TheRealOne

I've been having some idle issues latley and I wanted to remove my throttle body to clean it because I read on here that cleaning it could solve it. Is it hard to remove it? I know it only has four screws but is there any other issues or advise? I don't want a 30 min job to turn into a tow to a dealer!!

05YellowGT

The top two are bolts and the bottom two are studs that stay inplace and a nut you remove , pretty simple to remove the TB. Make sure you get throttle body cleaner and not carb cleaner ...

John SCB

About 8 mnonths ago, I followed a video link on this forum that showed how to remove the TB and clean it. The end result created more problems than it solved. There were some erratic idle issues that took a while to work out and never did completely go away.

In the video, the tech is cycling the butterfly valves and using TB cleaner and a rag to wipe everything. There was some disagreement on this forum about that procedure. Unless the TB is very gummed up and dirty, I would leave it on the car and simply remove boot and use the correct TB cleaner only. Do not scrub or wipe with anything. I think there's a Teflon coating on the TB that can be easily removed or compromised if aggressive cleaning is applied.

When I removed the TB 8 months after doing the video procedure, I was surprised to see how filthy it was (compared to the years of normal use before cleaning it the first time). I don't know if it was just a coincidence but in retrospect, I would not remove the TB again just to clean it.

Now, I've got a new 85mm TB with a supercharger attached on the other end. The idle is much smoother than the stock TB provided and the car has never run better.

TTS197

Follow steps 1-9 and make sure you use a throttle body cleaner that is safe for electronics other wise you'll have problems with the idle.

http://mustangsdaily.com/blog/2010/1...10-mustang-gt/

05RedGT

I removed my TB and cleaned it and have had no problems. Runs much better after cleaning.

TheRealOne

Thanks guys! I'm going to try removing it and cleaning it tomorrow. I'll let you guys know what happens. One more question, do I have to disconnect the battery?

houtex

Yes, the computer must be retrained to the 'new to it' throttle body, in effect. You disconnect the battery, then do the TB clean, then reconnect the battery (as long as it's been 20 minutes, that is).

Then go drive it normally (that is, 'the general public' normally, not 'I'm gonna ram about like I normally do vrooom!!!' normally.) for about 10 miles, and that should retrain the computer enough.

Any time you do something of this nature that changes how things are 'read' by the computer, you should do a retrain, IMO.

runfox

I took my posative battery cable off my battery to clean the corrostion . When I reconnected the cable, my car idle was irratic and the rpm was down to like 500 -700. I took it to my dealsrship and they said the throttle body needed cleaning and the comp idle speed reset, they wanted like $200.00 for that. My car was running fine before I took the battery cable off. So is this a normal thing when you take the battery cable off, the computer needs reset somehow?? Im going to have to do something soon casue when I let off the gas the rpm drops to 500 and almost stalls sometimes, a real pain.

05YellowGT

When you disconnect the battery the adaptive memory is cleared , the same thing happens when you re-flash your tune , at least with an SCT it does. If some sensor has been going bad and starts giving data the computer isn't expecting it will use the data stored in adaptive memory instead and the car will still run OK. Then once the memory is cleared it no longer has the good data and has to use what the sensor is giving it and the car no longer runs as it should ...

TheRealOne

Went ahead and cleaned it. I disconnected the battery as directed. The idle seems stable at 750. I previously reflashed it and cleared the Check Engine so we'll see what happens. I hope not but I think eventually it's going to need to be serviced. Like I said, I hope not!

karman

This is what I used for full emissions re-learning:
I know it says it is for GM but i think all the testing is the same (ob2 specific)
General Motors Driving Cycle

A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Reprinted on OBDII web site courtesy of General Motors Corporation
© General Motors Corporation

houtex

It is normal because the car 'forgot' about the dirty TB when you disconnected the battery. So it's running as if the TB is clean, when it isn't.

Go get TB cleaner, get home, take off battery terminal, take off TB, clean it, reinstall it, put battery back on, do what Karman's post says and you'll be in fine shape. Repeat this every 20-30K miles for optimum performance.

runfox

Thanks for the help so everyone. I am going to get some TB cleaner and do this, but Im trying to figure out this learn proccess. I'm trying to imagine how Im going to from 55 mph to 20 with out using the clutch and changing gears. I guess Ill have to stay in 4th, though 20 mph in 4th gear dosent sound doable. Some one else recommened 60mph to 40 which would work in 4th gear. I dont see me coasting down to 20 mph in 4th and not ******* out or stalling the engine. This would all be fine with and automatic, but I have a 5 speed manual !!

runfox

OK I talked to my Ford parts dept, asked for some TB cleaner, they don't sell it, the dealership, hooks your car up to a machine and flushes the TB and injectors all at once. I would have done that but dont have the $200.00 right now. So I bought some TB cleaner and some Fuel system cleaner to add when I fill up my tank.

I cleaned my TB, very easy to take off, and it was not really very dirty for 60k miles. I don't see anything there that would really effect performance, if it was ,it would be minimal. I think dirty fuel injectors effect performance much more. I started it up and followed Karmens list, it runs fine now. Before the idle RPM was low and erratic,it stalled on my twice yesterday, now its 750-800 rpm at idle with A/C running , nice and smooth.

I cant really think of anything I did different when I started it before, but I guess that procedure works.

On more thing, are these metal coils in the air intake hose the ones everybody says they remove??? They are metal, and I can see how they restrict the air intake but how the heck do you get them out, without messing up your intake hose??

karman

Wow.
It's been a long time since I saw an intake hose with one of those.
They stopped putting them in by the end of the first year.
As I remember, you just yank it out.
My 2006 didn't have one, so I've never actually removed one.

houtex

You don't see that black gunk in your TB in the second picture, Tim?

Unless that's a shadow (and I don't think it is) that's the crap we're talking about. The TB behind the butterflies should be as silver as the edges are in that picture. And you can see the carbon on the edges of the TB 'front' picture too. All that is the stuff that causes the TB sensing to change, and should be cleaned out.

However, whatever you did, I am glad that it's running better for you!

runfox

Houtex, I cleaned the black gunk off, I just didnt think it would have much effect, I dont see how the TB senses the gunk, but it drives much better , so I guess your right!!

As for the coils I guess Ill have to see if I can pull them out, without messing intake hose up. I guess Ford engineers realized they werent needed after 05.That should certainly improve air flow I would think!!

Lime GT

I didn't feel any power increase removing mine but there's probably a couple hp in the higher rpms. I think I just ran a small screwdriver between the air tube and the vapor cartridge to break them free of each other and then worked the unit out.

houtex

Oh, well, there ya go.

Yes, that gunk keeps the TB from closing, and making a decent seal, which affects the amount of air being allowed into the intake. This causes the running issues, as the computer's being 'fooled' into thinking there's less or more air than is really getting to the cylinders.

Also, turbulence can actually screw things up pretty quick. There was a build of a '70 Mach I with a Modular 4.6 being put in it. This thing was *highly* sensitive to how close the air filter was to the TB, the sensor, a whole slew of things had to be rethought before the computer was happy with the intake. Even putting your hand *close* to the intake (sans filter) would mess things up pretty bad. Those sensors are sensitive.

Anyway, again, glad it's better!

05YellowGT

I can't believe none of us , myself included , thought to give him this link before he did it ...

https://themustangsource.com/f669/br...e-body-481491/