Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs (Post 6526685)

Is that a shot at me? :p

Originally Posted by cdynaco (Post 6526699)

Well, its not like it snows much in Texas. :p


That helps to support the snow load of the roof - as does the ground load of the foundation - all engineered as a system. And helps insulation like Gary said.

2x6 truss chords can be fine if you have some webbing.


A) 60# engineered trusses in a 4/12 roof with 2x6's and webbing support. 28' span.
B) 60# engineered attic room trusses in a 6/12 roof with 2x8 top chord, 2x10 bottom chord, rolled out on a 6x12 blue lam. 28' span.
C) Even the barn has to have engineered trusses for 60#. 24' span.

See the difference?

I've had a roof cave in from snow (not 60#).
And I am not shoveling roofs anymore! :nice:

Originally Posted by Blue Notch (Post 6526681)

My dad wouldn't use them if he didn't think they'd be strong enough. He built our old house and put three additions on it. This is the second addition he's done with our current house. Not like he's some newb. :p

Originally Posted by cdynaco (Post 6526699)

Well, its not like it snows much in Texas. :p


That helps to support the snow load of the roof - as does the ground load of the foundation - all engineered as a system. And helps insulation like Gary said.

2x6 truss chords can be fine for many applications if you have some webbing.

A) 60# engineered trusses in a 4/12 roof with 2x6's and webbing support. 2x6 walls, 28' span.
B) 60# engineered attic room trusses in a 6/12 roof with 2x8 top chord, 2x10 bottom chord, rolled out on a 6x12 glue lam. 2x6 walls, 28' span.
C) Even the barn has to have engineered trusses for 60#. 4/12 roof, 24' span.

See the difference?

I've had a roof cave in from snow (not 60#).
And I am not shoveling roofs anymore! :nice:

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs (Post 6526703)

What's the thickness on that OSB roof decking on the house? Just out of curiosity.

And I freakin hate cellulose insulation!

Originally Posted by cdynaco (Post 6526717)

11/32 (5/8)

Yeah I had it blown for the lower roof but the loft with the attic room trusses was a real screw job. I need R30 in the slope but (I learned later) fiberglass doesn't fit in the 2x8 top chord. If I had known that I would have paid a little extra for 2x10 top chords (lumber is cheap). (One hand not knowing what the other hand is supposed to do at the building dept. :bad: )

Most guys add 2x2 furring strips but I didn't want to do that since the ceiling is 8' and the slope of course is lowering all the way to the wall to 4 1/2'. I wanted as full a ceiling height as possible.
So I had to buy this rigid insulation R18 ($1000!!) with an inch spacer under the roof deck for ventilation (for the soffit vents to vented ridge cap), plus R13 to get to R31. I think insulation has become my single largerst expense (or dang close!)

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs (Post 6526722)

I was just checking on the OSB. Same thing I have in my house. Wasn't sure if snow loads meant 3/4" or not. Span depending of course. Most rafters here are 24" o.c. and I went ahead and did 16" and used 5/8"

24" oc and 7/16" is code here for roofs. No wind load as we are out of hurricane zones and of course no slow loads.

Insulation is a concern here but surprisingly not as much as your neck of the woods. Y'all insulate for warmth in winter and we do it for cool in summer and surprisingly there is a difference.

Typically build everything with exterior walls 10' plate height and under with 2x4 stick. Put R-13 fiberglass in the walls and then sheath the outside in a fiberbrace board that is a R-2 and then add a Dow styrofoam board that is R-4 for a total of R-19 on exterior walls. Blow the flat ceilings with R-38 fiberglass and put batting in sloped ceilings. R-19 to R-30 depending on what will fit. And we use Cool-tech radiant roof decking to shield the house from infrared heat. But it does do a number on cell reception and wi-fi inside the house sometimes.

Originally Posted by cdynaco (Post 6526728)

No doubt the thickness of the decking helps strength in spite of added weight. I went 2' oc but the trusses are engineered for that - incl the dormer spans. But the walls are 16". Wall sheeting is 7/16" here.

I know earthquake zone factors in some but allegedly that is more for ground load than snow load. But they seem to factor in heavy snow, strong wind, and an earthquake all at once. Engineers/bldg dept covering their butts these days. lol

I figured you got away with 2x4 walls in warmer climes. R38 flat ceiling here too. R21 walls (hence 2x6). Under floor has bumped from R25 - R30. I remember that fiberboard sheeting on the ext walls in Missouri. For some reason they don't use that out here. Just tyvek on sheeting.

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs (Post 6526733)

Yeah no underfloor insulation here. Except a 6mil moisture barrier. Concrete slab on grade. No frost line. No basement/crawl space. If you dug a 6' hole here it'd be full of water in a day. lol

Originally Posted by Scothew (Post 6526758)

Long post ADD ahhhhhhhhhhhh

Originally Posted by Rather B.Blown (Post 6526707)

Looks safe to me, I'd sleep in there. What days are your sisters home? :D

Originally Posted by NinjaSteffers (Post 6526863)

Spying on my parents house

Originally Posted by Boss 1409 (Post 6526871)

Creeper!!!! :p

Originally Posted by NinjaSteffers (Post 6526885)

All the ****ing time!