what would it take to achieve this?
#1
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
what would it take to achieve this?
The pics below are NOT my car, I am wanting to know what it would take to achieve this look for my 2013 Mustang GT?
What I'm talking about is, the drop, the wheel and tire specs?
Anyone have a similar setup? I have a D.I.B. 5.0, i was originally just gonna go with 19" flat black wheels and a 1.5" drop in front and back but after seeing this cobra, i was torn on what i really want to do!
So reading up, i found this info, but still need to know what DROP i would need.
https://themustangsource.com/f802/le...1/#post6652996
What I'm talking about is, the drop, the wheel and tire specs?
Anyone have a similar setup? I have a D.I.B. 5.0, i was originally just gonna go with 19" flat black wheels and a 1.5" drop in front and back but after seeing this cobra, i was torn on what i really want to do!
So reading up, i found this info, but still need to know what DROP i would need.
I found this on another site,.....The tires in the photoshoot are 255/30/20 and 295/30/20. These were picked by the owner based on the suspension setup.
You can go up to 275/35/20 and 305/35/20 on these wheels without issues. Michelin, Nitto, and Pirelli all make 305/35/20's.
Your best bet is to email,....Paul@HoweyIndustries.com
You can go up to 275/35/20 and 305/35/20 on these wheels without issues. Michelin, Nitto, and Pirelli all make 305/35/20's.
Your best bet is to email,....Paul@HoweyIndustries.com
Last edited by DeeJayTJ; 10/2/13 at 03:02 PM.
#7
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#9
Wheels are $1800
Tired (depending on brand) around $1000
Suspension, I think a standard drop would be good. So about 1.5 drop in the rear plus other associate parts....$1000-$1200
***I've been eyeballing and pricing out the same setup.
Tired (depending on brand) around $1000
Suspension, I think a standard drop would be good. So about 1.5 drop in the rear plus other associate parts....$1000-$1200
***I've been eyeballing and pricing out the same setup.
Last edited by XEDES; 10/2/13 at 10:30 PM.
#10
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
the 2013 is not my daily driver, it spends a lot of time in my garage and out on the weekends - although im daily driving it right now until I replace all 4 tires on my truck...
my 2001 Bullitt Mustang is gonna be my loud aggressive road course/track/whatever i want type of car. Currently undergoing an engine rebuild and stroker kit and stage 2 cams. And then I have a turbocharged f150 that is also driven the way it should be (which is the truck that needs new tires)
so the 5.0 is really just my new "pretty car"
#12
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
after my most recent breakup (4 months ago) i learned that i better get all my cars modded and where i want them to be before another high maintenance girlfriend. hopefully no more high maintenance gf's tho, too much stress.
my cars are old but very well taken care of.
#13
Shelby GT500 Member
^ yes i do... but not this month i'll be at mustangfest
I m doing road trip to mustang island starting tmrw 7:45am... its gonna be a long 4 hr dr.... whch part of town r u from.
sorry to hear abt the breakup.. but for evey sunset there wll be a beautiful sunrise.. so hang n there
I m doing road trip to mustang island starting tmrw 7:45am... its gonna be a long 4 hr dr.... whch part of town r u from.
sorry to hear abt the breakup.. but for evey sunset there wll be a beautiful sunrise.. so hang n there
#14
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If you just want to sit pretty then I would just do springs, coilovers are going to run more, yeah you can get exactly the drop you won't but you also will be paying for something you won't be using. That being said the drop with just springs will probably harshen your ride and also will wear out your shocks quicker.
#15
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
If you just want to sit pretty then I would just do springs, coilovers are going to run more, yeah you can get exactly the drop you won't but you also will be paying for something you won't be using. That being said the drop with just springs will probably harshen your ride and also will wear out your shocks quicker.
If i go with springs, i believe it would need a 1.5" drop all around.
@CiniZter - lol i appreciate it, but its much better this way, this person was doing more damage to me than good.
I live on the northside in the spring/woodlands area. (off of rayford rd actually) how about u?
#16
Mach 1 Member
After looking into coilovers, i actually like the idea of them better than springs.
If i go with springs, i believe it would need a 1.5" drop all around.
@CiniZter - lol i appreciate it, but its much better this way, this person was doing more damage to me than good.
I live on the northside in the spring/woodlands area. (off of rayford rd actually) how about u?
If i go with springs, i believe it would need a 1.5" drop all around.
@CiniZter - lol i appreciate it, but its much better this way, this person was doing more damage to me than good.
I live on the northside in the spring/woodlands area. (off of rayford rd actually) how about u?
Spring/Woodlans area? I'm down here in the Upper Kirby area near the Galleria. I won't be at cars and coffee though for November, I'll be offshore... should be here for December!
#17
Yeah that's definitely a coilover drop ... or maybe air suspension. Either way, here's a list of what you will probably need to do that drop correctly and still be able to drive the car:
Coilovers
Camber Kit
Adj. Panhard Rod (preferably with relocation brackets too)
Rear Lower Control Arms & Relocation Brackets
Adj. Rear Upper Control Arm
All in, about $2,500 in suspension plus install & alignment. Probably another $3,000 in wheels & tires.
Then you have something nobody addressed yet -- the rest of the exterior mods. GT500 wing, bumper, splitter, rear valance, and stripes, the mudflaps, plus paint and install on the whole thing will probably run you another $3,000.
So all told, probably about $9k in parts & install, if you don't count the Brembos.
Coilovers
Camber Kit
Adj. Panhard Rod (preferably with relocation brackets too)
Rear Lower Control Arms & Relocation Brackets
Adj. Rear Upper Control Arm
All in, about $2,500 in suspension plus install & alignment. Probably another $3,000 in wheels & tires.
Then you have something nobody addressed yet -- the rest of the exterior mods. GT500 wing, bumper, splitter, rear valance, and stripes, the mudflaps, plus paint and install on the whole thing will probably run you another $3,000.
So all told, probably about $9k in parts & install, if you don't count the Brembos.
#18
Coilovers = Yes, the stance you want will likely require the high adjustability via the threaded body of most coil over kits.
Camber Kit = Not unless you buy a cheap coil over kit that doesn't come with camber adj. top hats.
Adj. Panhard Rod (preferably with relocation brackets too) = Probably not, but a good idea to "Do it right" from a suspension/handling perspective.
Rear Lower Control Arms & Relocation Brackets = No...but again probably a good idea.
Adj. Rear Upper Control Arm = No...aftermarket ball joints w/extended shaft would do the trick...control arms with these ball joint is even better.
Wheels = Wheel width & offset will be a big factor in the look as well. That might be the hardest thing to duplicate if you cant find that information out somehow.
Hope that helps.
Camber Kit = Not unless you buy a cheap coil over kit that doesn't come with camber adj. top hats.
Adj. Panhard Rod (preferably with relocation brackets too) = Probably not, but a good idea to "Do it right" from a suspension/handling perspective.
Rear Lower Control Arms & Relocation Brackets = No...but again probably a good idea.
Adj. Rear Upper Control Arm = No...aftermarket ball joints w/extended shaft would do the trick...control arms with these ball joint is even better.
Wheels = Wheel width & offset will be a big factor in the look as well. That might be the hardest thing to duplicate if you cant find that information out somehow.
Hope that helps.
#19
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Coilovers = Yes, the stance you want will likely require the high adjustability via the threaded body of most coil over kits.
Camber Kit = Not unless you buy a cheap coil over kit that doesn't come with camber adj. top hats.
Adj. Panhard Rod (preferably with relocation brackets too) = Probably not, but a good idea to "Do it right" from a suspension/handling perspective.
Rear Lower Control Arms & Relocation Brackets = No...but again probably a good idea.
Adj. Rear Upper Control Arm = No...aftermarket ball joints w/extended shaft would do the trick...control arms with these ball joint is even better.
Wheels = Wheel width & offset will be a big factor in the look as well. That might be the hardest thing to duplicate if you cant find that information out somehow.
Hope that helps.
Camber Kit = Not unless you buy a cheap coil over kit that doesn't come with camber adj. top hats.
Adj. Panhard Rod (preferably with relocation brackets too) = Probably not, but a good idea to "Do it right" from a suspension/handling perspective.
Rear Lower Control Arms & Relocation Brackets = No...but again probably a good idea.
Adj. Rear Upper Control Arm = No...aftermarket ball joints w/extended shaft would do the trick...control arms with these ball joint is even better.
Wheels = Wheel width & offset will be a big factor in the look as well. That might be the hardest thing to duplicate if you cant find that information out somehow.
Hope that helps.
#20
Coilovers = Yes, the stance you want will likely require the high adjustability via the threaded body of most coil over kits.
Camber Kit = Not unless you buy a cheap coil over kit that doesn't come with camber adj. top hats.
Adj. Panhard Rod (preferably with relocation brackets too) = Probably not, but a good idea to "Do it right" from a suspension/handling perspective.
Rear Lower Control Arms & Relocation Brackets = No...but again probably a good idea.
Adj. Rear Upper Control Arm = No...aftermarket ball joints w/extended shaft would do the trick...control arms with these ball joint is even better.
Wheels = Wheel width & offset will be a big factor in the look as well. That might be the hardest thing to duplicate if you cant find that information out somehow.
Hope that helps.
Camber Kit = Not unless you buy a cheap coil over kit that doesn't come with camber adj. top hats.
Adj. Panhard Rod (preferably with relocation brackets too) = Probably not, but a good idea to "Do it right" from a suspension/handling perspective.
Rear Lower Control Arms & Relocation Brackets = No...but again probably a good idea.
Adj. Rear Upper Control Arm = No...aftermarket ball joints w/extended shaft would do the trick...control arms with these ball joint is even better.
Wheels = Wheel width & offset will be a big factor in the look as well. That might be the hardest thing to duplicate if you cant find that information out somehow.
Hope that helps.
I don't see how the ball joints would do the same thing. For starters, the ball joints are for the front, not the rear. There are no ball joints in a 3-link setup.