Lowering Parts List
Lowering Parts List
Hey guys,
So i think my next mods are going to be some suspension/lowering upgrades. My question is will i be safe for a while with just eibach sportlines and a panhard bar with the stock shocks/struts. I dont want to drop 1k plus on a complete suspension set-up i just want to lower it without spending an arm and a leg. I figured the springs and a panhard bar would help me achieve that. Eventually, i will go the whole 9 yards and get koni shocks/struts, bmr lca and relo brackets, and a whiteline UCA and bracket. Now if its possible to even run the stock shock and struts with the sportlines do i need to get the gt500 mounts to be on the safe side and MM caster camber plates? Or do i just need the mounts or just the MM plates. Thanks for all your help guys in clearing this up.
So i think my next mods are going to be some suspension/lowering upgrades. My question is will i be safe for a while with just eibach sportlines and a panhard bar with the stock shocks/struts. I dont want to drop 1k plus on a complete suspension set-up i just want to lower it without spending an arm and a leg. I figured the springs and a panhard bar would help me achieve that. Eventually, i will go the whole 9 yards and get koni shocks/struts, bmr lca and relo brackets, and a whiteline UCA and bracket. Now if its possible to even run the stock shock and struts with the sportlines do i need to get the gt500 mounts to be on the safe side and MM caster camber plates? Or do i just need the mounts or just the MM plates. Thanks for all your help guys in clearing this up.
On sportlines I wouldn't run stock struts and shocks. You could get away with doing it but would degrade the life quickly while not being able to dampening the springs. We also just got a whole bunch of Koni STR.T struts and shocks in stock which are only 330 shipped. I'll shoot you a PM on some packaging!
On sportlines I wouldn't run stock struts and shocks. You could get away with doing it but would degrade the life quickly while not being able to dampening the springs. We also just got a whole bunch of Koni STR.T struts and shocks in stock which are only 330 shipped. I'll shoot you a PM on some packaging!
I have 5,000 miles on my Eibach pro-kit springs with stock shocks and struts and it still rides great and stock stuff is holding up nicely. The pro-kit is not as agressive as the sportlines in drop tho so I wouldn't try it. If your willing to go with less of a drop you should be fine tho. I dropped about 1in front and 1.25 rear
If i go with lowering springs, either ford k-spring or sportlines and a panhard bar with the stock shocks/struts would gt500 mounts help with the longevity of the stock shocks/struts or is it useless?
EDIT: Just realized the gt500 mounts wont fit the stock struts. Could i purchase anything that would help "strengthen" the stock shocks/struts without purchasing koni's yet. The bank account is making me hold off on the "full" suspension set-up for a while but i still want the lowered look. Also, if i go with the k-spring which are a 1.5 drop do i need chamber bolts or will i be okay with just the panhard bar and springs. Lastly, is the ford racing jounce bumper kit worth it for 30 bucks or is it not needed? Thanks.
EDIT: Just realized the gt500 mounts wont fit the stock struts. Could i purchase anything that would help "strengthen" the stock shocks/struts without purchasing koni's yet. The bank account is making me hold off on the "full" suspension set-up for a while but i still want the lowered look. Also, if i go with the k-spring which are a 1.5 drop do i need chamber bolts or will i be okay with just the panhard bar and springs. Lastly, is the ford racing jounce bumper kit worth it for 30 bucks or is it not needed? Thanks.
Last edited by joey8; Jun 21, 2013 at 07:34 AM.
On my 2013 Mustang GT, I installed steeda ultra lite springs in the front and rear. I also installed an adjustable steeda rear panhard bar. I simply reinstalled the stock strut mounts in the front. Also bought the camber bolts for the front wheels, but the camber ended up being within spec when I took the car for alignment after installing the new hardware.
Last edited by Pony-Ride; Jun 23, 2013 at 07:06 AM.
On my 2013 Mustang GT, I installed steeda ultra lite springs in the front and rear. I also installed an adjustable steeda rear panhard bar. I simply reinstalled the stock strut mounts in the front. Also bought the camber bolts for the front wheels, but the camber ended up being within spec when I took the car for alignment after installing the new hardware.
Jay, How do I get this price? I like the STR-T's and I'm leaning toward the Hotchkis Sport springs and a J&M adjustable steel panhard bar and the GT500 mounts of course. I'm looking to maintain ride quality but lessen the pitch and yaw of the stock suspension.
Cool. The install is much easier when you buy the shocks and struts. That way you don't need to take apart the stock struts.
Well...taking apart the front struts is more labor. I was charged 300, but I had the entire strut assembly replaced, it took them a lot less time than yours would take. I would think a shop would charge 400-500 for you. If your dealing with an experienced mustang shop, they'll cut you a break if your installing a complete front strut assembly. You might want to call around and check in labor with and without the struts before you decide against new dampers.
Yeah good point, I may just wait a week or two order the koni str.t's and have it installed all at once. Do i HAVE to get the LCA/relo brackets and UCA/bracket asap or could I hold off on that when i get some more cash.
That... you can do at a later date. You don't really need them if you don't have any adverse effects from lowering. You'll have less traction without them obviously, and your suspension geometry will be off a bit, but it's fine for a while. People will tell you that your pinion angle changes from lowering, and they'll say this needs to be fixed, but in my opinion, if your not getting vibration or noise issues, your good, unless you constantly push your car to its limits. The stock drive shaft has cv joints that compensate for a change in pinion angle to a certain extent. If you do an aftermarket one piece driveshaft with no cv joint, you'll need an adjustable uca. There's even a popular drive shaft that markets that because of their cv joint, no pinion angle adjustment is required. I would still do an adj uca and lca/relo's. But you can wait a while if you have to.



