how crappy are these things. i just got an 06 GT 2 months ago and really cranked the speakers for the first time today. are they the weak link in the base system? I'm an older dude and don't want/need/desire some super high end system.

if I throw some aftermarket 6x8s in there - will it sound a lot better? - or do I need a new head-unit too? I was thinking about spending around 80-100 per pair. any suggestions???

 

I would first replace the factory door and rear deck speakers. 6x8's will fit all around. Next step would be a better head unit. Later you can do door subs or trunk mounted subs and some amps if you get the itch.

 

Agreed. Replacing the speakers is easy and you will notice an improvement immediately.

 

One more thing to really improve the sound quality. Try using some sound dampener such as DynaMat, FatMat or another product on the inside of the outer door panel, inner door panels, firewall, floors, trouck areas, as well as the wheel wells. Not only does it deaden the outside noises it will improve the midrange from the doors as well as help to stiffle any rattles.
Cheap and easy improvement to go with the new speakers.

The only problem is knowing when to stop with the audio upgrades!

This is how I ended up..

Audio Modifications:

• Alpine 9847 Head Unit

• Rockford Fosgate P3001

•  
  • Certified 242 Watts RMS Per Channel @ 4 ohms
  • Certified 1209 Watts Maximum Power

• Rockford Fosgate P4002

•  
  • Certified 95 Watts RMS Per Channel @ 4 Ohms
  • Certified 1728 Watts Maximum Power

• Rockford Fosgate T1682C

•  
  • 1 Pair 6â€�x 8â€� Coaxial Mounted in Factory Upper Door Locations
  • 1 Pair 6â€�x 8â€� Coaxial Mounted in Factory Rear Deck Locations

• Rockford Fosgate Stage 1 P18S4 8â€� Subwoofers

•  
  • Mounted in Factory Door Subwoofer Enclosures

• Rockford Fosgate Stage 1 P112S4 12â€� Subwoofers

•  
  • Mounted in Trunk Custom Enclosure

• FatMat – Floors, Doors, Wells, Firewall and Trunk
• Monster Cable Audio Cabling and Wires

• Custom Subwoofer Enclosure

•  
  • ¾ MDX, Fiberglass Overlay, Factory Paint (Ebony)
  • 2.0 Cu. Ft. Internal
  • Mustang “Running Ponyâ€� Embossed into Fiberglass
  • Created by TC Customz of Canada

 

thanks for the replies! what about baffles for the speakers - are getting those enclosures for the speakers worth it?? They're like $10 a pair.

 

For the doors I would suggest a dampening mat (DynaMat / FatMat) for the inside portion of the outershell behind the upper door speaker. A small sheet will do, this will dampen the rattle from the door and give you a little better midrange, a little brighter sound. This will run under $20.00 and do a better job than a baffle enclosure.

 

Not to discourage you, A-Rex, but your head unit may not be powerful enough to drive any half-way decent speakers. You may need to add on a line-level amplifier to get the results you're looking for.
And I feel your pain, nbk... I'd tell you what I "ended up" with if I ever ended upgrading. lol

 

 

thanks for the adivce so far guys.

i'm thinking about getting a head-unit too. i like the Alpine 9856 ($200) to go along with a set of Pioneer 3-ways up front ($80) and a set of Pioneer 2-ways in the rear ($60). I like the way the Apline's integrate the iPod. The iPod cable is $30 and I'd have full control from my head-unit. The Apline unit is 18 watts RMS and 50 watt max. I know it is not a big-donkey system - but I'm sure it will provide the performance that I am looking for.

This puts me at around $370 for the set-up. I'll have an integrated iPod, MP3 cabability and 4 new speakers. I think for the money - it'll be a definet upgrade from what I have!

Anyone have any thoughts/opinions on my proposed set-up!

 

This sounds great. It gives you an improved sound base and plenty of room to upgrade / add more components later on.

I would still consider using some dampening behind the door speakers since the panel has to be removed anyway. Only take an extra hour of work and it definitely adds to the quality of the sound.

 

Just my opinion, Adam, but think about skipping the rear speakers and leave the stock ones in. I think the money might be better spent on an amp.

 

OK - I'll take you advice.With your system - I'm sure you know what you are talking about.

Now do I get a sheet of this to cover the entire door? What About those baffles on the rear deck speakers - I feel with the whole open trunk - I'd get some better performance with a pair of baffels in the rear. What do you think?

 

nbk - did you dynamat the whole car? If so, what was the total material cost? I don't think the labor is all that intensive. I understand the dampening factor on external noise, but hadn't thought that much about sound. Makes sense, tho, since even equalized my system sounds a bit bright.

 

Adam, I'm not sure what you mean by the baffles for the rear deck. Please explain.

 

Ok - now that the subject has moved to amps as well - can someone educate me. Would I go with 4 channel, since there are 4 speakers. Or do I do a 2 channel - 1 channel for the front and one for the rear.

And with the speakers I'm leaning towards - I probably on need something like 40-50 watts per channel on a 4 channel. Or and 80 watt one a 2 channel amp. Is this how you look at this type of thing??

 

Baffles are like soft enclosures for the speakers - I was them on Crutchfield.

It gives them some backing so the sounds wants to go out the front of the speakers as opposed to the front and rear. Does this make sense? Here is a link to what I am talking about:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-KsK7foR...ther_items#Tab

 

I would go with a 4-channel, since your head unit is likely 4-channel. This way you can adjust the balance left/right and front/rear. The other option, for now, would be two 2-channel amps, one mounted up front (maybe even under passenger seat) and one in the trunk. Doing this would make it much easier at a later point to add an amp and subwoofer in the trunk.

 

OK - I have a Dynamat question - Crutchfield sells 10"x10" sheets - is this good enough for the speaker location - or are you guys talking about getting a whole roll and doing the entire door?

 

O.K. I get the baffle thing. I seriously question that there would be any discernible difference in sound: 1) most of the sound will come from the front if only because of proximity to your ears 2) any improvement in sound quality would be lost to road noise. On the other hand, the baffles would keep foreign objects out of the speaker mechanics and they make for a nicer-looking installation. And for nine bucks, WTH?

 

What I understand is that the whole door should be done, around any moving parts, of course, and there are threads with pics either on this forum or on another Stang forum. I've also heard that there are less expensive alternatives to Dynamat, but similarly effective.