I just drained and refilled the trans at 65K. I would like some input from those that have done this before on the 05 up TR3650.

1) I had trouble getting the whole 3.2 qts in without it dripping. I did fully drain it but I could not get the car up high enough and also level to accurately measure the "1/2" below the fill hole.". It started dripping right at the end of the 3rd qt so I lowered the car approx 2 inches. (Minimum that could and still access the fill plug.) I was able to get a small amount in from the 4th qt before it started dripping again. - How did you deal with this problem? I wasn't too comfortable getting the car up entirely on four stands so I only elevated the front. I am thinking that this should be about right for fill level but I'd like to be able to check it better. (May have to get it on a lift.)

2) I took it for a short test drive and the first thing I experienced at slow speeds less that 20 Mph was some clashing going through the gears on 3rd and 4th. I ran through them some more but slower shifting and it worked ok. Also once that settled out I experienced something similar at higher speed and then after some use it appears to have cleared up. Is it typical to require some break in after a drain or is something else going on here? (Fluid level.)

 

I put mine up on all fours to make sure it was level drained it and filled it with some Redline and it shifted way smoother then with the stock fluid I also had the same result with Royal Purple in my GT500's 6spd

 

What points on the car did you rest it on stands or did you use a lift?

 

I used a lift but you should be able to put the stands under the K-member in front and the axle in the rear

 

used the lift too...so much easier, might be worth a couple bucks to have a local garage check it for you. careful- Ive got to watch the approach on mine- its a drive-on, the nose clears, but the rockers rub- gotta put a block on the ramps (going to lengthen the ramps this summer).

BTW, gotta put a plug out there for some oil: royal purple 'fixed' my burnt 2nd synchro (powershifting hurt it pretty good, would not shift at over 4k at all)
I'm typically pessimistic about oil claims, but I'm sold- that stuff is worth the price. My tranny was screwed up for months, somebody in here recommended trying RP, figured what the heck- suprised the heck out of me, but third was immediately better than ever, just falls into gear, and within a hour or so of driving that balky second was silky smooth- even at 6k!

 

So I went out to do this today, got the car up... can't find the filler hole. I feel a little silly now. I have a pdf of the service, but it doesn't really show where i should be looking. Based on stuff I've read, I don't need to drop the trans... but I'm really unsure of where to look.

I found the drain though!

 

Usually they are on the found on the pass. side on the side of the trans.

 

I put mine up on jack stands and changed it that way. Used RP and it shifts fine...

 

Got it. Tight fit in there but wasn't as bad as I anticipated.

 

I have an 07 GT/CS with 65k and have NEVER changed the tranny fluid, also it shifts fine but was thinking of going to Royal Purple Syncromax. Is this ok to use as I am not sure the stangs owners manual says anything about adding synthetic tranny fluid. I just want to make sure i am doing the right thing!

Thanks

 

I had the dealer ship put it in mine quite sometime ago ...

 

I've been meaning to swap mine out for a while, keep forgetting.. only have crankiness on 1-2 when fluid is cold.

First rule is always make sure to know where the fill plug is, AND that you can get it open BEFORE you touch the drain.

 

What amazes me is there's no recommendation in the Ford maintenance schedule for this (at least in the 2006 manual.) Up to 150k miles and no recommendation to change the manual transmission lube.

That surprised me.

 

Synthetic should be good for about 50k. Conventional about 30k.

 

On a manual? Geez Everett - no wonder there's an oil shortage.

Hell I have 253k on my 83 F150 4 spd and have only changed the trans fluid once - @ 236,000 in 2002. Regular old gear oil - 90w dino. Still running strong and shifts normal.

I ran 2 Land Cruisers over 100k and never changed their manny tranny fluid either.



I think some guys are getting carried away. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. (Read about the guy that just changed his diff fluid? It was working great with Motorcraft but he "just had to change to Royal Perp" - and now has axle noise. And look what happened to the OP.)

If the manual doesn't say to do it, then its just 'as needed' according to a good mechanic.

 

Naw. I use synthetic.

 

I didn't really come back to this. I put it up on a lift at work and the fluid level was perfect. It was overflowed with the front on stands just enough for me to get under the car. With the car level, the fluid is level.

Also the initial harshness has subsided and got better after a few miles. Now that the temp is up, it shifts better than ever. Literally two finger shifts with a hurst short throw.

With temps near freezing on cold oil the car needs to be shifted easy into 3rd and 4th. With the factory fill it did the same but on 2nd and 3rd.

Also my understanding is the factory is Mobil 1 syn ATF.
http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...hetic_atf.aspx


Did you put the entire car up or just the front? It freaks me out to get it on four corners and there is no way I am getting under it.

 

I just changed the tranny fluid on my '07 CS 5 speed and I have 65k. I used royal purple Syncromax & I could feel smoother shifting almost immediately also the shifter felt cooler on a 150 mile hiway run but also the outside temp as about 65 so need to see how it is when it is hotter out. So far no issues or complaints using RP will let you know if anything changes

 

I also noticed the cooler shifter (Hurst) on interstate driving.

 

For those of you using Royal Purple, which type and weight? I would love to get the stock fluid out of my tranny. Thanks.