Newbie here. A few questions about a 68
#1
Newbie here. A few questions about a 68
I'm going to check out a 1968 289 3 speed numbers matching coupe locally, ie I have the cash and wife has approved the purchase!!!. This would be my first mustang, but not my first classic. I'm a VW guy have a 69 bug and have owned 4 others.
The car is a project but supposedly running and driving. Any mechanical work it needs I am confident I can fix. Body work (rust) is a deal killers.
So my what should I look for when I check out the car. Are there any notorious rust spots? Where to I check to verify its numbers matching(door plates/vin locations etc)? Does that really matter? WTF is a radiator? Also I have been looking for a 1st gen mustang for a while and haven't seen many 289 3 speeds, how rare are they?
Oh and my overall goal is to keep the car and work on it when I have time and keep as original as possible.
Thanks
The car is a project but supposedly running and driving. Any mechanical work it needs I am confident I can fix. Body work (rust) is a deal killers.
So my what should I look for when I check out the car. Are there any notorious rust spots? Where to I check to verify its numbers matching(door plates/vin locations etc)? Does that really matter? WTF is a radiator? Also I have been looking for a 1st gen mustang for a while and haven't seen many 289 3 speeds, how rare are they?
Oh and my overall goal is to keep the car and work on it when I have time and keep as original as possible.
Thanks
The following 2 users liked this post by jh2p4587:
ofequipmentgolf (7/16/16),
rpoppertdomi (7/19/16)
The following users liked this post:
rpoppertdomi (7/19/16)
#3
inside the edge of the drivers door there should be a numbers plate. It may have been painted over, but those are the numbers that will tell you how the car was built. Engine, transmission, gears, interior, etc. Its a code, there are decoder websites like THIS ONE so you can check if it adds up.
lower rust is typical on the front fenders near the doors, also right in from of the windshield there is a vent for air intake... that thing can rust out inside there.
289 3speed manual is more rare than the automatic. Its likely not going to make a huge difference on the value though. Fastbacks and to a lesser extent convertibles are the most in demand classic mustangs. 289 coupes are "everywhere" and are great old cars to have fun with. Keeping them in good shape, clean, and doing popular modifications are what keeps them valuable.
disk brake conversations if possible,
mildly building up the motor,
tasteful wheels/tires,
mildly upgrade suspension,
mildly upgrade exhaust.
Its all about balance. They are super fun cars! Good luck and post some pictures!
lower rust is typical on the front fenders near the doors, also right in from of the windshield there is a vent for air intake... that thing can rust out inside there.
289 3speed manual is more rare than the automatic. Its likely not going to make a huge difference on the value though. Fastbacks and to a lesser extent convertibles are the most in demand classic mustangs. 289 coupes are "everywhere" and are great old cars to have fun with. Keeping them in good shape, clean, and doing popular modifications are what keeps them valuable.
disk brake conversations if possible,
mildly building up the motor,
tasteful wheels/tires,
mildly upgrade suspension,
mildly upgrade exhaust.
Its all about balance. They are super fun cars! Good luck and post some pictures!
Last edited by codeman94; 7/11/16 at 11:41 AM.
#6
From ad...
68 Coupe running. Is a perfect project for a father and son, self build. Your option.
Replacing brake lines front to back, master cylinder, Fuel tank, fuel lines to the carb. running smooth 289 engine solid.
289 v8 - 3spd - original with matching #s.
Asking $6500 OBO serious only.
68 Coupe running. Is a perfect project for a father and son, self build. Your option.
Replacing brake lines front to back, master cylinder, Fuel tank, fuel lines to the carb. running smooth 289 engine solid.
289 v8 - 3spd - original with matching #s.
Asking $6500 OBO serious only.
#7
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
Looks like it has potential! Best of luck!
The following users liked this post:
rpoppertdomi (7/19/16)
#8
Legacy TMS Member
That appears to be a late-build '68, since it has the side marker lights. IIRC, they were required on '69 models, and manufacturers started adding them late in their '68 model runs.
#9
Thanks for the info Paris.. I assume the earlier models without the side markers are more desirable??? I assume bc there are quirks like those in the VW world as well, hood shape, tail light size etc.
Also the sequential signal lights, were those ever standard or were they an option. Im sure they make some conversion kit today to get the effect. I always thought those were bad ***
Also the sequential signal lights, were those ever standard or were they an option. Im sure they make some conversion kit today to get the effect. I always thought those were bad ***
#10
Legacy TMS Member
I don't know that the late model builds were more desirable, and I may have the tip-over wrong. It was either late '67 into the '68 model year, or late '68 into the '69 model year, that the side marker lights were federally mandated.
To the best of my recollection, the only sequential taillights from the 60's era Mustangs were on the the Shelby Mustangs. I think they were right out of the Mercury parts bin back then.
To the best of my recollection, the only sequential taillights from the 60's era Mustangs were on the the Shelby Mustangs. I think they were right out of the Mercury parts bin back then.
#11
Checked out the car, deal didnt happen. It was rusty, both door skins, cowl, hood, deck lid, pass drip rail, front floors both sides. Needed atleast 2 tires and exhaust ended at headers. Did have new tank fuel lines, drums, MC, clutch. Ad was for 6500, offered 3500, he said 5000 I said 4000. Offered 4500 cash as I was walking away, no dice. The search continues.
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