My rear sway bar on my '13 GT is clunking and I traced the issue down to the end links. I purchased new ones today to hopefully install in the next day or two.

Are there any tricks to getting them on? I know they are supposed to be a tight fit and have heard they can be a royal pain to get them on the sway bar.

 

Did you go with OEM? Or aftermarket? To remove the factory ones, I used some WD-40 to get them moving, and they slid off 'easier'. They were not going very far, very fast with out it.

If you have the factory ones you might use WD-40 to put them on too.

I replaced mine with Steeda, and the bushing are cut on one side, and the can be opened up some to help them slide on. Once in place I greased them up and bolted them in the end link. Hope that helps.

 

Thanks, I went with OEM, so I'll try the WD-40.

 

Update: After getting the wrong part from Ford twice, I am returning the endlinks for a refund. My car has a stock 22mm (7/8") rear bar, and neither set they have gotten for me even came close to fitting. I just ordered a set from Steeda that I can hopefully put in over the weekend.

 

The Steeda's are nice, and it was an easy install.

 

you have the parts guy put the VIN in when they ordered it? Or if you ordered from a place like Tasca, did you put in the VIN?

Ive been thinking about the Steeda links too, my bar has rust on the ends that'll make even getting the old ones off a royal PITA. Serviceability is a plus since urethane doesn't last as long as OEM

 

I gave them the VIN and they punched it in. The first endlinks that arrived were too small for the bar. They entered the VIN again and it gave them same number. They then ordered what they thought would be the correct part and it was still too small. That is when I gave up and went Steeda. On the plus side, based on the order confirmation email I got from Steeda, they also threw in the main swaybar bushings and no charge.

 

Awesome, do you know if those are for the stock brackets or their billet ones?

 

I'll know when they arrive Friday.

 

Update: I installed the new Steeda endlinks and the clunk is gone. The rear end feels a little more stable as well. Also, that was an extra set of endlink bushings in the mix, not the main swaybar bushings. Still, I am very happy with the results and it was a simple install.

 

i replaced mine with steeda fr and r sway bars (front adj) and the difference is amazing!!

 

My 2021 3.7 came with the RAPID SPEC 101 handling package, 19" wheels, 3.31 gears,,, ,,,,,
Anyway around 19,000 miles I got the dreaded rear clunk noise. . The dealer, under warranty, replaced the sway bar assembly with CR3Z-5A3772*Q
Not sure if this was just an OEM or an upgraded assembly

Well the clunk has returned. @ 90,000 miles. So I guess 70,000 miles is an improvement over 19,000 miles.

Anybody out there have similar experiences with the replacement assembly.

Hershey

PS; car is my daily driver and I change the synthetic oil l every 5,000 miles. Battery lasted 9+ years!
For an extra $100 I was supposed to get lifetime oil changes for free (7,500 mile I would have the oil changed at 3,750 paying every other time).Worked fine -- till the dealer sold out and the new dealer did not honor the deal .....) Turns out it was a dealer deal -- not a Ford Deal. Original Dealer was Freedom Ford in Beacon, NY which is now Healy Ford ... I do not do business with them any more. And my next car will not be purchased from them EVER!

 

Part of your description I'm not quite following.. First you stated you have a 2021 3.7 that had the rear sway bar assembly replaced at 19,000 miles with either the OEM or upgraded assembly, then the clunking came back at 90,000 miles? you then stated your car is your daily driver and the battery lasted 9+ years? If in fact your 2021 3.7 is your daily driver as stated in your post description, it would be impossible for the battery to be 9+ years old in just a one-year old vehicle and I also find it very difficult to comprehend how your able to put 90,000 miles on a 2021 vehicle which is just one-year old. As for determining which sway bar replacement you have, cross reference the replacement assembly and original assembly part numbers.. This should provide whether the replacement is the same as the original or if it's just OEM/upgraded.

As for the free lifetime oil changes, I also had them until the dealer sold.. Just like you said, this is a dealership policy not a Ford policy.. Therefore once a new dealerships takes over, they do not have to honor any of the previous ownership's policies.. Although it does suck, it is what it is nevertheless. At any rate, it would be really appreciated if you wouldn't mind taking some time in clarifying some of your post descriptions

 

I don't really follow all the details . . . but regarding replacing the rear sway bar end-links: it is a lot "easier" to buy a complete sway bar with the end links already on it. Yes this is more expensive to buy, than just buying the end links or the bushings; but it eliminates all the issues of fitment, and makes it a lot quicker and easier to install too. And you can "upgrade" while you are at it, if you need/want that.

I lucked out and got a Steeda GT500 rear sway bar with end links on Craig's List for something like $100, in like-new condition . . . real nice unit, and installation was easy . . . that kind of deal doesn't happen all the time, but it is possible if you are patient and watch the adds . . . and if you can tolerate the clunking in the meantime

 

Bert, I totally agree with your recommendation.. However, Hershey wants to find out if his replacement sway bar assembly is the same as his original unit from the rapid spec 101 handling package or if it was replaced with the OEM/stock assembly. This was my reason for suggesting he cross reference the part numbers for both assemblies to determine if they are the same or if the assembly from the 101 handling package is different or upgraded

 

He's got a 2012, he transposed. Confused me too.

This is the part number in question:
https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/For...R3Z5A772Q.html
And as you can see it's the bar, bushings for the center mounts, and the end links, complete.

However, the end links are readily available from just about anywhere:
https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/For...R3Z5C488Q.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mof-mef296
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255164296005

But to ensure that they addressed any and all sway bar related stuff, they replaced the whole thing, especially at 19,000 miles. That's not right. 70K? Sure, that's right, and common for OEM rubber components.

What you do is get under the car and grab that sway bar. Yank it around. It will move and clunk, and likely at the two inner bushings. You can replace just those:
https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/For...CR3Z5493A.html

The alternative, and one that I'd personally do, and one that Bert suggests too, is to replace the entire setup again but this time with an aftermarket one with polyurethane bushings on all components. The bushings and end links will last longer, however, they will add a small bit of NVH to the mix, and/or change the handling in the back just a little bit as it's quite a bit more stiff a setup. You'll also likely be upgrading to a bigger bar which also tightens things up as well. But you won't worry about that coming back anytime soon. I love having my Eibach sway bars on mine, nary a squeak, and man do I love the flatness on turns. Feels good, feels right. I know, I know, weight transfer... whatever, it's funner.

For what that's worth. Hope it helps!

 

Makes sense to me IMHO

 

Using the Steeda units, I don’t see how installing those alone would be harder than doing a complete sway bar swap.

 

So now that we know Hershey's car is a 2012 and not a 2021.. If he wants answers to his question, he needs to locate the part number of the original sway bar assembly from the rapid spec 101 handling package and cross reference with the OEM/stock replacement assembly CR3Z-5A3772Q.. If the part number for the sway bar assembly from the 101 handling package is different from his replacement OEM/stock assembly, he'll have his answer and if the part numbers are the same, he'll also have the answer to his question as well.

 

If it was replaced with the stock rear sway bar the CR3Z-5A772-Q is the sway bar CR3Z-5C488-Q is the link since that is what mine uses. The front and rear sway bars being bigger was one of the perks of the Performance Package.
BTW my Stock front and rear sway bars are still going strong at 87,000 miles with no clunk yet.