Not perfect, but MUCH better shifting at high RPM. Even snicks in/out of gear better with everyday driving. Not like my Audi TT did, but I'm happy to not shell out for another shifter.

 

Just installed mine this weekend also and I like it. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd at high rpms was almost impossible. My Boss is supercharged so the shifting problem from the remote shifting design is worse the more power you make but I am impressed with how well it works so far for me. I did not notice any added nvh that I can't live with. After replacing the bushing I also installed a DSS aluminum driveshaft.

 

Since you are aware of the remote shifter design, didn't know if you have heard of the CHE K Member Brace with Engine Torque Limiters? I can only imagine the problems with a Blower.

I had one installed last summer and since then have not had any 1-2 lockouts under heavy load. I also have the MGW which makes the 2-3 perfect. I also have the Whiteline Tranny Insert.

If you are interested; here is the link:

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-208.htm


ps. which supercharger?

 

Did you modify the bushing first (as some have done) or install it as is?
Is there any reason I cant use ramps to do the install or do I need to jack up the whole car? I have some race ramps and was going to do an oil change this weekend anyway so I thought I would knock this install out as well

 

I always thought this was the way to go.

(though the '11 up require some fitment)

 

Read about the mods others have tried. Decided to use it as is. I didn't notice enough noise or vibration to mess with it. It was already on the lift for an oil change but it should be able to be installed with ramps only. Got to love spring in Nebraska! 76 yesterday, 38 and rain/snow mix today. Crap.

 

I have looked at the aftermarket k members but I have not seen that brace. For now it seems like the bushing is doing a good job of solving my problem. I also have the MGW shifter. Thanks for the onfo.

 

I am under the impression that MGW will fix the notchyness/lockouts/miss-shifts after reading many positive reviews and install video. This Whiteline Bushing on the other hand, seems to achieve similar goal.

Obvious question here would be, do we need both. Everyone who has MGW installed treat MGW like some sort of holy grail shifter. Being that, will you benefit any by adding Whiteline Bushing to it?

 

I have the MGW and still miss the 2-3 shift under WOT shifting, so will be trying this bushing this spring. Even with the missed shifts, I think the MGW was worth the upgrade, the solid feel that you get when replacing the whole unit is something you can't get just by upgrading the rear bracket only.

 

I installed the MGW first and now have the WL bushing. I really like how the MGW shortened the throws and made the shifts more solid. The WL bushing makes it even better, and I have not had a single lockout at high rpm since I installed it (which the MGW and removal of clutch return spring had not cured).

Now that the WL bushing is available, I would probably try that first and then consider upgrading the shifter if you wanted an even better shifter feel.

 

Thank you for sharing your experiences! Now I know what to do... get them both lol.

During my research, I came across added NVH when WL bushing is installed. What do you guys make of this mod:


Also what do we gain out of replacing the braided clutch-line?

 

I find it hard to believe you have ever been at WOT, given how you granny'ed around at track attack!

 

If you search further you will see that some people completely cut out that center prong with the 2" hole in it, others made the 2" hole and others are happy with the stock unit. I am going to cut out the hole as there seems to be no downside to doing it and once I install this bushing I will be too lazy to take it back out and make the modification unless the NVH is completely unbearable! So, I think I'll cut the hole and do the install and see how that is.

 

Exactly how bad is the NVH anyways that people are forced to do such mods. I mean, I had my rear-view mirror replaced under Warranty because of rattle. As long as its not annoying I can probably live with it?

Arousing question is that will the piece last/hold long enough since it just got a big hole in the middle (or cut out the center for that matter)...?

 

Other than a very slight extra vibration in neutral when blipping the gas, I haven't noticed any additional NVH. And even that might be all in my head!

 

 

The notchy shifting that I have noticed is directly related to trans temp. When the car/trans is cold it is the WORST shifting car I have ever driven. When it worms up it works really good. I understand that it is much improved with a fluid change. I have not changed my trans fluid yet but I will be.

 

Hmm. What about this clutch-line replacement? Doesn't that have something to do with fluid?

 

The people who seemed to have issues were complaining of vibration through the floorboards at worst.
I'm not too worried about the part holding up. If it fails I'll be willing to spend another $30 (and this time maybe not cut the hole) and replace it. Or, you could fill in the holes on the stock bushing with a product (cant recall what it is right now) and it does the same thing although you "ruin" the stock bushing in that scenario.

 

Gee thanks... I'll try to follow your lines next time Parnelli !