I need some help with the rear brakes on my 2011 GT. I track my car 3-4 times per year (road race course). Car runs great. See mods in my signature. This car is also a daily driver, so I've tried to keep the ride civil. My problem is that the rear brakes are overheating on track days. They smoke and smell after 4-5 laps on the road course. Also, the rotors get really scored. The fronts are okay. It's the rears that appear 'weak'. I use DOT4 fluid, steel lines, and Boss/GT500 SVT pads. Any suggestions? Has any one removed the rear dust covers? Any downside to that? Sorry if this has already been posted - I searched but could not find any. Looking for cheap solution - this is not a race car, it is a street car that visits the track. Thanks!

 

Maybe get some Hawk brake pads on there and or see about some cooling duct work

 

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ok, pads, thanks...I already have SVT pads, and I'm pretty sure the rears handle only 25% of the entire braking load. But I can try to swap pads for Hawk and see. Cooling duct work is too involved...keep in mind, "this is not a race car, it is a street car that visits the track". That's why I'm hoping someone has removed the rear dust cover plates with good results....or there is something more obvious that I'm missing...

 

Maybe modify the dust cover in some way to create scallops that will "mini scoop" the air towards the rotor. I throught of trying to do this because I have the same problem.

 

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Steve...you have the same problem? Great! Just kidding. What I mean is that I'm glad this may be a common weakness, not just my bad luck. I'm no engineer, but I don't think the 'mini scoop' idea will get enough air flow to make a difference. So strange that the rears are suffering like this...? I'm hoping someone on TMS has had this issue, fixed it, and can share ideas. Thanks, Steve.

 

I'm seriously debating on the rotor upgrade kit from Steeda for the rears to see if that helps.

 

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I've looked at that a dozen times - love it. But unless I win the Steeda or American Muscle contests, I won't get it. I don't want to spend a lot or get too involved, since I only do a few track events per year. If removing the rear dust shields has little to no negative impact, that may be my ticket. Free $, easy, no fuss. But I don't know...need more info.

 

Let me know how that goes. I'm going to the Hockenheimring sunday for some laps. I can't wait to see how the new brakes up front hold up. The stock TP Brembo's did okay at Nurburgring last year. The new stuff is way better just daily driving.

I'm waiting on a price from TASCA for the front cooling duct kit.

 

These are the pads I was thinking about
http://www.hawkperformance.com/perfo...t/pads/hp-plus

 

Glenn - Those are the ones that I just installed on my car. Awesome brakes include these.

 

There are two things to consider:

- The track prep pages from the Boss owner's manual suggest removing the dust shields from the rear discs.
- The rear brakes are used by the stability control system. The rear brakes can overheat if you leave the full system on and/or lean upon it too heavily. The rear brakes would be used to prevent oversteer, which could be caused by being aggressive with steering inputs or the throttle.

NOTE: Turning off stability control is not something to be done without very careful consideration. I know of one person who turned it off on his then new 2011 GT, and soon found himself in the wall, despite having much track experience in his previous Mustang.

 

This is very true. I have had some close calls so I leave mine in Sport Mode so that it will still catch me but is much more forgiving.

 

Glenn: Thanks, those Hawk HP Plus may be just the pad I'm looking for. I especially like "ideal for Track Day drivers looking for a high performance race compound that can take the heat of the track and get you home safely without having to change the pads.".
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Chris & Steve: I only use Sport Mode. I'd be scared to turn it all off. Sport Mode for my 2011 is two taps on the Advance Track button on the console. It's pretty generous, I've had the car sideways with it on. It's a long leash.
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Chris: Thanks for the info from the Boss Manual - removal of rear dust shields. Any chance you can scan/send me that info, please? I'll PM you my e-mail address. Also, have you personally done it? Or know anyone who has done it? Any negatives or warnings in the manual?

 

Better yet scan the info and post it here Please

 

As others have said, remove the dust shields, better pads as the Boss pads fade very quickly (HP+ work ok for track and great for street). Also don't be afraid to turn TC all the way off, if you are fine in Sport mode then full off will be just fine. The last thing you want on the track is TC interfering.

 

Or you can download it from Fords website.

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Fo.../12musbs2e.pdf

Look on page 37 for Track Use Preparation.

 

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That is great, thank you.

 

I am an instructor and 14 GT owner.
If your skills build to the point of creating slip there is no way to avoid overheating and eating your rear pads. The sport mode intrudes quite a bit on this car and will keep applying the rear brakes on every corner where slip angle is present. When instructing I can feel this happening and point it out to my students so they recognize when slip is present helping them to know the limits and prepare to turn off the aids with more time behind the wheel.
BTW you should get to this point quite easily. My first time Mustang students are usually progressing quickly enough to be eating rear brakes up by the end of the third 25 minute track session.
The only way to not eat rear brakes on our, less than sophisticated, traction control systems is to turn it off. Or you can just slow down.
The caution above is good advice....turning it off means you are in control of your cars handling without the car electronics to correct mistakes.
Good advice to remove the rear dust covers. No other rear mods are needed beside good track pads. I run NT01 tires and zero rear brake issues with Carbotech XP12 pads in the rear.

 

Nice thread!! I track my car about six times a year. I've experienced the same issues with my rear brakes in the past.
I just added several brake related mods to my car. Ford racing cooling ducts, motol 600 fluid, and carbotech Xp-10 and Xp-8.
I guess in addition, I'll have to remove my brake dust shields and my vertical rocker panel guards.
I have not tracked my car since I purchased the carbotech pads. I've been using the hawk hp. I'm looking forward to more stopping power!

 

Thanks - Chris, Brandon, & Tod. I'm so naïve that I never considered that TC or SC would work those rear brakes so hard. No wonder I've been baffled for a couple years now. My fronts (4-pot Brembos, 14") are fine. but the rears get killed after just 4-5 laps. So strange with fronts taking 75% of the work. Now it makes some sense, the TC/SC system is constantly intervening.
Brandon - slow down? Now way, man! That's what HPDE is for, to get better and faster!
Here's my three-part plan: (1) remove rear dust shields; (2) swap Boss/SVT pads for Hawk; (3) turn TC/SC all the way off.
Thank you!