You would have noticed it immediately if there was a bind. It's just a good practice to load the suspension before tightening down components.

 

Great info! I'm currently looking into LCA's to reduce the hop and I think these are now my top choice. Also, I would like to do springs but I may wait until next year and do springs/shocks all at the same time. Just curious what stood out about the Ford 1" kit vs. say a Steeda with the 1" front 1.2" rear. I was leaning towards the Steeda but purely because I want to drop the rear a hair more than the front but go no more than 1" in the front.

 

I kinda like that slight rake the car has but I didn't know 1" all around was availible. Now I have something else to think about. LOL

 

The FRPP springs are a nice piece. I took them out of the box and they look great. After my last car, I don't want to go further than a 1" drop. If I can even out the wheel gap just a bit, that's fine with me.

 

i leveled out my f150 and love the look of it- i like to do the same to the mustang. lower it and level it out with no rake.

im liking the steeda option

im just hesitant to rip out OEM thats barely used to put in all new stuff. you spend 40k on something just to redo it lol.

 

So far I have spent like $1100 in mods for a car I don't even have yet, lol.

Guess it's gonna go up to $1300 sooner or later...

In for phase 2!

 

Drew these arms are going on your Boss the day you take delivery

 

What's the bushing situation like on those arms? I'm certainly considering them, and I spend a lot of time on road courses. Once the Koni's for the front arrive and some CC plates, I'm going to be focusing on the next 3 things:

1) Vehicle balance (tuning the bar configurations and shock configurations, which may be changed after 2 and 3 of course)
2) Braking balance and control (lines, pad compounds and testing)
3) Rear end stability (I want either more communication or better confidence in the rear of the car, for now Its certainly controllable and when it comes out I can correct accordingly, but I want more predictability- This will be a Torsen, either watts or rod-end panhard, and probably some arms like these).

Goal is to get the car balanced and settled so that I can focus on driver consistency without having to fight the car at the limit. My longterm goal is to get over to MRLS and run some killer laptimes.

 

Hey Steve are you going to do anything else to make the springs work? I mean besides the panhard bar. Or is that all you need?

 

For now, the springs and PHB are it. Later this year or early next year I'll finish the suspension with the adj. shocks/struts, camber/caster plates, front swaybar, and bumpsteer kit. Oh, and after a week or so, an alignment to make sure the specs are good.

 

Good mods man. I'm still on the fence which LCA's to go with. I've talked with Sam Strano a few times about what I want to do with the car and he wanted me to leave the stock LCA's where they are for now and do those last.

So far I've done the koni sports and steeda sport springs and already noticed a big difference.

Strangely enough, I've never had any problems with wheel hop though after reading some guys experience with it, it could be that I've just never driven my car in temperatures less than 70*F so maybe cold weather makes it worse?

Anyways, I'm considering the UMI LCA's with the relocation brackets.

http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...201&ModelID=35

But sam suggested that I swap the front/rear sway bars first.

 

The improvement occurs in such a way that it can be hard to detect a binding suspension, but when I swapped my old boxed err.. tubular arms out for a new set with a spherical bearing at the axle end, the difference was obvious.

 

If you have summer tires it certainly does, below 40 degrees, summer tires dont work that well.

One of the big reasons for installing them on my car was driven by winter driving. As anybody can tell you in my AO. we get very little snow, some rain, and really cool temps during the brief period others might consider spring or fall and we call it winter (the other season being called its **** hot with a helluva lot of humidity) The car would axle hop like mad over imperfect surfaces requiring very very light throttle and clutch engagement.

I was really worried that the loading and unload would tear up the rear end so I installed the LCAs with relocators and the problem was taken care of except for the worst sections of road.

 

so what is the difference between the UMI and the fr500 ones other than the grease fittings (a plus IMO), maybe tube diameter?, tube wall thickness?, both say urethane bushings, maybe harder bushings? the UMI's are 1/2 the price.

 

Shaun, does the pinion angle have to be reset or are the lengths of the new FR500C LCAs the same as the stock pieces

 

They are the same length as the stock LCAs.

 

They are the same length as stock and bolt in with no other modifications or adjustments needed.

 

Yeah, I think it's safe to say the Delrin is many times stiffer than the factory rubber crap. I swapped all the rubber bushings in an '03 Cobra IRS to Delrin with the idea to put them it in my Notch, and the rubber bushings are incredibly flexible compared to the Delrin.


Any idea what the spring rate is on the P Springs are compared to the stock ones?

 

Steve, have you added the springs yet? I'm curious to hear your impression of the ride while retaining the rest of the factory brembo suspension.

 

Probably not much, but IMO, UMI makes a better LCA with thier urethane/roto-joint control arm. The roto-joint is pretty much just a spherical rod end with the plus of being in a protected housing using a delrin cage for better NVH.