TacoBill

Nothing of significance, but here are a few pics related to 08+ models with Ambient Lighting.
Also, a few pics related to the redesigned Shifter Handle Block and Support Rod Clamp.


Ambient Lighting switch located adjacent to the cupholder



Disconnect the 2 electrical plugs directly under the Ambient Lighting switch prior to removing the top center console











Revised Support Rod Clamp gets installed the same way as the original





Revised Shifter Handle Block gets installed the same way as the original, 2 bolt clamping side for the shift handle, 1 bolt clamping side to the center shifter post.
As the previous design, in static neutral, rotate (clock) the shift handle to center the shift **** within the shifter opening of the center console.

Note: After the re-installation of the leather shifter boot, check to see if the Shifter Block rubs against the edge of the console opening. This condition may cause a reat in the boot. Rotate the Shifter Handle block as necessary to eliminate and riding conditions.

mot250

OK, so what is the difference between the original shifter block and the new shfter block? Same question for the original and revised suppport rod block? Lastly, when were these revisions effective? I did my MGW install in late Oct 2007, just in time to store the car for the winter but I did get a few drives on the new MGW shifter before storage and it rocks

Treadhead

I broke off one of the rear studs while tightening one of the 10mm nuts. Anyone else have this problem? It didn't feel like it was anywhere close to being tight so either the stud was about to break or I'm alot stronger than I thought.

I'm not sure how these studs are actually attached to the car but, they don't seem very strong. My friend who was helping suggested drilling it all the way through and then using a small bolt to secure that side. Anyone have any better ideas or thoughts on this one? Any help is greatly appreciated, Jimmy.

Here's a pic of what it should look like and the broken one.

Tispco

Those studs are welded on. I don't think you have much choice other than to drill through and put a bolt in. Just be careful there is nothing on the other side you would drill into.

anthony05gt

Just drill through and install a quarter inch bolt, nut and washers. You could even JB Weld the nut to the top side of the tunnel so you won't need a second person up top the next time you need to pull the shifter for a clutch or something.

Treadhead

Thanks for the responses guys. We figured that would be the only/best way but, wanted to see if anyone had a different idea.

Treadhead

Well, I finally got around to drilling out that broken stud. Man that was a pain in the rear! I didn't think we were ever gonna get it done but, it finally cut through. After that it was piece of cake. Put the new bolt through, tightened it up and it shifts like a dream now. It was kinda notchy before and it's nice and smooth now.

mot250

Ok, I ask again, what is the difference between the redesigned shifter block and support rod lock compared to the original peices nad when was the redesign date?

TacoBill

For the best (and accurate) answer, you're better off contacting George at MGW with these Q's.

TASSY5

i\Installed miine yesterday the write up was spot on perfect and well referenced. I went 7 turns out. awesome shifter.

Thanks Bill

BudgetPlan1

Installed yesterday in a feb 2008 build date GT. Apparently Ford decided stock was noisy too as my car had some type of molded, stiff dampener/heat shield (looks kinda like that carboard-ish stuff they make those biodegradable flower pots out of) attached to the underside of the trans/drive shaft tunnel. Couldn't attach the dynomat to the actual metal of the car unless I wanted to remove it and since it runs pretty far up (past the main body support rod transmission mounting point) it would be kinda involved to remove. Eh, just pressed the dynomat to this insulator...seems fine cuz dynomat will stick to anything.

Additionally, when I started taking the old shifter out, looks like Ford has begun putting their own version of the included Dynomat Sound Plate Barrier around the shifter. I left it out during reassembly and used MGW stuff.

That said, this would likely be about a 45 minute job if the driveshaft wasn't there; it took me about 3.5 hours with my big, fat hands.

Stormbringer

Would it not be easier to take the driveshaft loose and let it hang down?

Phorty

I apologize for waking an old thread but I've been playing with my shifter (I have the beta version) and I'm trying to solve the ripping shift boot issue. Then I came across this thread and saw this photo. This part is different than what I have and it looks like it will lower the connection of the shifter assembly and shift handle and help my situation. Does MGW sell this part separately?

NJ3

Yes they sell it. I got one for my shifter as well, I was a Beta member too.