What setting on your koni sport struts?
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Cobra R Member
Joined: September 22, 2012
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From: Ontario, California
What setting on your koni sport struts?
I have a lot of threads subscribed to that have recommendations for settings of the highly recommended Koni sport with steeda spring set up. I thought it might be nice to have them in one post to be able to look them up more easily. If you have the Koni sports and steeda springs, what settings do you use for dd and for track days? Thank you in advance.
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Cobra R Member
Joined: September 22, 2012
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From: Ontario, California
I would recommend the sports as a great choice. I've owned non adjustable tokico, bilstein, and boge. Bilstein was my favorite till I drove my current set up. It's a great match for our cars. I now know why people speak so highly of them on this forum.
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Joined: October 1, 2012
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From: columbus, Ohio
this has nothing to do with this thread, but do you know the difference between the 05-10 and the 11-14 koni sports? i have an 05 and a 12. just wondering
Last edited by YoungSequoia; Mar 1, 2013 at 12:37 PM.
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From: Qatar
I plan to install the Koni Yellows in future and will be interested to get feed back on the setup used by various users as well.
Strut mounts are different for both 2005-2010 and 2011+ models. 2011+ users can install the 2005-2010 struts provided that they install 2005-2010 type strut mounts.
Strut mounts are different for both 2005-2010 and 2011+ models. 2011+ users can install the 2005-2010 struts provided that they install 2005-2010 type strut mounts.
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Cobra R Member
Joined: September 22, 2012
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From: Ontario, California
Lol, I went back to full soft for daily driving. The roads around my job at horrible. In the twisty roads around my house, it was a blast. It shook my filings on potholes and uneven pavement. The 1 1/2 front and 1 rear was fun for good roads. I guess this is why you buy adjustable. It is like having a couple of cars. Leave it at full soft for the weeks drive to work and dial it in for the fun weekend drive.
V6 Member
Joined: July 3, 2012
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From: Texarkana Tx
I have the Koni Yellows and Steeda Ultralights. I absolutely love the setup. I too would love an experts opinion of how to set them. I have them 1/2 turn in front and 0 turn in rear and it drives great but still has a little initial body roll. If it ever stops raining when I'm off work I look forward to trying more damping. I've got a set of Strano adjustable sways to install when they arrive. I'm excited like a kid at Christmas.
Mike
Mike
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Cobra R Member
Joined: September 22, 2012
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From: Ontario, California
There are no hard stops. It is infinitely adjustable. You just reference the starting point and measure of your half and full turns.
Bullitt Member
Joined: July 13, 2011
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From: NYC
I keep mine on full soft. better for these roads and for Winter (allows full room for the oil to contract and spread)
I've heard those with freshly installed Konis should keep them on full soft for first 100 miles to break in.
I've also read that settings mean jack sh*t as the valves within the damper's themselves are so inconsistent that one 'turn' on each example may differ.
But your mileage may vary.
I've heard those with freshly installed Konis should keep them on full soft for first 100 miles to break in.
I've also read that settings mean jack sh*t as the valves within the damper's themselves are so inconsistent that one 'turn' on each example may differ.
But your mileage may vary.
V6 Member
Joined: July 3, 2012
Posts: 63
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From: Texarkana Tx
I keep mine on full soft. better for these roads and for Winter (allows full room for the oil to contract and spread)
I've heard those with freshly installed Konis should keep them on full soft for first 100 miles to break in.
I've also read that settings mean jack sh*t as the valves within the damper's themselves are so inconsistent that one 'turn' on each example may differ.
But your mileage may vary.
I've heard those with freshly installed Konis should keep them on full soft for first 100 miles to break in.
I've also read that settings mean jack sh*t as the valves within the damper's themselves are so inconsistent that one 'turn' on each example may differ.
But your mileage may vary.
^^
LOL I hope not!
Bullitt Member
Joined: March 4, 2013
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From: Austin
I was thinking about this the other day. About the linearity of the valving and whether it was consistent from damper to damper. Koni is a pretty good company so I think they may be within 5% of each other but I have no real way of telling without a shock dyno. 
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Joined: May 6, 2012
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From: Austin, TX
here is one write-up. since these koni yellows are rebound adjustable only, FWIW:
link: http://www.bimmerhaus.com/tech/shocktuningTN.html
also, I'm likely going to go with Steeda Sports & Koni Yellows from Sam after i get my car. the nice thing about Konis is you can now get the '11+ version and not have to replace the upper mount. so, the price difference between STRs and yellows is less when you consider you have to also purchase'10 style upper mounts. maybe the STRs are available for '11+ w/o replacing the mount but I haven't seen them yet.
Adjusting the REBOUND Damping Control
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does *not* limit the total amount of roll; it *does* limit how *fast* this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center, ride heights, etc.
It should be noted that too much rebound on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering grip) a that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered.
This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.
STEP 1: With rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your earlier testing, drive the car one of two laps, paying particular attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.
STEP 2: Increase rebound damping three sweeps (or 3/4 turn) on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat Step 2 until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. An increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may result in a loss of cornering power. Note: As with the bump settings, this point will probably be reached at one end of the car before the other.
However, individual drivers may find it desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This can be easily "dialed-in" using slightly excessive rebound settings at either end.
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does *not* limit the total amount of roll; it *does* limit how *fast* this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center, ride heights, etc.
It should be noted that too much rebound on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering grip) a that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered.
This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.
STEP 1: With rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your earlier testing, drive the car one of two laps, paying particular attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.
STEP 2: Increase rebound damping three sweeps (or 3/4 turn) on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat Step 2 until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. An increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may result in a loss of cornering power. Note: As with the bump settings, this point will probably be reached at one end of the car before the other.
However, individual drivers may find it desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This can be easily "dialed-in" using slightly excessive rebound settings at either end.
also, I'm likely going to go with Steeda Sports & Koni Yellows from Sam after i get my car. the nice thing about Konis is you can now get the '11+ version and not have to replace the upper mount. so, the price difference between STRs and yellows is less when you consider you have to also purchase'10 style upper mounts. maybe the STRs are available for '11+ w/o replacing the mount but I haven't seen them yet.
Last edited by y5e06; Mar 20, 2013 at 09:41 AM.
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here is one write-up. since these koni yellows are rebound adjustable only, FWIW:
link: http://www.bimmerhaus.com/tech/shocktuningTN.html
also, I'm likely going to go with Steeda Sports & Koni Yellows from Sam after i get my car. the nice thing about Konis is you can now get the '11+ version and not have to replace the upper mount. so, the price difference between STRs and yellows is less when you consider you have to also purchase'10 style upper mounts. maybe the STRs are available for '11+ w/o replacing the mount but I haven't seen them yet.
link: http://www.bimmerhaus.com/tech/shocktuningTN.html
also, I'm likely going to go with Steeda Sports & Koni Yellows from Sam after i get my car. the nice thing about Konis is you can now get the '11+ version and not have to replace the upper mount. so, the price difference between STRs and yellows is less when you consider you have to also purchase'10 style upper mounts. maybe the STRs are available for '11+ w/o replacing the mount but I haven't seen them yet.
Thread Starter
Cobra R Member
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From: Ontario, California
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Do the GC plates come with the rubber isolator? I bought a package with the sways, panhard, yellows, and hd mounts w/ isolators. So it was hard to pass up. I replaced the o-rings and gave them tons of grease.
Thread Starter
Cobra R Member
Joined: September 22, 2012
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From: Ontario, California
Yup. They come with the isolators. They have the torque specs engraved on them too. They give 3 degrees of camber and I degree of caster adjustment. The steeda mounts give you 1 degree of camber only. I got a good deal on the Koni yellows and mounts from hypermotive. I paid too much for most of my steeda stuff but I try to support local business when I can.
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Yup. They come with the isolators. They have the torque specs engraved on them too. They give 3 degrees of camber and I degree of caster adjustment. The steeda mounts give you 1 degree of camber only. I got a good deal on the Koni yellows and mounts from hypermotive. I paid too much for most of my steeda stuff but I try to support local business when I can.