Mark Fergel

Thanks. Still undecided about keeping them long term. If I do, I need some 25mm spacers. Would actually like something wider as well. Unfortunately, the American Muscle 10" replicas aren't available in silver and they've told me that their center cap is actually larger than these factory rims so I'd have mismatched center caps even if they were offered in silver.

CCSTANG

Here are a few pics of my baby!

Tuffstang06

*Update*

Wades GT

Latest pic....

SilverSkoundrel

Scchhweet

Tony Alonso

Looks great!

Cavero

No more CS6 hood?

Wades GT

It wouldn't clear the supercharger and the strut brace.



And I wanted the heat extractors closer to the supercharger

Hadtohaveit'13

That is a clean look, love it!

Cavero

Oops, forgot! Sorry, I think that's the second time you've told me that. Obviously its too late now but I wonder if you could have tried Steeda engine mounts to lower the engine up to 1/2". Doesn't help w/ the STB though. I'm dealing with my clearance issues (strut mount bolts) by cutting out the bottom sections of the hood

Wades GT

Supercharger would have cleared but the st brace but wouldn't have cleared with the steeda mounts. I had the same issues with the strut tower studs hitting the hood. After I put the hood pins in and I could no longer slam the hood I never had an issue with the strut tower studs hitting. The cs6 hood must have just enough flex that the hood hits when only slamming the hood by letting the hood drop like a normal hood.

Fill those marks in with touch up paint, then try gently latching the hood by pressing the front down right above the latch. THat may solve that issue, or it's worth a shot atleast.

Cavero

Its not the marks that bug me, my car's a daily driver and its racked up visual blemishes despite my best efforts. Its the clunking as I'm driving that make me crazy. Looking at the underside of the hood, its only hitting in 2 places: the strut mount bolts and the intake tube (right where it meets the TB). I lowered my engine 1/4" when I put the steeda engine mounts in, I might go the other 1/4" down for a total of 1/2".

Wades GT

Hopefully that will work for you. It sucks they molded the under side of those hoods to have less clearance than a stock hood.

Cavero

Not sure if its that or if they took it out of the mold too soon and it drooped

06blackvertstang

Wade what are you dropped on?

Wades GT

2 inch drop using eibach lowering springs.... not sure if I spelled eibach right.. im on my cell

06blackvertstang

Sportlines? What else do you have it paired with. I'm starting to notice all the best cars have these springs. And is it a daily driver? If so hows the ground clearance? I've heard you just have to drive it like a lowered car

Wades GT

My car is my weekend warrior, during the week I drive the duty..




My suspesion list...

Front

Gt 500 strut mounts
Gt 500 control arms
FRPP front sway bar
Tokico hp struts
FRPP body brace
2012 Boss 302 strut brace


Rear

Gt500 control arms - I tried others but the Gt 500's were just a little bit shorter than the others, wich tightened up the rear end and also helped the pinion angle out when I lowered the car.

Roush adjutable upper control arm - used it to correct the pinion angle from lowering the car... added bonus , it also kills wheel hop

Tokico hp shocks

Lakewood adjustibale pan hard bar - used this to center the rear axle

Lakewood body stiffner
FRPP sway bar

06blackvertstang

Dang. That's what I'm afraid of. I want to go low but I don't wanna replace all that stuff. Hmm

Thanks for typing all that out by the way haha. That's an exhaustive list

Cavero

you don't NEED all that stuff. Wade just has an addiction like the rest of us

For lowering the car you only need the springs, shocks/struts, adjustable panhard rod (sometimes), and some heavier duty upper strut mounts (the original GT ones are infamous for distorting under the force of lowering springs which makes them "pop" over big bumps).

Then there are optional things to correct your suspension geometry, like long stem ball joints (i.e. steeda X5), bumpsteer kits, control arm relocation brackets, adjustable control arms (easiest if you just go with the adjustable UCA). Depends on what you want your car to do. If its doing track duty, you'll probably want some of the optional items. If its just cruising on the street, save your cash for something else.