http://www.powertrax.com/noslip.htm Has anybody had any experience with this product? It installs in your carrier without gear removal for two wheel traction street use.

 

First I've heard of this one... the technology looks really interesting!

 

Ya, i did one about 3 months ago. Broke a bearing and 2 teeth on one side of the gear after the first time i tried to launch.

POS in my opinion. I only paid like $200 for it, so its not a HUGE loss, but still sucks ya know?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Fazm @ February 23, 2006, 5:11 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Ya, i did one about 3 months ago. Broke a bearing and 2 teeth on one side of the gear after the first time i tried to launch.

POS in my opinion. I only paid like $200 for it, so its not a HUGE loss, but still sucks ya know?
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Did you install it ? or have it done ? Sounds like somebody screwed up.

 

I installed it and im an ase certified technician. Before i installed it i noticed the pinion bolt was a slightly different diamater (like 4 thousandths) and didnt want to go through the carrier as well. I think this ended up being the problem as it was most likely rubbing against the race on the passenger side. When i pulled it back apart the race was broken and jammed inside the teeth on the passenger side and cracked them.

The car drove fine for weeks until i tried to do a launch in it. Could have been not broken in yet, or a number of things. But it does do a lot of clicking when you turn, so if noise bothers you, do not get this product. As it only uses dual style springs to allow for the teeth to overlap each other in turns.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Fazm @ February 28, 2006, 10:38 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I installed it and im an ase certified technician. Before i installed it i noticed the pinion bolt was a slightly different diamater (like 4 thousandths) and didnt want to go through the carrier as well. I think this ended up being the problem as it was most likely rubbing against the race on the passenger side. When i pulled it back apart the race was broken and jammed inside the teeth on the passenger side and cracked them.

The car drove fine for weeks until i tried to do a launch in it. Could have been not broken in yet, or a number of things. But it does do a lot of clicking when you turn, so if noise bothers you, do not get this product. As it only uses dual style springs to allow for the teeth to overlap each other in turns.
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Did you use the no-slip or the lock-right? I`m seriously considering the No-slip, it is suppose to be quiet and I`m not really a tire burner!

 

I've talked to two different guys that tried this product. Both told me it was total junk, and both ended up ripping it out and getting a normal type posi unit.

 

I put one of these in my 99 chev silverado was the best thing I ever installed. I worked that truck like a dog and never had a problem with it.

 

i used the lockright. Im sure in an automatic application where you cant jar the rear end as bad, it would work better.

 

Thanks for all the input, I`m probably more confused with the mixed advice. Will do more research. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/headscratch.gif[/img]

 

i-70. Id suggest if you can do it yourself, go for it, just save the old parts. Cant hurt to try? But if you are going to have to pay someone to install it, i would stay clear.

 

I agree with Fazm, if your going to pay someone to go into the rear end, you might as well get a T-lok or truetrac.

 

So reading over these forums, I get mixed reviews. Which is better, T-Lok or TrueTrac? Is the Ford Racing one just as good?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(LimeZoSo @ March 9, 2006, 11:21 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
So reading over these forums, I get mixed reviews. Which is better, T-Lok or TrueTrac? Is the Ford Racing one just as good?
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The T-Lok is just fine for 99% of the population. As long as you don't plan a major power adder AND don't plan to launch hard at the track, you'll be fine with a T-Lok.