Watts link: what, why, and who?
#61
GT Member
Steeda runs some pretty good sales every now and then. When I have bought, I've always done it during a 20% off sale. The 9.95 doesn't bother me as I like the quality of their products.
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#62
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You whiners. In the end its irrelevant. Just like some add 3% upcharge for CC on gunbroker. Compare what you get for the net. Inflation is real despite what the liar government says. Look at that bag of chips you just paid $3 bucks for morons. Particularly you Mr V. That's all you whine about is those few bucks. Never mention what you got for your money. If you don't like it don't buy. No reason for your all the time.
Steeda is the best Watts and American Made. With lifetime warranty. With Ford relationship. With someone who'll be around with Ford long term. Construction, mounting, weight. Total net net for what you get and compare them all. Download the instructions. It added to the convincing for me. Factor it all in and it is still the best.
Just wait for a sale.
Steeda is the best Watts and American Made. With lifetime warranty. With Ford relationship. With someone who'll be around with Ford long term. Construction, mounting, weight. Total net net for what you get and compare them all. Download the instructions. It added to the convincing for me. Factor it all in and it is still the best.
Just wait for a sale.
#63
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Steeda is the best Watts and American Made. With lifetime warranty. With Ford relationship. With someone who'll be around with Ford long term. Construction, mounting, weight. Total net net for what you get and compare them all. Download the instructions. It added to the convincing for me. Factor it all in and it is still the best.
Just wait for a sale.
Just wait for a sale.
#65
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I haven't found it if it exists. The closest I've come is when I started looking into suspension. I called Sam Strano and he sells whiteline, steeda, and fays2. His recommend I get the fays2. He said he prefers to not mount the watts link to the diff cover. He said he was concerned about heat build up. He also mentioned the value for money of fays2.
#67
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I have the Fays2 Watts on my 14GT for about 3,000 miles now.
Very noticeable positive change; street and track. On my frost heaved roads in Northern NH it improved handling and ride. Zero NVH for me.
I read someone saying the clamps can move? Not in my experience as I even marked the clamps for position after I read that post.
I installed mine myself and Jim, owner of Fays2, called me back when I had a question on the install and was very helpful.
No experience with the Steeda Watts. I would have bought the Fays2 for the cost difference even though I think Steeda makes nice stuff.
Got mine from Sam Strano as well.
Tod
Very noticeable positive change; street and track. On my frost heaved roads in Northern NH it improved handling and ride. Zero NVH for me.
I read someone saying the clamps can move? Not in my experience as I even marked the clamps for position after I read that post.
I installed mine myself and Jim, owner of Fays2, called me back when I had a question on the install and was very helpful.
No experience with the Steeda Watts. I would have bought the Fays2 for the cost difference even though I think Steeda makes nice stuff.
Got mine from Sam Strano as well.
Tod
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tourer (3/1/17)
#68
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I had a fays2 on my 07. I had it installed "professionally" by a mustang shop in long island. Worst mistake I made was let them install it. It had binding issues and grenaded the rod ends in less than 2000 miles. 1 set of new rod ends and adjustment in geometry and the next set lasted over 30k miles before becoming noisy.
Fun fact, I got t-boned in 2012 in my 07, the wheels hit the sidewalk and crushed the concrete. The wheels broke, the watts was not even tweaked. Worst case scenario on the watts link. If I were to get another one it would be a fays2 unit with spherical rod cups from whiteline....... Not as fun as I mentioned but proves positive the unit is built ford tough like the rest of the car.
Fun fact, I got t-boned in 2012 in my 07, the wheels hit the sidewalk and crushed the concrete. The wheels broke, the watts was not even tweaked. Worst case scenario on the watts link. If I were to get another one it would be a fays2 unit with spherical rod cups from whiteline....... Not as fun as I mentioned but proves positive the unit is built ford tough like the rest of the car.
#69
I have had the Whiteline Watts Link on my 2011 for 2 weeks now. Upon research, owners were saying that "the rear absorbs bumps now rather than reacting to them" and "rear feels like it's finally tied to the front suspension as one working unit"...All true, folks!!!
I've spent a lot of money on a full suspension overhaul to improve the handling of the Stang, but was never satisfied with how the rear handled bumpy roads.
For example, I daily drive home from work on a long, stretch of bumpy, windy road (posted speed limit 65mph). I always had to hold on to the steering wheel really tight in order to control the car's rear end from bouncing all over the place on this specific commute. I upgraded to Swift springs on my coilovers, and that improved some. I also tried firming up the rear coilovers and that also tamed the "rocking boat feel" a bit, but you can only go so firm until you enter stiff territory and every bump feels like a jolt. Regardless, I knew it was time to swap out the aftermarket panhard bar/brace combo for a Watts Link because it WAS the weak link in the entire suspension.
Enter the Whiteline Watts Link...talk about super quiet, super road control!!! I can now attack this stretch of road at max speed w/out white knuckling the steering wheel. What a joy to drive with confidence!!! The car absorbs all bumps with out the rear "twerking"...lol. Even on corners, I find myself adding a little more gas to the pedal and the car remains flat and in control. Just point and shoot!!!
If you have the funds...get a Watts Link first over some cosmetic upgrade for your car...it's totally worth every penny. It is the perfect and only solution for that wild, rear end. Oh, and does it behave like an IRS? Yes. No more side to side...just up and down...lol.
Props to Hillbank Motorsports in Irvine, CA for the correct adjustments to dial in the Whiteline Watts Link...I made the mistake of having the Watts installed somewhere else and there were a few issues...so took it to Michael and Ashton for the expert fix.
I've spent a lot of money on a full suspension overhaul to improve the handling of the Stang, but was never satisfied with how the rear handled bumpy roads.
For example, I daily drive home from work on a long, stretch of bumpy, windy road (posted speed limit 65mph). I always had to hold on to the steering wheel really tight in order to control the car's rear end from bouncing all over the place on this specific commute. I upgraded to Swift springs on my coilovers, and that improved some. I also tried firming up the rear coilovers and that also tamed the "rocking boat feel" a bit, but you can only go so firm until you enter stiff territory and every bump feels like a jolt. Regardless, I knew it was time to swap out the aftermarket panhard bar/brace combo for a Watts Link because it WAS the weak link in the entire suspension.
Enter the Whiteline Watts Link...talk about super quiet, super road control!!! I can now attack this stretch of road at max speed w/out white knuckling the steering wheel. What a joy to drive with confidence!!! The car absorbs all bumps with out the rear "twerking"...lol. Even on corners, I find myself adding a little more gas to the pedal and the car remains flat and in control. Just point and shoot!!!
If you have the funds...get a Watts Link first over some cosmetic upgrade for your car...it's totally worth every penny. It is the perfect and only solution for that wild, rear end. Oh, and does it behave like an IRS? Yes. No more side to side...just up and down...lol.
Props to Hillbank Motorsports in Irvine, CA for the correct adjustments to dial in the Whiteline Watts Link...I made the mistake of having the Watts installed somewhere else and there were a few issues...so took it to Michael and Ashton for the expert fix.
Last edited by magnido45; 12/3/14 at 12:20 PM. Reason: mistype
#70
#71
I like the WL watts link, we always have them in stock as well
We ran this very same watts link on the street, VIR, NCCAR, Hockenheim, Nurburgring and various European back country roads. Never broke on us. That was with Michelin PSS tires.
You can't go wrong with Steeda, at all, I unfortunately don't have any experience with their watts link so I can't elaborate.
We ran this very same watts link on the street, VIR, NCCAR, Hockenheim, Nurburgring and various European back country roads. Never broke on us. That was with Michelin PSS tires.
You can't go wrong with Steeda, at all, I unfortunately don't have any experience with their watts link so I can't elaborate.
#72
Shelby GT350 Member
Need more budget... I think I'll need the watts link soon to keep progressing my car and myself at the road courses.
Todd - sure you don't want to sell the GT and get a GT350? I'll buy your parts
Todd - sure you don't want to sell the GT and get a GT350? I'll buy your parts
#73
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Just ordered the new race MGW shifter. Looks like the final solution to proper shifting.
And I think my Fays2 Watts Link is a terrific, strong, well designed, piece. Does the job very well and a great value.
#74
So I will preface by saying I think adding a Watts Link is a great mod for rear suspension enhancement. But some words of caution based on the perceptions Magnido's post may create.
So, a Watts link while I agree definitely helps with bumps does not solve the problem. Those wheels are still tied together by the axle and the unsettling effect that can have on the rear of the car while corning cannot be negated by a watts link. What you get is less side to side axle movement which helps the car transfer weight and take a set faster...which could lead to the perception that your rear is more planted/stable.
Reality is that the weight transfer happened faster and when you went over that bump it had less unsettling effect since weight was already there. Having driven my car with an without watts link over the same bumpy surface at 9/10ths I can tell you for a fact the rear end WILL still jump around.
Moral or the story: Don't get too cocky or you end up spinning and/or worse.
#75
Shelby GT350 Member
So I will preface by saying I think adding a Watts Link is a great mod for rear suspension enhancement. But some words of caution based on the perceptions Magnido's post may create.
So, a Watts link while I agree definitely helps with bumps does not solve the problem. Those wheels are still tied together by the axle and the unsettling effect that can have on the rear of the car while corning cannot be negated by a watts link. What you get is less side to side axle movement which helps the car transfer weight and take a set faster...which could lead to the perception that your rear is more planted/stable.
Reality is that the weight transfer happened faster and when you went over that bump it had less unsettling effect since weight was already there. Having driven my car with an without watts link over the same bumpy surface at 9/10ths I can tell you for a fact the rear end WILL still jump around.
Moral or the story: Don't get too cocky or you end up spinning and/or worse.
So, a Watts link while I agree definitely helps with bumps does not solve the problem. Those wheels are still tied together by the axle and the unsettling effect that can have on the rear of the car while corning cannot be negated by a watts link. What you get is less side to side axle movement which helps the car transfer weight and take a set faster...which could lead to the perception that your rear is more planted/stable.
Reality is that the weight transfer happened faster and when you went over that bump it had less unsettling effect since weight was already there. Having driven my car with an without watts link over the same bumpy surface at 9/10ths I can tell you for a fact the rear end WILL still jump around.
Moral or the story: Don't get too cocky or you end up spinning and/or worse.
So my question is this- is there an objective performance benefit to adding a Watts Link or is this mostly a driver perception mod?
I recall a similar question when installing sway bars on my first Miata almost 15 years ago...where there may be lap time improvements from better sense of body control and a higher driver confidence, there was technically a loss of overall grip...
...After reading your thoughts, I wonder if this may be a similar kind of thing.
#76
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Thanks for the reality check, ConeBoss.
So my question is this- is there an objective performance benefit to adding a Watts Link or is this mostly a driver perception mod?
I recall a similar question when installing sway bars on my first Miata almost 15 years ago...where there may be lap time improvements from better sense of body control and a higher driver confidence, there was technically a loss of overall grip...
...After reading your thoughts, I wonder if this may be a similar kind of thing.
So my question is this- is there an objective performance benefit to adding a Watts Link or is this mostly a driver perception mod?
I recall a similar question when installing sway bars on my first Miata almost 15 years ago...where there may be lap time improvements from better sense of body control and a higher driver confidence, there was technically a loss of overall grip...
...After reading your thoughts, I wonder if this may be a similar kind of thing.
#77
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Go to Fays2 website for a solid review of a before and after with a Shelby Mustang. He also discusses changes with the Fays roll center adjustment. At NHMS a track with a poor road surface in a few places. The driver is an instructor and racer.
#78
If you pair a watts link with a torque arm and adjustable lower control arms your rear suspension will feel much closer to an independent suspension by eliminating the bind. To do the Watts link by itself as I have done, is an improvement, but the torque arm, adjustable lower control arm (heim jointed on one end) combo will give the noticeable improvement the op is looking for. The only companies that makes such combinations are GrIggs and Cortex. Filip Trojanek, founder of cortex, did not as been mentioned on this forum, work for Griggs. He is a nuclear engineer who was also a racing enthusiasts and began designing and manufacturing parts for him and his friends. Look him up. The Cortex differential mounted watts link is 19 lbs and Used in several different racing series. His garage is at Sears Point/Sonoma Valley Raceway for a reason. I have used the Cortex Watts link on street and several track days (Willow Springs) thousands of miles and not a peep or heat issue. And that includes 2 90+ degree track days. Its pivot is double sheer unlike the Whiteline design.
#79
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I just re installed my Steeda Watts link i bought a few years ago on my v6. I can feel the rear tires 'dig' in on hard turns instead of 'sliding'
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#80
Legacy TMS Member
If you pair a watts link with a torque arm and adjustable lower control arms your rear suspension will feel much closer to an independent suspension by eliminating the bind. To do the Watts link by itself as I have done, is an improvement, but the torque arm, adjustable lower control arm (heim jointed on one end) combo will give the noticeable improvement the op is looking for. The only companies that makes such combinations are GrIggs and Cortex. Filip Trojanek, founder of cortex, did not as been mentioned on this forum, work for Griggs. He is a nuclear engineer who was also a racing enthusiasts and began designing and manufacturing parts for him and his friends. Look him up. The Cortex differential mounted watts link is 19 lbs and Used in several different racing series. His garage is at Sears Point/Sonoma Valley Raceway for a reason. I have used the Cortex Watts link on street and several track days (Willow Springs) thousands of miles and not a peep or heat issue. And that includes 2 90+ degree track days. Its pivot is double sheer unlike the Whiteline design.