  
69boss429's Avatar
V6 Member
 
Joined: March 7, 2005
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
You do not have to remove the pan,but you do have to remove the front pan bolts as they go into the timing cover.Can be done while in the car,just take your time.Be sure to put sealer on the water pump bolts as some of them go into the water passages and will leak at the bolt head.
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2006 | 06:54 PM
  #4  
mongooztt's Avatar
Thread Starter
V6 Member
 
Joined: July 6, 2004
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Originally posted by Big D@January 7, 2006, 2:42 PM
For the passenger side window all u have to do is take out the rear seats and theres a rubber moulding on the side nearest to the door u have to take off...take off the window handle and it should come off...
Thanks, I found the problem, one of the plastic rollers snapped and the arm came out of the track. I got it fixed into the up position until I can get some new rollers.
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2006 | 07:36 PM
  #5  
mongooztt's Avatar
Thread Starter
V6 Member
 
Joined: July 6, 2004
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Originally posted by 69boss429@January 7, 2006, 4:45 PM
You do not have to remove the pan,but you do have to remove the front pan bolts as they go into the timing cover.Can be done while in the car,just take your time.Be sure to put sealer on the water pump bolts as some of them go into the water passages and will leak at the bolt head.
I might just go ahead and pull the engine and go through it. I rebuilt the C4 last summer. My goal is to make it reliable enough to serve as a part-time driver until I can start a rotisserie resto-mod on it.

Here of some pics, in the garage now and when I was in high school in 2001

[attachmentid=42360]

[attachmentid=42361]
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2006 | 07:41 PM
  #6  
mongooztt's Avatar
Thread Starter
V6 Member
 
Joined: July 6, 2004
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Here is the tired old 289. It has a 67 steering wheel, taillight bezels and fender letters, and it had a 67 grille when I bought it. But everything will be 68 when I restore it.

[attachmentid=42362] then

[attachmentid=42363] now
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2006 | 06:24 PM
  #7  
Skorch52's Avatar
Bullitt Member
 
Joined: January 30, 2004
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
From: Muncy PA
If you are going to remove the water pump and timing cover, I recommend buying new bolts for the water pump (they come in a kit), using quality sealant with the gasket, and replace the hoses and clamps while you are in there.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Road_Runner
5.0L GT Modifications
67
Sep 2, 2024 04:46 PM
trackpack13gt
SN95 Mustang
6
Oct 2, 2015 08:20 PM
Mustang65bob
Introductions
1
Sep 21, 2015 11:30 AM




All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:49 AM.