Strut Nut vs Impact Wrench
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Strut Nut vs Impact Wrench
As I wait for the Steeda Sports to arrive, I'm getting my process and tools aligned for the big install. Many of the write-ups I’ve seen cover the majority of the steps adequately, but most of them gloss over the bit about the strut nuts. I have a question.
I’ve been told that an impact wrench will do the trick here, but I only have access to an 18V DeWalt that my Manager swears by. Is this nut torque-sensitive? There’s no conceivable way to measure the torque this wrench is dishing out, so what’s the best practice here? What’s the worst case scenario if this nut is over tightened?
What about the nut on the rear? I was told you basically zip it down until the bushing flattens out a bit. Any advice?
Ideally, I'll have the front strut assemblies put together before the day comes - and I rue that day. I rue it.
TIA
I’ve been told that an impact wrench will do the trick here, but I only have access to an 18V DeWalt that my Manager swears by. Is this nut torque-sensitive? There’s no conceivable way to measure the torque this wrench is dishing out, so what’s the best practice here? What’s the worst case scenario if this nut is over tightened?
What about the nut on the rear? I was told you basically zip it down until the bushing flattens out a bit. Any advice?
Ideally, I'll have the front strut assemblies put together before the day comes - and I rue that day. I rue it.
TIA
Last edited by fdesalvo; 3/14/13 at 01:26 PM.
#2
A Man Just Needs Some....
Just hammer down till the nut stops basically. It's gonna let you know when it's tight. Can't really torque it since the shaft will want to turn. It's usually a locking nut so it won't back off.
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Your avatar: Fooood Fiiiiight!! Haha, where in LA are you from? I grew up on the Westbank off of Barataria Blvd. Thanks for the info.
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If they are adjustable you do not want to use an impact. I used a 13/16's spark plug socket that I ground the inside out to fit a 10mm socket through. That allows you to hold the strut in place while tightening the nut. Since it is 46 lbs or so I believe hand tight should get you pretty close.
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If they are adjustable you do not want to use an impact. I used a 13/16's spark plug socket that I ground the inside out to fit a 10mm socket through. That allows you to hold the strut in place while tightening the nut. Since it is 46 lbs or so I believe hand tight should get you pretty close.
All good now! It's a HUGE change - the mosquitos here don't even bite! I haven't seen one roach in years! It's crazy lol. So used to mother nature trying to bite and sting me.
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Gotcha, you could use an impact then. However I would assume just like any other bolt over torquing can damage it. Check and see what special tool is used for torquing those down if you want to do it by the book.
#11
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Never heard of a special tool for that or even seen the book. Lol.
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There must be a special socket or wrench, unless they are saying you have to torque it to a spec without an impact magically. There are a bunch of strut nut removal sockets online.
Last edited by Brandon302; 3/14/13 at 02:55 PM.
#13
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The removal sockets or for when the shafts keep spinning and you have to hold back on the shaft to loosen them. Or if you don't have an impact.
Last edited by AlsCobra; 3/14/13 at 03:01 PM.
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Not sure how you can torque it to a spec. Would need some type of open ended torque wrench while holding on to the end of the shaft with another wrench. Always used a 3/8 impact until the nut bottomed out. Once it's tight, it's tight. There's no force on the nut once its installed and the vehicle weight is on the struts. Just hammer down and stop before you break it.
The removal sockets or for when the shafts keep spinning and you have to hold back on the shaft to loosen them. Or if you don't have an impact.
The removal sockets or for when the shafts keep spinning and you have to hold back on the shaft to loosen them. Or if you don't have an impact.
#15
I used a wratcheting box-wrench, while holding the stud w/ a socket to prevent the shaft from spinning. Hand tight and counted threads so they match on both sides. To take of the rear shocks, I held the stud with visegrips while using the wratcheting box-wrench. I guess you have to be careful with the rears as some people have overtightened them and damaged the bushing. For the front I just swapped the whole asssembly, using autozone dustboots, frpp bumpstops and Steeda hd mounts.
#17
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It should. The konis should be the same size. Do you have a spring compressor? Just gotta be careful with the ones from autozone.
Last edited by AlsCobra; 3/15/13 at 10:18 AM.
#18
Another trick that works pretty good is using the impact gun on the top nut while holding the shaft with vice grips or channel locks to keep it from spinning. You can TQ it this way too. Easiest with an extra set of hands to hold the channel locks/Vice grips.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Put something between the teeth of the channel lock/vice grip and the strut shaft to avoid scoring the shaft. You do not want that to happen. I used some rubber weather stripping. Worked great.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Put something between the teeth of the channel lock/vice grip and the strut shaft to avoid scoring the shaft. You do not want that to happen. I used some rubber weather stripping. Worked great.
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