Upgraded Gauges for LS
The LS gauge pod is too far out of the drivers view and is pointed to the rear, not the driver. While it might offer a cool factor to the car and it's rider's, it's not very functional for the track. I need something large and immediately in front of me for the track. Gauges at the track have to compete for attention with other cars, apexes, and flag stations....no time to look over at the center of the dash.
I have experience, but I am not a track expert. I have only had the one day tracking the LS so far when we were testing, but I do not remember having any difficulty scanning the pod. It seemed much easier than most gauges I have seen mounted in dash, even if they were straight in front of me. I found it much less distracting to scan the horizon than to glance down. IMO having added color recognition at a glance, or a flashing warning, would be easy to pick up, even in the center of the dash. i guess I will get a little better feel this week at Miller.
I agree with you on that. Kendall and I had discussed the pod if we could not get LS Mustangs. I was worried because I had looked at a few used PJ mustangs and the dash pods were loose and flopped around. It is solid in the LS but I would be hesitant on mounting one with a standard Boss. I like your idea about in front, maybe a pillar mount? Not exactly in front but certainly visable.
The white Boss ROCKS, 4pipes! Yeah, to each his own on the gauges. The pillar mounts are cool because they are so close - but I haven't really driven a car to see if they interfere with frontal view. The pod is cool and really quite legible with these gauges - quite frankly MUCH more legible than the OEMs. As Apollo points out, the color change to a flashing red will get your attention. Each gauge also has a peak hold feature that is retained even through power off cycles until you physically reset it. If I'm paying attention to my driving, I can wait until later to see peak gauge points!
Thanks Kendall. Hey you're not related to Tommy are you?
The white Boss ROCKS, 4pipes! Yeah, to each his own on the gauges. The pillar mounts are cool because they are so close - but I haven't really driven a car to see if they interfere with frontal view. The pod is cool and really quite legible with these gauges - quite frankly MUCH more legible than the OEMs. As Apollo points out, the color change to a flashing red will get your attention. Each gauge also has a peak hold feature that is retained even through power off cycles until you physically reset it. If I'm paying attention to my driving, I can wait until later to see peak gauge points!
The white Boss ROCKS, 4pipes! Yeah, to each his own on the gauges. The pillar mounts are cool because they are so close - but I haven't really driven a car to see if they interfere with frontal view. The pod is cool and really quite legible with these gauges - quite frankly MUCH more legible than the OEMs. As Apollo points out, the color change to a flashing red will get your attention. Each gauge also has a peak hold feature that is retained even through power off cycles until you physically reset it. If I'm paying attention to my driving, I can wait until later to see peak gauge points!
Thanks for the info, I am really up in the air on this one. I have a friend with a LS coming and maybe I can get a better idea but still street driving is a whole other world then being on the track, I doubt he will let me run a few laps to get an idea how hard it is to read them
Apollo and I have some experience together with the challenge of reading gauges while driving. We recently installed a unique boost gauge/controller in his GT because I kept insisting to know boost pressures when at 200MPH and up!
That's the Mojave Mile event on a runway at the Mojave airport. The venue is a standing start - accelerate for 1 mile - then your time crossing the mile marker is captured. Apollo's Ford GT is the current record holder for the event as the "fastest car".... including dedicated race cars, etc. His record is 226.4. This Heffner/CoolTech twin-turbo GT is a docile, street-driven, AC & MAC stereo-equipped car... that has measured rear wheel HP in excess of 1000 and over 900 ft-lbs of torque!
That's the Mojave Mile event on a runway at the Mojave airport. The venue is a standing start - accelerate for 1 mile - then your time crossing the mile marker is captured. Apollo's Ford GT is the current record holder for the event as the "fastest car".... including dedicated race cars, etc. His record is 226.4. This Heffner/CoolTech twin-turbo GT is a docile, street-driven, AC & MAC stereo-equipped car... that has measured rear wheel HP in excess of 1000 and over 900 ft-lbs of torque!
http://www.mojavemile.com/
I couldn't find a general Tech thread so I hope anyone searching will find this post.
Re: the Elite gaugues, u DO NOT need the dimmer hardware.
I installed the Elite gauges thru a very well known Mustang modifier here in Ontario, Canada (DaSilva Racing).
They did the install according to instructions & hooked up the white wire which allows dimming - however if u program the gauges to be dimmable according to instructions - they will be dimmed (setting by regular headlight dimmer) when headlights oin but will not light when the headlights are off (or in DRL mode for Canucks).
I did not know this & did not order the dimmer module & after trying to drive @ night in "Full ON" mode w/ what seemed like 3 flashlights pointing at your face (& illuminating the backseats incredibly well), got pissed when I found that I apparently needed the module.
So I called Autometer Tech & the first fella more or less told me tough luck - if I didn't want the dimmer from Autometer that I could buy another manufacturers.... oh & that it was well known that LED gauges need a dimmer module...
This didn't sit well w/ me so I called back & got an appropriately educated Tech person.
Short story long, the new Elites have firmware in them to allow dimming w/out the dimmer module.
Power up holding the right / Peak button, press again to show white illumination / Full-On, press Peak again and hold, & press and release Warn / Left button to program dim setting.
Has 4 dim levels.
I run lowest.
No need to spend $ on the dimmer, I guess their lack of updating instructions simply is making them $.....
Glad to have called back & met a decent Tech chap.
Guess my ignorance in not oredering the module paid off.
Hope to save someone $ who doesn't know.
-Rod
Re: the Elite gaugues, u DO NOT need the dimmer hardware.
I installed the Elite gauges thru a very well known Mustang modifier here in Ontario, Canada (DaSilva Racing).
They did the install according to instructions & hooked up the white wire which allows dimming - however if u program the gauges to be dimmable according to instructions - they will be dimmed (setting by regular headlight dimmer) when headlights oin but will not light when the headlights are off (or in DRL mode for Canucks).
I did not know this & did not order the dimmer module & after trying to drive @ night in "Full ON" mode w/ what seemed like 3 flashlights pointing at your face (& illuminating the backseats incredibly well), got pissed when I found that I apparently needed the module.
So I called Autometer Tech & the first fella more or less told me tough luck - if I didn't want the dimmer from Autometer that I could buy another manufacturers.... oh & that it was well known that LED gauges need a dimmer module...
This didn't sit well w/ me so I called back & got an appropriately educated Tech person.
Short story long, the new Elites have firmware in them to allow dimming w/out the dimmer module.
Power up holding the right / Peak button, press again to show white illumination / Full-On, press Peak again and hold, & press and release Warn / Left button to program dim setting.
Has 4 dim levels.
I run lowest.
No need to spend $ on the dimmer, I guess their lack of updating instructions simply is making them $.....
Glad to have called back & met a decent Tech chap.
Guess my ignorance in not oredering the module paid off.
Hope to save someone $ who doesn't know.
-Rod
Hi Rod,
Thanks for the tip. I just want to clarify. So, after you have your gauges programmed the way you described - they will illuminate during the day at the programmed level (you chose the lowest level) and then when the lights of the car are on the brightness is controlled via the dimmer switch? Thanks to clarify if my summary is correct.
Thanks for the tip. I just want to clarify. So, after you have your gauges programmed the way you described - they will illuminate during the day at the programmed level (you chose the lowest level) and then when the lights of the car are on the brightness is controlled via the dimmer switch? Thanks to clarify if my summary is correct.
I was thinking of add a roush like air vent gauge to monitor oil pressure (or oil temp)
....I think an active & accurate oil pressure is the most important for track use..
comments or recommendations:
any suggestions for a 2 1/16 oil pressure gauge?
anyone seen a split 2 1/6 gauge? IE oil pressure top and oil temp bottom
....I think an active & accurate oil pressure is the most important for track use..
comments or recommendations:
any suggestions for a 2 1/16 oil pressure gauge?
anyone seen a split 2 1/6 gauge? IE oil pressure top and oil temp bottom
I was thinking of add a roush like air vent gauge to monitor oil pressure (or oil temp)
....I think an active & accurate oil pressure is the most important for track use..
comments or recommendations:
any suggestions for a 2 1/16 oil pressure gauge?
anyone seen a split 2 1/6 gauge? IE oil pressure top and oil temp bottom
....I think an active & accurate oil pressure is the most important for track use..
comments or recommendations:
any suggestions for a 2 1/16 oil pressure gauge?
anyone seen a split 2 1/6 gauge? IE oil pressure top and oil temp bottom





