My suspension modifications I believe are listed... What I'm trying to figure out is, does anyone know if RELOCATION BRACKETS are necessary to correct a problem in regards to traction? Why I am asking this is because, after the final install, I have noticed that I can spin the tires with the greatest of ease, even with the traction control engaged! Rear grip was spot on after I had the aluminum lower control arms, upper control arm, and 3rd link mount installed. No wheel hop at all. Now after installing the springs, struts, shocks, etc., I'm finding it difficult to get the rear tires to locate some of that grip. It's visibly noticeable that the rear lower control arms are no longer in a neutral position... I'm guessing because of the lowering springs.

My dilemma is this. I DID NOT WANT TO HAVE RELOCATION BRACKETS WELDED ON... if possible. I was hoping brackets were not necessary at all for my performance intentions(street driving and occasional road course outing). I would very much like to hear what the pros out there have to say about this. Thanks.

 

I just did my suspension Saturday, Koni/Steeda sport, Roush upper and Steeda lower control arms. Stock the axle part of the lower control arm was lower than the other end. Now it's opposite which is in correct, i ordered BMR bolt in brackets to correct this.

 

Replacing just the lower control arms is a good upgrade to traction. You don't need to go with relocation brackets or upper arms to reduce axle hop. The stock arms have soft bushings, which allow for a lot of movement. Going with an LCA that has a stiffer bushing will eliminate the movement and shouldn't add much, if any, addtional NVH to the car.

 

This.

After you lower you can see the LCA has a changed angle. I believe horizontal to the flat ground is best. That's where mine is after the BMR brackets. Mine are not welded yet, but they suggest welding them if you are using slicks and or having low 60' times meaning you are putting a lot of torque through a sticky tire that will put stress in the brackets.

Because mine arent welded I check them regularly for bends and to make sure bolts are tight. But I dont take mine to the strip. If i went to the strip I'd make sure they were welded.

 

CHE relocation brackets are stronger - welding not needed.

 

Thanks for the responses. I'll be looking into CHE. Relocation brackets are a must have if you lower these cars, IMO. Luckily for me, I'm not really into hitting the drag-strip, so I much prefer a bolt-on option. Occasional road course track-day, only.

 

Unfortunately you don't get something for nothing. The same geometry change that gives you more traction gives you too much braking on the rear. More braking on the rear as the wheels pull the rear down so there is less weight transfer to the front wheels for less braking there. Good for drag racing not good for road course driving.

 

I think I understand what you are saying. If there was a relocation bracket offered that could just bring the rear lower control arms back to the stock/neutral placement(parallel to the pavement), I would be more than happy. I DO NOT require the other lower attachment points.

 

After putting k springs on this past weekend my car needs these badly. Any benefit with the extra set of holes on the BMR's over the CHE's?

 

Is there any issues with NOT upgrading these over stock after lowering? Or the only thing is worse traction?

John, your going with brackets and new LCAs? What brand are you leaning towards?

 

For regular daily driving, no issues. But, if you plan on giving it gas and having fun then you might consider them. Especially beneficial for the track. Once you've lowered your car the rear lca's are angled upward instead of horizontal, causing the rear axle to not plant the power 100% to the ground. I've noticed since my last set of springs that traction was bad, but now with the k's its even worse. Going almost WOT I won't hook up at all in 1st and hitting 2nd and 3rd the rear will break loose and kick out to the side. Happened twice since the install last weekend and advancetrac kicked in, scared the crap out of me.

I'm going to get the CHE's later today for $108 shipped, unless someone can sway me another direction by then. From my personal research, the only benefit to the BMR's with the extra mounting holes is for track use to dial it in more. I haven't decided which lca's yet. AM has J&M's for $94 with forum discount. To me that's sufficient for my application. I like the BMR ones, but don't see the benefit of spending the extra $40-50 on them.

 

Are you going relocation brackets and new LCAs? Or just brackets?

 

Not sure yet. Brackets for sure though today.

 

Keep in mind that most relocation brackets will make the addition of adjustable rear sway bar nearly impossible. They also hang way low, I've seen pics of the Steeda and it to close to the ground for my comfort.

 

I don't have any plans for a sway bar yet. Between the CHE and others they appear to have a shorter bracket and look thicker. I just ordered a set. If they get here before the weekend I'll get them on on report back.

 

Do you honestly straddle road obstacles that often?

I know I never do. They don't hang much lower than the rear end anyways.

 

I looked at my LCAs today and they seem to be pretty parallel to the ground to me

If I do it I'll be doing both LCAs and the brackets. Maybe CHE bracket and BMR LCAs?

I don't need anymore increase in NVH. Just the panhard bar increased the noise in the car 10 fold.

 

There's a special on S197 for the CHE brackets. I just picked up a set for $108 shipped. I'm leaning towards the BMR lca's too.

 

No but I like to error on the side of caution. Anyway for my application there not needed.

 

You're a member over there? I gotta sign up. I want me a nice set of colored LCAs so they really
Stand out lol. Like red.