2015 GT Aftermarket Audio options?
#1
2015 GT Aftermarket Audio options?
OK so I've got a 2015 base GT, non Shaker, satellite capable. Love the car, less than thrilled with the radio but I knew that going in. Definitely want to upgrade the sound...anyone have any proven options to suggest? Any unproven?
Crutchfield isn't yet making model specific recommendations and none of the dash kits available are for the 2015 and above models. I confess I'm an audio newb so maybe I missed something, somewhere, but right now I'm a little stumped for answers, good or bad.
Anyone out there do any tinkering yet?
Jeff
Crutchfield isn't yet making model specific recommendations and none of the dash kits available are for the 2015 and above models. I confess I'm an audio newb so maybe I missed something, somewhere, but right now I'm a little stumped for answers, good or bad.
Anyone out there do any tinkering yet?
Jeff
#2
You know what's funny....I don't even really listen to the radio, especially since I upgraded my exhaust. I know you're talking radio here, but a full Magnaflow catback exhaust for my GT is pure music to my ears!
But, back to your radio issue.....a buddy of mine did a full custom set-up because there wasn't much for him to choose from. I'm sure by Spring there will be many more options.
But, back to your radio issue.....a buddy of mine did a full custom set-up because there wasn't much for him to choose from. I'm sure by Spring there will be many more options.
#3
Yeah, by spring i'm also expecting many varieties.
Hah, totally agree
Hah, totally agree
#4
OK so I've got a 2015 base GT, non Shaker, satellite capable. Love the car, less than thrilled with the radio but I knew that going in. Definitely want to upgrade the sound...anyone have any proven options to suggest? Any unproven?
Crutchfield isn't yet making model specific recommendations and none of the dash kits available are for the 2015 and above models. I confess I'm an audio newb so maybe I missed something, somewhere, but right now I'm a little stumped for answers, good or bad.
Anyone out there do any tinkering yet?
Jeff
Crutchfield isn't yet making model specific recommendations and none of the dash kits available are for the 2015 and above models. I confess I'm an audio newb so maybe I missed something, somewhere, but right now I'm a little stumped for answers, good or bad.
Anyone out there do any tinkering yet?
Jeff
#5
Hope he got a processor to tune it all^.
Basically that's your only option, and it's not so bad. These days the factory head units are tied in to so many other systems, that it's just "easier" to tie a processor in between your factory head unit and your amp, and use a laptop to tune the system. You never really need to adjust it after that anyways.
Check out the Audison bit ten. You can do a nice 6.5 component system up front (don't spend the money on replacing the rears), 5ch amp and sub, and some sound deadener for the doors and deck lid. Depending on equipment choices, you could be all in for about $2k-2500. That also depends on if you install or not, and due to the tuning process being a bit more complicated than simply swapping a single din radio in, I recommend at least having the tuning done at a good shop, if not the whole install.
Basically that's your only option, and it's not so bad. These days the factory head units are tied in to so many other systems, that it's just "easier" to tie a processor in between your factory head unit and your amp, and use a laptop to tune the system. You never really need to adjust it after that anyways.
Check out the Audison bit ten. You can do a nice 6.5 component system up front (don't spend the money on replacing the rears), 5ch amp and sub, and some sound deadener for the doors and deck lid. Depending on equipment choices, you could be all in for about $2k-2500. That also depends on if you install or not, and due to the tuning process being a bit more complicated than simply swapping a single din radio in, I recommend at least having the tuning done at a good shop, if not the whole install.
#6
Nice! My goals are more modest...Roush axleback exhaust is on the list. I still wanna hear the radio once I put it in!
#7
I've got a Roush and thought the same thing about the speakers so I bought a 3 component Focal set up in front and a set of Focal's for the rear deck. Also put a JL 12" sub in trunk all powered with a 700 watt JL amp. Sounds amazing man. Was pricy, but figured if I was going to do the sound might as well do it right. All speakers are 6.5" with exception of sub.
Excellent, thanks. I'm of the same mind...do it right. Focals are expensive...what'd you spend for the whole shebang if you don't mind me asking? I haven't really started pricing out options but I will be soon. Thanks for the post!
#8
Hope he got a processor to tune it all^.
Basically that's your only option, and it's not so bad. These days the factory head units are tied in to so many other systems, that it's just "easier" to tie a processor in between your factory head unit and your amp, and use a laptop to tune the system. You never really need to adjust it after that anyways.
Check out the Audison bit ten. You can do a nice 6.5 component system up front (don't spend the money on replacing the rears), 5ch amp and sub, and some sound deadener for the doors and deck lid. Depending on equipment choices, you could be all in for about $2k-2500. That also depends on if you install or not, and due to the tuning process being a bit more complicated than simply swapping a single din radio in, I recommend at least having the tuning done at a good shop, if not the whole install.
Basically that's your only option, and it's not so bad. These days the factory head units are tied in to so many other systems, that it's just "easier" to tie a processor in between your factory head unit and your amp, and use a laptop to tune the system. You never really need to adjust it after that anyways.
Check out the Audison bit ten. You can do a nice 6.5 component system up front (don't spend the money on replacing the rears), 5ch amp and sub, and some sound deadener for the doors and deck lid. Depending on equipment choices, you could be all in for about $2k-2500. That also depends on if you install or not, and due to the tuning process being a bit more complicated than simply swapping a single din radio in, I recommend at least having the tuning done at a good shop, if not the whole install.
Whatever option I end up with will absolutely be installed for me. I have neither the time nor the skillset to do any of this without causing my wipers to go on and never shut off. Thanks for the suggestion on the Audison kit...might be a bit over my budget but I can dream, now can't I?
#9
If you get a bit ten, they're not as expensive as the bit one. I suggest buying one component per month, then having it all installed once you have it all in hand. Helps spread the costs...
#10
I spent a lot of time and money replacing the nine speaker set up in mine. Stock was horrible. The biggest issue I ran into was trying to use a line output converter which ended up being a failure. I ended up having to change the head unit to get the results I wanted which disabled all of my factory integration into the head unit along with steering wheel controls. There is a company that makes modules that allow all of these things to be restored with compatible head units, but they haven't made one for 2015 models yet. Another option could very possibly be to use a processor like the person mentioned in a previous reply. If you keep factory your head unit, a high quality processor will likely be a must if you want good sound quality. The factory amp cannot be bypassed if using the factory head unit. The problem with this is that the speaker leads coming from the factory amp have already been crossed over for specific frequencies to each of the mids and highs. They must be summed back to a full range signal before being sent to an aftermarket amp. I tried doing this with an Audio Control lc7i (line output converter) with dismal results. Ive bought their products in the past and loved them. Current setup is a Kenwood DDX-9902S head unit, Audio control EQS, Hertz HDP-5 5 channel amp, Hertz DCX 87.3 3 inch coax for center channel powered by the head unit, Hertz HSK 163 3 way components in front, Hi Vi Research f1600 6 1/2 inch components in rear deck and Sundown Audio SA-10 10 inch sub.
#11
Having the amp and processor installed Wednesday...going with a Kenwood 5 channel amp (XR900), not sure what processor my installer is using. I'm going to see if he can do front speakers too since I'll be there, but if not I can wait. I might not do a sub in the trunk...I'll have to see how it all sounds first. I'm not much a fan of the booming base I hear in cars these days so if that's the only advantage I'll pass.
Looking forward to the new system, I'll post again when it's in.
#12
I spent a lot of time and money replacing the nine speaker set up in mine. Stock was horrible. The biggest issue I ran into was trying to use a line output converter which ended up being a failure. I ended up having to change the head unit to get the results I wanted which disabled all of my factory integration into the head unit along with steering wheel controls. There is a company that makes modules that allow all of these things to be restored with compatible head units, but they haven't made one for 2015 models yet. Another option could very possibly be to use a processor like the person mentioned in a previous reply. If you keep factory your head unit, a high quality processor will likely be a must if you want good sound quality. The factory amp cannot be bypassed if using the factory head unit. The problem with this is that the speaker leads coming from the factory amp have already been crossed over for specific frequencies to each of the mids and highs. They must be summed back to a full range signal before being sent to an aftermarket amp. I tried doing this with an Audio Control lc7i (line output converter) with dismal results. Ive bought their products in the past and loved them. Current setup is a Kenwood DDX-9902S head unit, Audio control EQS, Hertz HDP-5 5 channel amp, Hertz DCX 87.3 3 inch coax for center channel powered by the head unit, Hertz HSK 163 3 way components in front, Hi Vi Research f1600 6 1/2 inch components in rear deck and Sundown Audio SA-10 10 inch sub.
Are you talking about a 2015? If so, how did you modify the dash for the new head unit?
I'm doing an amp and speakers with a processor tied in for now. New head unit would be great ... nav, Sirius...but as far as I know there aren't yet dash kits available for the 2015.
Anyway, mine's the base model GT so I've only got 6 speakers to worry about lol.
#13
[QUOTE=Al Thor;6950366]OK so I've got a 2015 base GT, non Shaker, satellite capable. Love the car, less than thrilled with the radio but I knew that going in. Definitely want to upgrade the sound...anyone have any proven options to suggest? Any unproven? [QUOTE]
I haven't done anything, but, in your case, have you tried any local salvage yards for a 2015 with the Shaker Pro set up? This would be a reasonable place to start your upgrades, and everything will fit. Just thinkin'
I haven't done anything, but, in your case, have you tried any local salvage yards for a 2015 with the Shaker Pro set up? This would be a reasonable place to start your upgrades, and everything will fit. Just thinkin'
#17
I do car audio installs for folks, word of mouth really, but worked at a shop for a bit... just too high volume for me (I'm slow and like to wire things perfectly which takes forever) and they hired so many installers I went in and had nothing to do. Great place though. Anyway, 2015+ Mustangs use 6.5" woofers, about a 3" midrange (if you have the 3-way system), and a 1" or so tweeter. A good installer can make the "typical" 6.5/3/1" 3-way component setup fit without issue.
Your next decision is whether to go passive (use the crossover available for your components) or go active (which will surely require a processor. My recommendation is to save your money and get the Audison Voce 3-way setup with the passive crossover that is specifically for the midrange/tweeter. The woofer runs separately, active. This is an economical way to "go semi-active" with high end equipment. You can save on amplifier and processor capacity this way. Remember, "full active" means each speaker gets its own amplifier channel so you need enough amplifier channels to accomplish that (and processor channels). I don't have a GT yet but I have a Chevy Volt now and have a custom Audison Voce 3-way installation with an Audison bit 1 off of the stock head unit and I am using the passive crossovers (because the midrange and tweeter are literally right next to each other so no real reason to run them active, not competing) and it sounds excellent. Voces are a teeny bit bright but you can tame it.
Other options that I've heard are Focal Flax, Hertz Mille, and Hybrid Audio. You can also go "raw driver" from Madisound or Parts Express. Many of these speakers are half the price and just as good or better than "car audio speakers" and often those unknown-to-you brands are the ones that made the speakers for your car audio brand. Look at SB Acoustics and Eton to start. Please avoid Polk dB speakers... they're terrible.
I recommend the Arc Audio 1200.6 as the best multi-capable amp out there right now (in my opinion, and I run one).
Your next decision is whether to go passive (use the crossover available for your components) or go active (which will surely require a processor. My recommendation is to save your money and get the Audison Voce 3-way setup with the passive crossover that is specifically for the midrange/tweeter. The woofer runs separately, active. This is an economical way to "go semi-active" with high end equipment. You can save on amplifier and processor capacity this way. Remember, "full active" means each speaker gets its own amplifier channel so you need enough amplifier channels to accomplish that (and processor channels). I don't have a GT yet but I have a Chevy Volt now and have a custom Audison Voce 3-way installation with an Audison bit 1 off of the stock head unit and I am using the passive crossovers (because the midrange and tweeter are literally right next to each other so no real reason to run them active, not competing) and it sounds excellent. Voces are a teeny bit bright but you can tame it.
Other options that I've heard are Focal Flax, Hertz Mille, and Hybrid Audio. You can also go "raw driver" from Madisound or Parts Express. Many of these speakers are half the price and just as good or better than "car audio speakers" and often those unknown-to-you brands are the ones that made the speakers for your car audio brand. Look at SB Acoustics and Eton to start. Please avoid Polk dB speakers... they're terrible.
I recommend the Arc Audio 1200.6 as the best multi-capable amp out there right now (in my opinion, and I run one).
Last edited by sirbOOm; 2/9/16 at 08:58 AM.
#19
Originally Posted by sirbOOm
I do car audio installs for folks, word of mouth really, but worked at a shop for a bit... just too high volume for me (I'm slow and like to wire things perfectly which takes forever) and they hired so many installers I went in and had nothing to do. Great place though. Anyway, 2015+ Mustangs use 6.5" woofers, about a 3" midrange (if you have the 3-way system), and a 1" or so tweeter. A good installer can make the "typical" 6.5/3/1" 3-way component setup fit without issue.
Your next decision is whether to go passive (use the crossover available for your components) or go active (which will surely require a processor. My recommendation is to save your money and get the Audison Voce 3-way setup with the passive crossover that is specifically for the midrange/tweeter. The woofer runs separately, active. This is an economical way to "go semi-active" with high end equipment. You can save on amplifier and processor capacity this way. Remember, "full active" means each speaker gets its own amplifier channel so you need enough amplifier channels to accomplish that (and processor channels). I don't have a GT yet but I have a Chevy Volt now and have a custom Audison Voce 3-way installation with an Audison bit 1 off of the stock head unit and I am using the passive crossovers (because the midrange and tweeter are literally right next to each other so no real reason to run them active, not competing) and it sounds excellent. Voces are a teeny bit bright but you can tame it.
Other options that I've heard are Focal Flax, Hertz Mille, and Hybrid Audio. You can also go "raw driver" from Madisound or Parts Express. Many of these speakers are half the price and just as good or better than "car audio speakers" and often those unknown-to-you brands are the ones that made the speakers for your car audio brand. Look at SB Acoustics and Eton to start. Please avoid Polk dB speakers... they're terrible.
I recommend the Arc Audio 1200.6 as the best multi-capable amp out there right now (in my opinion, and I run one).
Your next decision is whether to go passive (use the crossover available for your components) or go active (which will surely require a processor. My recommendation is to save your money and get the Audison Voce 3-way setup with the passive crossover that is specifically for the midrange/tweeter. The woofer runs separately, active. This is an economical way to "go semi-active" with high end equipment. You can save on amplifier and processor capacity this way. Remember, "full active" means each speaker gets its own amplifier channel so you need enough amplifier channels to accomplish that (and processor channels). I don't have a GT yet but I have a Chevy Volt now and have a custom Audison Voce 3-way installation with an Audison bit 1 off of the stock head unit and I am using the passive crossovers (because the midrange and tweeter are literally right next to each other so no real reason to run them active, not competing) and it sounds excellent. Voces are a teeny bit bright but you can tame it.
Other options that I've heard are Focal Flax, Hertz Mille, and Hybrid Audio. You can also go "raw driver" from Madisound or Parts Express. Many of these speakers are half the price and just as good or better than "car audio speakers" and often those unknown-to-you brands are the ones that made the speakers for your car audio brand. Look at SB Acoustics and Eton to start. Please avoid Polk dB speakers... they're terrible.
I recommend the Arc Audio 1200.6 as the best multi-capable amp out there right now (in my opinion, and I run one).